iestyn.lewis

Here's my take on it - it is open above the bumper, but there's not a huge space there. The air dam is Home Depot's finest. The steel bumper and struts were removed and replaced with a new lighter framework.

Yup, which is why I don't really want to post a step-by-step guide here. All the info about what everything is, what it does, and how to remove it, is in the FSM and the Haynes manual. If you're going to do this, you should know exactly what you are removing, what the drawbacks are going to be, and what other systems are affected. You shouldn't just follow a guide that says cut here, snip here, plug here. The only benefit of any of this is an engine compartment that you can sit and stare at with a beer in your hand. The car pollutes like an SOB and runs crappy until it warms up. It does NOT accelerate any faster or have more peak horsepower or torque.

Here's one: http://www.zdriver.com/forums/showthread.php?t=19937 You can remove all of the following, and the car will still run, but with various diminished functionality. If you have smog checks you can't do any of it, and technically you're not supposed to remove any of it anyway. Carbon Canister (surrounding area will smell like gas after you shut it down hot, gas fumes in the engine compartment). No performance benefit. EGR Vacuum line - this will shut off the EGR permanently. You can also remove the EGR entirely, but you must make a block-off plate. No performance benefit. Injector cooling fan - you probably did this already. No performance benefit. TPS - throttle position switch. May cause idling or WOT issues. AAR - you will have a slow idle when cold, may stall out. No performance benefit. Idle speed adjustment - see above. No performance benefit. PCV system - underhood will smell like blowby if you have any. No performance benefit. BCDD lines - actually removing unit may require taking manifold off and making block off plate, not sure. No performance benefit. Ported vacuum system, including TVV and all lines. Move distributor line to manifold vacuum. Adjust base timing accordingly, remove 12V advance if desired. No real performance benefit. Coolant lines that run to the AAR and throttle body. Cold Start Valve - May cause extremely cold starting problems. No performance benefit. When you're done, you should have 3 vacuum lines from the intake - FPR, dizzy vac advance, and brake booster. There's really nothing to be gained, except a worse-running engine until it warms up, and then a smellier one. That being said, here's mine - removed a/c, cruise, all of the above, and made a new EFI harness, custom plug wires and electric fan:

Well, I went to an electric fan yesterday, just for grins. Can't say as I notice a whole lot of difference. It's been in the 50s and 60s here, so the fan really isn't necessary most of the time anyway. When it kicks on at idle, the engine really feels it, there's a definite hiccup as the alternator adjusts to the new load. But, it does work, when it comes on it brings the temp down nicely. Not much in the way of "seat-of-the-pants" difference, though. Sorry to hijack your thread, PPK. Nice results, I want to get mine dynoed sometime soon - I have the same sort of setup, stock EFI but everything taken off that isn't absolutely essential.

shady, oz - does pulling the clutch fan off add much? If your fan clutch is working, shouldn't the fan be disengaged when not needed anyway? And when it is needed, your electric fan may be taking as much or more power than your mechanical fan, through the extra current draw. I've been thinking about going electric, but not sure of the benefits.

Stock, everything removed that I could get my hands on, redone injector harness and custom ignition wireset.

Front and rear bumpers and shock absorbers were removed. The back bumper was replaced with a piece of angle iron, the front one required a bit more fabrication. Then enough was cut off of the side bumper cover panels to allow the covers to be moved in to bolt up to the new bumpers. I wouldn't recommend it unless you're not worried about fender-benders or other mishaps. While the original (heavy as hell) bumpers won't help you much in a real bad crash, they do keep little taps from harming the rest of your bodywork.

Hi guys, here is my 83 NA with new flush bumpers and front end rework. I've had it for about a year now. Just put in a new dizzy - working vacuum advance is a wonderful thing.

Thanks for putting this info here, I'm about to install a stereo myself. Nice having what you need to know in one place.

Hi 280zex, hope you don't mind, I'm going to cross-link your other thread here, where you compare both dyno numbers and driving impressions: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=118803 The linked thread is the only thread that I've seen so far with a direct head-to-head between EFI and the Arizona intake with Holley carb, using both dyno numbers and seat-of-the-pants driving impressions. Thanks for writing it up.

Your videos make a very persuasive case. The tailpipe one, particularly, made my hairs stand up when you floored it the first time. That's a great sound. I'm going to start planning/budgeting for a conversion. The philosophical issues have been done to death on plenty of other threads, but I'll put in my reasoning - I have a beater Civic that gets 35 mpg to do all of my responsible grownup stuff in - the ZX is to get away from that, and learn new(old) things. I now know as much about 1970s L-Jetronic fuel injection as I care to know, and I want to take another step backwards. I don't have the space, knowhow, or inclination to do a turbo swap / V8 swap or build a stroker, so this is what makes sense to me for $600 or so. Hopefully I'll have something to report soon. Thanks!

Thanks everyone - 280zex, will look forward to your dyno results and other tuning you've done. I think I'm going to have to go ahead and do it - if/when I do, I'll be sure to document the process. ozconnection, what is that thing? It looks evil...in a good way.

rdelat - I saw some larger pictures of your 280ZX somewhere but cannot remember where. What you've done with the front and back is exactly what I've been envisioning. I know it's probably all custom fabrication - is it metal or fiberglass, and do you have any plans to sell the panels? Thanks.

Hi - I have read most if not all of the threads on the Arizona ZCar / Holley 4 bbl conversion. I am hoping someone has done this configuration and can offer me their experience: 1983 280zx NA L28E - F54 block, P79 head. Perfectly running FI system, gets 26 mpg in mixed driving. Smog/emissions not a concern. I'm interested in doing a 4bbl conversion mainly for giggles. I have NO interest in SU's or Megasquirting, and I'm aware that my stock FI system is probably better in almost any conceivable driving condition. (street only). If you've changed from working FI to 4bbl carb on a "late model" 280ZX, I want to know - do you regret it, or is it enjoyable? Thank you!!