ransomnotes

Ok, according to the Air/Fuel gauge, I am running super lean under boost. That narrows some things down. Arrgh!

I replaced my fuel pump and Fram filter by the tank yesterday, and my pressure at idle improved a little. Still having the same boost problem though, but now it's started happening almost every time I boost. Not just WOT anymore. It bucks like hell at WOT too. I pulled and checked all of my plugs. Gapped them a little bit tighter at .038. Double checked wiring, and vacuum lines AGAIN. The car was running awesome for a while, and this problem just popped up out of the blue. Frustrating me more and more. I have my Air/Fuel gauge installed now, so I'll be monitoring it on my way to work. Is there anyone around the Lawrence Kansas area who would be willing to help me out? Usually I enjoy having one of the very few Datsuns in town, but now I'm feeling lonely

BTW I have the original 73 bumper trim piece that goes behind/inside the bumper. I'm not going to use it. Would be easier than trying to fit the other piece you have.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/92688-zcc-bumper-conversion-bracket-issue/ Don't know what brackets you are using. I used the ZCC conversion brackets. I managed to get my 73 bumper to fit pretty flush without messing with the bumper itself. Cut a little off the highlighted points you see in that thread, which allowed me to push the bumper back another 1-2 inches.

No POV. I have been wondering if this is fuel related, and maybe the problem is the old fuel pump. I have an extra one I could try. Fuel pressure is normal at idle, but I have no way to check it under boost. It has been taking longer to start up lately, where as it used to start quick every time. Injectors are only a couple months old, as well as the FPR, and fuel filter. I just picked up an Air/Fuel gauge, so I'll hook that up and see what I get. It's a narrow band, but better than nothing.

NGK BPR6EY gapped at .040

Seems like it could be my wastegate sticking, but it moves back and forth by hand just fine. I haven't removed the downpipe to inspect it further. I'm using a new aftermarket gauge but I don't remember the brand name. Had to replace my old $30 one a couple months ago.

I've been dealing with this for a few months now, and have not been able to narrow it down to an obvious answer. There is no rhyme or reason to it. Some times at WOT I get a strong and steady 10psi, while other times I'm getting a louder than usual "whoosh" of air sound on the drivers side as power drops off. Like I'm coasting, and just blowing air. It will still read 10psi on the boost gauge while boost drops off. Doesn't matter if it's at take off, or from a rolling start. Some times boost is there, some times it just drops off. Every time I think I have found the problem and the car runs really good, it starts happening again. I've pressure tested my intercooler and piping. Even taken off individual sections and tested. Each time with more than 10psi. Holding strong. Tried two different BOV's thinking that was the problem. Currently using a GReddy type S recirculated. I've removed my intercooler piping, and gone with stock J-pipe (with BOV). No change. Was running 10psi with manual boost controller. Removed that and ran stock boost. Still leaking. Tested the wastegate actuator, which opens fine under pressure. Disconnected the wastegate rod and made sure the arm swings freely. It does, and the rod is straight. I've also pulled and checked the ECU connections. They are clean and tight. I have no exhaust leaks. The car runs great except for WOT. Idles good at -21 vacuum. What else?.... Turbo has no shaft play, and spins freely. Wastegate and BOV get their signals from the intake. BOV is vented between AFM and turbo. Boost gauge is T'd with FPR signal. I don't know what else to check, so hopefully someone can point me in the right direction . I don't post problems often. I can usually figure it out with time, but my brain is starting to hurt.

OOPS! Wrong section. Feel free to move this. I would take this if I had the room. Figured I'd pass it on to someone who is looking for a cheap L28et. http://kansascity.craigslist.org/cto/1830907499.html

Picking up wheels this weekend. Thanks Spork! Still looking for front Air Dam, and one piece rear Spoiler.

I'm looking for either a set of 280zx Swastika wheels, or Enkei Mesh wheels. Preferably close to the Kansas City area because I'd rather not deal with shipping costs, but it depends on what one is asking for a set. They must be straight, but physical appearance isn't a big deal. Honestly, I'll consider any 15-16" 4x114 lug wheels. I'm just tired of my 14" slot wheels. Also looking for a BRE style front air dam, and one piece rear spoiler. madawkward@gmail.com

Ok thanks azcarbum! I might do what you suggested, and cut a bit of that area. Or, go a different route. I still have the original 73 bumper brackets, and last night I cut them so they will fit where the old bumper shocks used to mount. I just have to trim a bit more metal off, and drill new mounting holes in the 73 brackets. A friend of mine is going to help me with it tomorrow. If everything lines up right, it should be a much stronger alternative to your brackets, and still give me the ability to adjust for the best fit. I'll still keep your brackets though, just in case I go with a carbon fiber bumper on down the road. Thanks again!

Well I guess I'll be paying someone to modify these brackets then. That, or have some made that bolt to the old bumper shock location. I've done some mock-ups, and I think I could make some just by cutting and bending some steel. My fabrication abilities are fairly modest.

Damn, that's what I thought. Same with the 73 rear bumper?

Here in the white is where it's hitting. I'd rather mod the bracket, or have new ones made than cut into the car. I have about right at an inch that I could go back, but the conversion brackets won't allow. I had to hammer and bend this bracket back toward the front of the car to get it to fit in the existing hole. That's another reason why I'm thinking about deleting that bracket, and running my bolt through the bumper hole. Is that how most people bolt the sides up?

Not sure what you mean Two80z4me. You can see in this pic the bracket allows plenty of adjustment here. But in my third pic you can see where the problem is. There's no more room for it to be pushed back. I could grind or cut down the bracket in that spot, but that would make it a heck of a lot weaker. And even then, I wouldn't be able to push it back as far as I'd like.

73 240 bumpers on my 78 with the ZCC conversion brackets. I have the brackets pushed back as far as they will go, and the bumper still sticks out too far. Not sure if this has to do with the brackets, or because the bumpers are from a 73. I would be happy with about an inch further back. I think that's all I can get away with. Completely flush would be ideal. Anyone else have this problem? You can see the bracket here won't go back any further. I also don't like this gap. Thinking about cutting that little bracket off, and just running a bolt all the way through. Keep in mind I cannot weld, but I have a friend of a friend who might be able to help me out.

Do some more searching and you'll find a guy who fabricates conversion brackets. Here's a link to the store, but the brackets are currently unavailable. I would email them and see how long the wait is. I had to wait about a month, but it was worth it. http://www.zccjdm.com/store.php?seller=azcarbum&pd=1933484 I've heard of people being able to mount to the existing shocks, or taking the shocks out and using the original 240 brackets. My bumpers are from a 73 and have a different front bracket than the earlier 240's, so the easiest way I found was to order the front conversion brackets, and use the original rear 240 brackets. The conversion brackets also allow you to adjust the bumper position for the tightest fit.

Wow, cool to see other Z car owners who daily drive bimmers! Here's my e30. 91 318i, 135k miles with black interior and leather seats. It's a rebuilt salvage, and not in the greatest condition, but not too shabby for a $900 daily driver. I had to get a couple new rotors, calipers, pads, add a simple ground wire to fix the power windows and heater, and throw on some matching wheels and new tires. Had to go with 14's for now. Just need to find two more 15's, and do some vacuum line cleanup under the intake. Otherwise, it's been a great daily driver. Very fun car. I'd much rather work on the Z, but I can see the bimmer eventually becoming another project. I love the look and how it handles, and it's already pretty peppy, but an engine swap is a VERY tempting future endeavor. Until then, I plan on installing some larger injectors, a bigger AFM, performance chip, and better flowing exhaust.

Follow Wangsman's response to your thread over at zcar. Search his threads too. He knows what he's talking about when it comes to running a turbo with N/A ECU, harness, etc.

No problem. I have to agree, I did get very lucky on that haha. I went off of two small Craigslist size pics, and talking to the guy on the phone several times. Something just seemed right about it, so I got a friend to help with a flatbed trailer and drove the two hours just to look at it. It was a gamble, but after getting there and seeing it in person, I had to buy it. Finding my turbo donor car was almost as much fun, and I got very lucky on that one too. Only had to go a mile from home for that one. Just means it was all meant to be . I would look more in Kansas. Wouldn't be too long of a drive, and I see them all the time in Wichita for good prices. Even Kansas City. I hardly ever see any in Missouri, unless it's around KC. Maybe St. Louis every once in awhile. I avoided Oklahoma and Arkansas in my searching because most were priced a lot higher than up here. I don't know why. Not a Z but here's a 510 in Wichita http://wichita.craigslist.org/cto/1425896230.html Nebraska would be a hell of a drive for you, but here's a Z that's typical of the price range around here. Seller would probably be asking around a thousand more if it had engine, tranny, and title. http://lincoln.craigslist.org/pts/1431775753.html

You're in OKC? We probably look at a lot of the same Craiglist adds. I'm in northeast Kansas, and do "Datsun" searches at least twice a week. Mainly looking for parts cars, but I'll check any Datsun add. Lost out on a 510 up in Nebraska not long ago, and you NEVER see those around here. Not that I needed another project. I'll let you know if I see something good up around here. Keep looking and don't get discouraged or rush into anything. I looked for a couple months, and just when I was getting bummed at the lack of good cars, I found one up in Des Moines Iowa. $1500 for a Black Pearl that had been garaged for six years. The guy didn't even realize it was a Black Pearl. I took one look at the original owners manual in the glovebox, compared vin to vin, and paid the guy with a HUGE grin on my face. I did have to bring her back to life, which involved a fuel system cleaning, brakes, tune up, fluids, etc., but all in all it only ended up costing me around $2000 total including tags. Already have done a L28et swap, and just picked up some 240z bumpers. Obviously, I'm not concerned with keeping her stock . I think I'm only sitting at around $3000 now though.

I also did this, but with a Bosch BMW AFM. Tried modifying a Cressida circuit board, and the BMW, both with bad results. Figured I'd give it a try. Put the N/A Z circuit in and it worked fine. I've always had good luck finding big BMW AFM's that, besides the circuit board, are exactly like a turbo 280zx AFM. Same size, same bolt pattern. I've only found one Cressida AFM at a pick-n-pull, and it was tiny like an N/A Z.

Looking for a good Turbo air flow meter for an 83 280zxt. PM or madawkward@gmail.com

Thanks, I'd be happy to help. Like I said, I read all of the swap guides out there, but the majority of them didn't apply so much to a 78 or 83, and confused me even more. I tried to decipher some areas in the 78 and 83 FSM's wiring diagrams, and it did help a bit, but I have a hard time reading schematics. I also made a binder with all the information I could find, and my own sketched diagrams and checklists. Being on a time schedule I just focused on getting the car running. I will go back and clean things up, and make any other necessary modifications later. The things that helped me the most were this thread containing Zeerari's 82/83 guide, FSM's for both cars, labeling both harnesses, taking before pics of both cars, and these diagrams I found Black/White from coil connector to Black/White at ignition switch. The other connection made here at the ignition switch can be confusing because there are three solid yellow wires in the same plug with the Yellow/White wire (that goes into other harness up to coil). The one you want to connect to the ignition switch is to the right of the Yellow/White. You connect that Yellow wire to Black/Yellow at ignition switch. Remove the plug containing the brown and green wires that require 12v constant from the 83's black fusible links box, and then you can just plug that right into the empty socket mounted on your relay box like this Remove Brown and Green plug and plug into here on relay box for 12v constant There are two Black/White, one Black, and one Brown wire coming from the green EFI Relay. You connect the Black/White wire below the Brown one to switched power. The white plug pictured here was not used. These are just some of the things other guides I found didn't elaborate too much on. This stuff combined with the link provided should help a lot. All you need to custom wire to get it going is the coil, EFI relay, main power, power at ignition switch, and grounds. I'm sure if I didn't have the whole donor car this would have been a lot harder.