DuffyMahoney
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Posts posted by DuffyMahoney
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Something fun I have been working on! I really want drive by wire on my 240z. But figuring out a location for the actuator has been tough to say the least. I don’t want it hanging over the intake.
This is a 100% bolt in adapter featuring a BMW 6 cylinder actuator and a 350z pedal. This will attach to stock linkage and drive my ITBs. Hopefully it works! The pivot arcs a far bit, so that might not work and the pedal mount might flex too much? Time will tell.
This would allow me modern cold starts, any sort of progressive pedal movement I could want. Full idle control, traction control, valet mode, cruise control and way easier tuning.
We 3D scanned the pedal area and the actuator to mock it all up in CAD!
All of this is 5axis cut out of 6061.
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So, sticking throttle blades once warm are a known problem with ITBs. Stronger return springs could help.
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2 hours ago, madkaw said:
Looks like the same pistons I run with the dish . Smart man to put arrows on the pistons. You won’t put one in the wrong place like I did - lol.
That's Andrews work!
Pistons are eagle, sold by rebello. -
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Who told you to do 20 degrees at idle? What is all in timing? Like 7k rpms?
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Man that looks good! Glad you are happy! You are the first to get the coils up and running outside of myself
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I chat with the JMS owner all the time, I will just say that a LY isn't off his list to do potentially. I am curious on what his from scratch DOHC head will look like.
I tried to talk him into a cost effective DOHC head, but I don't think that is their plan.
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If you ever do coilovers again, I would highly suggest having them out of the car for the welder. He would have been able to do a better/ easier job of it.
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All ITB test fitment is done. Cable mount is perfect, everything is smooth and actuates as good as I hoped. Now time to bolt it down, cut the cable to length and finish some wiring.I lined up the MZR haltech tuner to help me with my tune. It should be interesting to see how good he can get it, especially with my balance bar design and throttle angle.Will the snow melt so I can drive it soon? Probably not.
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EFI hardware said 45s are still plenty for my 3.1L. I got the pro version which is a taper bore, so technically the butteflies are 47mm.
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You should try one of my progressive throttle cams first, it might help the street aspect some.
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Finally got the linkage sorted on my ITB. This is without an over head bar return spring (I will add tonight). The system is very smooth and returns strongly. Pretty stoked.;
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18 hours ago, Zetsaz said:
I will take you up on that!
Small update: Slowly purchasing little things here and there again. I'm not happy with my LS coils slowly going out and even less happy with my bracket. Granted the placement is better than most i've seen. I REALLY don't like how high up on the valve cover the Protunerz one is. Mine normally goes where one of the heater hoses is, but I'm retaining stock function and moved it.
Between those problems and having to buy new coils soon I chose to upgrade to Nissan coils. Got the bracket from @DuffyMahoney and ordered the Hitachi coils from RockAuto. In a few weeks I'll hopefully get a chance to work on it again.Sweet!
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Super neat that nissan is doing this. I am curious if they will mass produce them or do a limited run.
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2 hours ago, MONZTER said:
In the past when I would bench and smooth out casting lines in parts you would always see the smooth ground areas in contrast to the original casting finish. What I would do is blast it with a heavy 36 grit aluminum oxide to add even texture on the entire part, then Vapor hone it to brighten it up. It looks great, almost as if it were originally cast like that. So something to consider vs just glass bead if you decide to smooth out any of the maching marks and go with a more classic cast look.
Got any pictures?
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1 hour ago, MONZTER said:
Looking good to me, lets see some detail shots of the machining that you are not happy with. Are you going to bench it down? Whats your plan for filters?
I would send the intake off to a vibratory polisher, then glass bead it heavily, then vapor hone it.
No filters for now, but eventually I will get that figured out.
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Well I got my cnc intake! Honestly surface finish isn’t what I was hoping for. But will be nice with some effort. I think it’s almost too much bling. I might go satin glass bead on the intake. It has pretty heavy machine marksBalance bar bolted on exactly as I planned, with 6mm banjos. The injector angle looks spot on as well.Pretty happy with it overall. Next rods need to be shortened and I need to figure out a progressive throttle location on the overhead bar and a cable mount location. Then moving the ecu temp sensor.
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11 hours ago, Derek said:
I really wish things would swing back towards the forums. I can't tell you how many times I know the answer to or could add to a post on FB but I don't since it really has no longevity. I always felt like I was adding to the overall knowledge base when I posted here. I can go on and on but I really hate it.
100% agree, facebook sucks
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Joe's 1972 240Z adventure
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
A little tip that I learned years ago. If you plan on stuff being painted or coated, the use of anything in a rattle can should be avoided. It's just a extremely poor paint, and your just causing yourself more work in the future.
When I have parts I need painted, I have a local smaller auto body should that sprays black parts for me with high end 2 part paint. I drop them off and as long as I am not in a hurry, he sprays my parts when he is spraying anything black. Or I have the powder coater do the same. I think the 60% gloss black powder coating looks almost identical to stock Nissan black.