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DuffyMahoney

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DuffyMahoney last won the day on August 13

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    www.mickduffs.com

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    Sandpoint, ID

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  1. Not terrible, but I had to buy 5.
  2. Wow is all I can say 464f5f2c-e7c2-4dd9-affb-6d86115b0fea.mp4
  3. New ITB intake is getting sent off to China to CNC cut! This fixes a few mistakes on the first version and also gives me the stock J-hook pivot as an option. It will feature a bolt on banjo balance bar and ideal injector angles. It's slightly longer then the last version as well.
  4. A little tip that I learned years ago. If you plan on stuff being painted or coated, the use of anything in a rattle can should be avoided. It's just a extremely poor paint, and your just causing yourself more work in the future. When I have parts I need painted, I have a local smaller auto body should that sprays black parts for me with high end 2 part paint. I drop them off and as long as I am not in a hurry, he sprays my parts when he is spraying anything black. Or I have the powder coater do the same. I think the 60% gloss black powder coating looks almost identical to stock Nissan black.
  5. Well it works. But the firewall flexes too much, next I will try to mount to the pedal box which doesn’t flex at all. I also want to keep the arm movement on the same plane. Currently actuator is up and down and bell crank is left to right. IMG_2655.mov
  6. Something fun I have been working on! I really want drive by wire on my 240z. But figuring out a location for the actuator has been tough to say the least. I don’t want it hanging over the intake. This is a 100% bolt in adapter featuring a BMW 6 cylinder actuator and a 350z pedal. This will attach to stock linkage and drive my ITBs. Hopefully it works! The pivot arcs a far bit, so that might not work and the pedal mount might flex too much? Time will tell. This would allow me modern cold starts, any sort of progressive pedal movement I could want. Full idle control, traction control, valet mode, cruise control and way easier tuning. We 3D scanned the pedal area and the actuator to mock it all up in CAD! All of this is 5axis cut out of 6061. IMG_2641.mov
  7. So, sticking throttle blades once warm are a known problem with ITBs. Stronger return springs could help.
  8. That's Andrews work! Pistons are eagle, sold by rebello.
  9. My 3.1 is going back together! 48035565-3f87-41e9-8969-6a890e052731.mp4
  10. Who told you to do 20 degrees at idle? What is all in timing? Like 7k rpms?
  11. Man that looks good! Glad you are happy! You are the first to get the coils up and running outside of myself
  12. I chat with the JMS owner all the time, I will just say that a LY isn't off his list to do potentially. I am curious on what his from scratch DOHC head will look like. I tried to talk him into a cost effective DOHC head, but I don't think that is their plan.
  13. If you ever do coilovers again, I would highly suggest having them out of the car for the welder. He would have been able to do a better/ easier job of it.
  14. All ITB test fitment is done. Cable mount is perfect, everything is smooth and actuates as good as I hoped. Now time to bolt it down, cut the cable to length and finish some wiring. I lined up the MZR haltech tuner to help me with my tune. It should be interesting to see how good he can get it, especially with my balance bar design and throttle angle. Will the snow melt so I can drive it soon? Probably not.
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