ciavola

Keith, I may take you up on the call. I ordered the mount and insulator today from Brian at TechnoVersions. this is the same bushing your talking about correct. (PIC of bushing)

what about using the bumper stop that comes with the RT Mount? bad? as opposed to the top mounted one? also is the RT with upper mount a straight bolt up on a 70? no fabricating? I also received an email that 72 and later used different strap brackets that allowed the stock strap? Thanks for the info..

If the RT mount will solve my problems, I will buy one, but which is the correct way to mount this? I have read different things about turning the M-bar around. reversing the bottom mount moves the differential towards the back of the car. I have never heard any mention of removing the strap all together in all the stuff I have read on any sites. Can any one confirm wich way the stock mount mounts. the wider side towards the back or the front?

I am restoring a 1970 Z , I am doing a R200 swap, I bought the M-bar, Control arm Hanger, Front Crossmember, and the r200 differential from a 280z. I am having an issue figureing out the mounting procedure. I installed everything and the strap that goes on top of the differential wouldnt fit over the bolts that holds the insulator on the front differential crossmember. so I figured it was incorrect so I dropped everything back out, reversed the insulator because i thought I had it backward( I had the bigger part towards the front of the car) so I flipped the insulator around and the strap now fits, but the differential is a half an inch from the mustach bar. and the drive shaft doesnt fit now.(too long) I can not figure what part of this I have incorrect. Ive searched for info and found basic info, but nothing that address these issues. Chris

Hello All Any special wisdom on replacing the driprail after painting has been compleated? special tool for clamping back down. would rather find out now before I bend or break something. Thanks Chris

I am looking for the left and right hard brake line( the lines that connect from the T to the rubber lines)

i moved it a tooth, it stopped suttering but will not run unless the choke is on.

I checked the clearance again was ok. Compression also ok

OK, Not sure why this made a difference, I move the distributer shaft over a tooth and reset the distributer to center. it stopped sputtering and with the choke on it will run 2000 to 2500 rpm. it will stay running now but will not idle or run at all with the choke off.

I Checked all the above recomendations and nothing. Does the distributer drive look like it could be a tooth off?

Ok, The car has basically sat for a year while I moved. looking for any help I can get. The car will not idle consistently. I can play with the choke to get it to start. it will then run(sometimes) it will usually start climbing in rpm's. even if I play with it and can get it to idle at 1200 rpm, it will occasionally spit throuh the carbs and will still die eventually. very inconsistent. Again the carbs are from ztherepy, basically everything is new. if it was just a carb issue. you would think I would be able to get it to at least stay running. I cant seem to find any obvious vaccume leaks. Any Help is Greatly appreciated. Chris

I am looking for 16 or 17" rims for a 240z, havnt seen anything new i have liked.

.

I am looking for drivers or passangers side lower door hinge.

Tony, dont believe i described this right, it not the main pin that holds both sides together. Its the small rivit type pin by the spring on the lower hinge

Has anyone had to replace the pin on the drivers door hinge with the spring. seems like it would be a common problem. Chris

Has anyone ordered the rear taillight gaskets from black dragon? if so how was the quality?

I am looking for the metal retaining hold down ring for the inner shift boot from a 72- 78 240\260\280z.

would love to but no brakes yet, I put a zx master and still have to bend the lines.

found the issue, the condenser that came on the rebuilt distributer was defective. now i cant get the car to idle below 1200rpm...

double, tripple , quadrupple checked all things timing. I reran the wires just to be sure. I am almost to the point of pulling the carbs an intake off just to check the gaskets. i am using a intake\exhaust gasket from MSA, stock intake, 3 into 2 headers. everything on the intake has been plugged off. I only know how to check for intake leaks if the engine were running. Used no sealer on the carb gaskets or intake.

Fuel Pressure is 3-4 pounds, I have checked the timing at least 20 times, started at center, retard, advance. have spark, unless I am doing it wrong. when the crank is on TDC (this is the first big timing mark correct? ) the lighter chain links is on the 1 mark on the cam timing sprocket, distributer rotor is pointed at #1. when it initialy ran for those few minutes it was very uneven, but did respond to the throttle. shouldent there be some vaccume when cranking it over?

Thanks for the replys, It is a new battery, new distributer, Points, cap , rotor, litterally new everything. Today I found compression in all cylinders is 120, ther is NO vaccume when I am turning the engine over. From what I have read there should be 5-10 of vaccume? when I could get it running for a couple seconds. using the throttle had no effect. also some of the plugs were blackish semi wet. Steve at Ztherepy told me to change the plugs. I did that today, didnt seem to have an effect. A massive vaccume leak? out of ideas.

I am restoring a 71 240z. I just put the motor back in after the rebuild , basically everything is new or rebuilt, rebuilt SU's from Z therepy. new coil, rebuilt distributer, rebuilt fuel pump, the car started and ran badly for about 10 minutes. turned it off to address an oil leak, went to start it back up and it wouldnt start. I noticed the fuel filter was only half full, should it be full? I checked the lines from the tank , I thought maybe it was sucking in air from the rubber lines at the tank. also bypassed the tank and had the fuel filter draw gas from a gas can. still didnt start. I adjusted the distributer timing from full retarded to full advance. checked for spark, its there but doesnt seem that stong, it is only stock coil and distributer but the car ran for 10 minutes before so thats probably not an issue. there is 6 and a half volts on the coil's positive side. not sure where to go at this point. the engine acts as if its going to start but does not. fuel, spark, timing? Chris

81-83 280xz master Brake cylinder wanted, non turbo(I was told theres a difference)