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About SilverSurfer

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    United States, Virginia, Boones Mill
  1. SilverSurfer

    Help with Air Flow Meter Issue?

    I have not. I am not a mechanic, so can you point me in the right direction to check for vacuum leaks? I am pretty sure I can check the fuel pressure by hooking a gauge into the nipple (don't know the proper term here) on the fuel rail. Is that correct? When I first got the car, it was stalling a lot. I took it to a mechanic I trusted. He ended up replacing all the fuel lines and vacuum lines. The rubber part that connects the AFM to the rest is also brand new and everything is tight. So, I don't think there are any leaks. The car also has a new fuel pump and filters. In any case, why would there be such a big difference between the two air flow meters?
  2. Hello! I have a 1977 280Z stock 5-speed manual transmition. The original AFM seemed like it was having some issues. The engine was running rich (you could smell it and I was getting horrible gas mileage), at idle the engine did not run steady/consistent (it revved up and down sort of like ooooOOOOooooOOOOoooo ... if that makes any sense ... and the tach would move with it below 1000 RPMs to slightly about 1000 RPMs), and, lastly, sometimes when going slow in third gear the car would hit a point where it would jerk until you either sped up or slowed down even further. I had a spare (used) AFM and swapped it out today. The first thing I noticed is the car idled smoothly/evenly right about about 1000 RPMs. This is the best this car's sounded since I've had it. So, I took it for a ride. That's when I ran across a different problem. The car seemed to do great when driving in the city (no jerking when running slowly in 3rd gear), but I ran into a problem when I went on the highway. The entrance ramp I was using is slightly steep (uphill) and the car chugged (moved sluggishly). I could barely get 'er over 35 MPH and so I could not get up to highway speed. Once on the highway I was able to get her going, albeit slowly. Once up to speed, she had a lot more pep. I am assuming that she is now running a tad lean? But I am no mechanic. Not by a long shot. Obviously the new AFM made a difference, solving a few issues and introducing a new one. So, where do I go from here? What should I check? And how do I tweak this? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.
  3. Hello! I am looking to purchase new wheels for my '77 280Z. I am running 205/55R16 tires (and they are virtually new), so I will be going with a 16" rim most likely with a 7" width. Here is my question: What is the max offset that I can use? I would prefer zero offset, but the wheel selection at zero offset is limited. Before I really start to shop, I would like to know what my ranges are for offset, if possible. I already know the bolt pattern, etc. Thanks in advance for any help!
  4. SilverSurfer

    Hello and Please Help with my 280Z

    Okay! Here is what I've noticed the past few times I've run the car. I don't know if this helps at all, but I thought I would add it into the mix. When I first put on the inline filter, I had filled up the tank to full. The car ran great for about an hour (on the highway and off). Then, as gas was used over time, I started to run into more and more trouble with the engine starting to run rough ... not continuously, but periodically. The more gas I used, the more I hit these stuttering and stammering spots (including a few times when I stalled out). Since my gas gauge is not working, I am using the tripometer to estimate how much gas is being used. In each case, the troubles start to increase after about 70 miles of gas use. When I get up to 95 or more miles, the car starts to have frequent stutters, especially under load (i.e. on the highway going over 50 MPH). Now, just to be clear, these miles aren't all put on the car at once. I am not driving 100 miles at one time, the car doing great for the first 70 and then slowly degrading as I drive. I am driving a few miles here and there (going to the store, going to pick up a part, going to visit a friend, or just going to take the car out on the highway). Judging by the fill-ups and how much gas I had to put in compared to the tripometer, I am averaging about 15 MPG. So, after using about 5 gallons of gas (from a full tank), I start to get stutters periodically. After using about 6-7 gallons, the stuttering becomes a lot more frequent, making it hard to take the car anywhere. Does this provide any useful information? Yes, I am planning to get a gauge to measure fuel pressure. I just am waiting for my next paycheck to do so. Then I should be able to provide some additional information.
  5. SilverSurfer

    Occassional Engine Stutter - '77 280Z

    Well, I replaced the inline fuel filter (the one between the tank and fuel pump) and this is what I found (and after only about a half tank of gas!): I would say I definitely need to clean the gas tank.
  6. SilverSurfer

    Hello and Please Help with my 280Z

    Well, I think we know what the stuttering/stalling issue is with the engine: I replaced the inline fuel filter (between the tank and fuel pump) after only running about a half tank of gas. I definitely need to clean out the tank.
  7. SilverSurfer

    Occassional Engine Stutter - '77 280Z

    I have. None of them in my area (Roanoke, VA) do the work any longer. I either will have to do the work myself, send the tank out to a place that still does it, or get a new tank. I think I will opt for the first option. There seems to be plenty of tutorials on how to do this.
  8. SilverSurfer

    Occassional Engine Stutter - '77 280Z

    Hello steve edrington. Thanks for your help and advice. I appreciate it. Yep, I need to get the tank cleaned and sealed. It's next on my list (next to finding someone local that can/will do the work! They seem to be getting rarer ... at least in my area).
  9. SilverSurfer

    Occassional Engine Stutter - '77 280Z

    Hi Seattlejester, I had mistyped earlier. The rust is not in the fuel filter in the engine compartment. That is a metal fuel filter and I cannot see what is in it. What I had meant was there is a small amount of rust flakes in the inline fuel filter that I installed between the gas tank and the fuel pump (the fuel pump is in the rear wheel well, as it should be). This inline fuel filter is of the clear, plastic type, so I can see what is in it. The spark plugs were replaced by a mechanic and the distributor checked. When the car is running, which is most of the time, it runs very smoothly. In fact, I had taken it out on the highway and, when no one was around, ran her up to 100MPG with no issues ... the Z still wanted to pull with no issues. It purred along smoothly as all get out. No shaking. No stutters. So, I don't think there is an issue with the spark plugs being swapped, etc. When I get a chance to install a pressure gauge and to crawl under the vehicle to check the fuel pump part number, I'll let you guys know what they say. I live in Virginia. It has been both cool and warm (near 90). Today has been very cool ... low 60s and overcast. I took the car out and it ran fine, then stuttered and stalled. The car would not restart, but stammered. I waited about a minute and the car fired right up and ran the rest of the way home with no issues. This is the same behavior it can have on a very hot day, so it does not seem to be temperature related. If I run the car at idle for a while, shut it off and then start it back up again, it starts up just fine. No issues here. The only time starting the car is an issue is if it stutters and stalls out. Then it just needs to sit for a moment and then it starts just like there were no issues. To me, this seems like something is interfering (rust or water) and letting it sit for a moment allows whatever it is to settle to the bottom or move on, etc. I plan to run through this tank of gas, fill it up, and apply some more Heet and see where that takes me. If I get a chance (whether permitting before things get too hectic here), I will try to drop the tank (before filling it up) and see what we have. I've never done this before (dropped a tank), so this should be a bit of an adventure.
  10. SilverSurfer

    Wheels/Rims for 1977 280Z

    Thanks, Phantom.
  11. SilverSurfer

    Occassional Engine Stutter - '77 280Z

    Sorry. That was my mistake. I meant FUEL FILTER not pump. The fuel pump is indeed in the rear wheel well.
  12. SilverSurfer

    Wheels/Rims for 1977 280Z

    Hello SleeperZ. I already have performance tires for the 16" rims, so this is not an issue for me. The converters push the wheels/tires out quite a bit. This can cause issues with the tires possible rubbing on the fender when at a sharp turn. As importantly, it adds a vibration at certain speeds. I had this tested when I had the front end aligned and the mechanic said he could not get rid of the vibration (at certain speeds) as a result of the adapters.
  13. Hello again. Eventually I plan to get new wheels/rims for my 1977 280Z. The previous owner had put adapters on it to go to 5-lug rims. This is a bad idea. So, I want to remove the adapters and go to 4-lug rims. However, the tires are brand new (from when I bought they car) and are pretty nice - Yokohama Advan S.4 205/55r16 ... so I want to keep these tires. 16" rims look sweet on the car, too. From my research, it appears the original bolt pattern is 4x4.5 (114.3mm). When I look for new rims/wheels, is there anything I need to keep in mind other than the bolt pattern (and, of course, the fact that I am getting 16" rims that will accommodate my tires ... 5.5-7.5" wide, 16" rims)? Reading some of the older threads that I ran across (back in 2003, etc.) people were saying that there weren't many wheels that would fit these old Z cars. But a quick Google search seems to show quite a few wheels with the correct bolt pattern. Am I missing something? Also, what about offset?
  14. SilverSurfer

    Occassional Engine Stutter - '77 280Z

    Thanks, seatlejester. I will try to respond to each point with what I know. While it has misfired once that I am aware of, the car stutters when it loses speed. It sounds and behaves like a car running out of fuel. The vehicle has had all new fuel lines installed, a new fuel pump (the one in the engine compartment), new injectors and new pig tails. So, I don't think it is anything in the actual lines (i.e. varnish in the lines). But there is a small amount if rust in the inline filter. Once the ground is dry I am going to swap out that filter for another one (I keep a spare in the car). The vehicle has all new spark plugs. I've not tested the coil. The volt meter on the dash is staying consistent (about 15) when these episodes happen, from what I recall, though I will pay more attention the next time it happens.
  15. SilverSurfer

    Hello and Please Help with my 280Z

    Good news! Internal and external turn signals are working! Bad news is I am not sure why, actually. After having the front end aligned, and the steering wheel adjusted (it was a custom wheel the previous owner had installed and was all crooked), the turn signals just started working again. The mechanic who had worked on the car previously (the one that did all the engine work) had also done something in that area because the horn had not been working. I am wondering if something, like a connector, had been lose (and maybe still is) and when they adjusted the steering wheel it knocked it back into place? Dash lights still are not working, but I have not had sufficient time to work through the harnesses, etc.