sonomaz

If someone tells me how to past pics on a thread, I will put some up tomorrow. Paul

My 240Z is mostley stock. The package I bought was the Tokico ILK252 from JDMWorks13 on eBay. The box came factory sealed with 2 front BZ3015 struts and 2 rear BZ3016 struts. The springs have the number on them and I will retrieve that tonight. When I inserted the BZ3016 strut into the strut housing (strut tube), the body of the strut (not the shaft) protruded about 1.5 inches. the only way that gland nut was going on was if I stretched it 1.5 inches! I searched this site and read half of what I found (which was a lot) but it focused mostly on the springs. I carefully read all the material that came in the box and looked at the Tokico web site several times (tokicogasshocks.com) I finaly decided that if they were going to fit The spacer needed to be cut. Measuring everything, strut, strut tube, spacer, gland nut, I finaly decided to cut 1.3 inches from the spacer. After, the strut fit perfect. The gland nut tightens against the strut body and there is a 1/10 inch gap before the gland nut bottoms. So... what do people think?

J I should have included this before. My car is a late 72 (built in Aug) 240Z. It has the original six. The suspension will have the enrgy suspension poyurathane bushing kit along with the Tokico struts and springs. All else will be stock. The springs are marked with a part number followed by an F or an R which I'm assuming means front and rear. I didn't notice a length difference but if there is it is very little. I did notice the front springs are progressive. I did some searching here and discvered that the Tokico kit does use progressive springs up front. The progressive wind is very slight and not noticable unless you compare the fronts to the backs. I intend to install everything as intended to find out how it works. It may be awhile, I'm guessing February to be on the road agin (after six years!) If anyone else has installed this kit, would you please post here whith what you think? Paul

Hi gang, J and I have been discussing our installation issues of the kit we got from JDMWorks13 on ebay. I thought it was time to include the rest of you. Sorry for the long beginging but here is what was said so far. I have cut and pasted so down is in chronological order. Quote: Originally Posted by sonomaz J, I also recieved my struts and springs from JDMWorks in Aug and started installing them two weeks ago. I started at the back and had some issues that I was able to solve but wanted to know if you had the same problems. If you wouldn't mind drop me a line at blank@blank or here and let me know. Thanks, Paul aka SonomaZ Quote: Originally Posted by J__ hey watsup, i have yet to install them. as im redoing all the undercoating and sandblasting repainting the suspension parts.... but what kind of problems did u have? thnx -J Quote: Originally Posted by sonomaz As you noticed the rear struts have extension tubes attached to the bottom. The problem I had was they made the strut to long and I ended up cutting 1.3 inches of the extension. I'd be curious if you run into a simillar problem. Also the rear springs went on without having to compress them. They are slightly loose whith out weight on the wheels. This does not concern me that much but I haven't had it on it's wheels yet so I'll see how much it squatts. I would feel better if someone had done this installation already and could impart there great knowledge upon us. Paul hmmm i can imagine it happening. what car do u have? i have a 78 280z apparently the struts are diff length i believe 280z is higher. (or the other way around) i was told u didnt have to cut the "spacer" on the strut, but i will see as soon as i find a vice to be able to take out the gland nut.... i dont image it being a problem buy cutting though. my main concern is for the shocks to not bottom out.... did ur springs come with F & R on them? mine are marked and i believe the rears are longer than the fronts maybe u had the backwards? (i knw i assumed the longer ones were on the front because my other car and every other car ive seen is like that) i was suggested with this setup from another member. he said hes friend has these setup for drip and is very happy with them without cutting anything. i didnt want to go coilovers because i didnt want to lower it too low to save the hastle of sectioning. but ross (modern motorsports) told me ppl havent been happy with jdmwerks illumina/tokico setup ... but i thought he was just trying to sell me his products so it didnt worry me that much. i will put mine in and let you knw how they turn out. also keep me updated on ur progress too. thnx and good luck!

8) Thanks, Guys. I think I will keep it on and watch closley. It is a new motor so I'll be adjusting the valves in the next 500 miles. Paul

Time to exercise the Brain. '72 240Z, original block and head rebuilt to stock level. The block number matched the ID plate on the side of the engine compartment so I didn't have the heart to do a swap. Anyway I did upgrade the camshaft to a Crane version and the cam is gun drilled and crossed drilled through the lobes for oiling. The stock head uses the spray bar. So, do I ditch the spray bar and block off the holes or do I leave it and hope the cam does not take all the oil from the spray bar, or does it matter? By the way I did have the head oil supply hole at the top of the block opened up to 0.125 inches. :

Well according to California Smog laws, if your car is a 74(maybe 73?) or older you don't have to run a smog test. But be forwarned to transfer title of any car, i.e. you buy or sell it, it has to pass smog! AND the SELLER is responsable for all the smog equipment, NOT the buyer. So if you are going to keep it go for it.

You should check out aftermarket Cam manufactureres web sites for basic cam timming information. Here is a URL to Crane's http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=2 In here they describe basic rpm and the effect of cam advance and retard. Paul

I think it's a big job but can be done in a weekend. If you've gone 180K on it I would start to consider and entire rebuild and do it then. A straight forward check is to follow the repair manuals guide for adjusting the cam timing sprocket for a streched chain and if you are in the last hole of adjustment you know it is close to time. Paul