kerrys914

Opps.. I read it wrong.. I have the T3 bolt on camber plates, sorry can't help with the GC camber plates.

I only have the template for the large cuts (not the slots). I think the newer way to cut the tower is to cut a larger middle hole for the gold block (at least that is what I did) I'll dig it up

Doesn't this only apply to before any preload is added to the spring. I can see that.

Still unclear to why a adding 1" of preload raises the car if the # force of the preload is less then the corner weight. Interesting. I appreciate this discussion.

Thanks guys. I guess the part I am getting confused on is this: It seems like adding preload doesn't raise the car up at rest. It just compresses the spring before the car's weight is applied. In the examples above: 0" of preload and 2.4" of compression due to the car's weight is 2.4" of total compression at rest OR 1" of preload and 1.4" of compression due to the car's weight is still 2.4" of total compression at rest. OR 2.4" of preload compression and 0" of compression due to the car's weight is still 2.4" of total compression at rest. In all examples above the car's height will be the same at rest.....correct? So preload doesn't change the ride height

Let me know if this is right. Once the threaded collar nut reaches the point of zero (0) spring preload, the collar nut position no longer raises the car any higher by raising the collar nuts position (compressing the spring). The opposite is also true, the only way a car is lowered is to have the threaded collar nut below the point of zero (0) spring preload. To add more height (after zero preload is reached) the top mounting point of the strut (where it attaches to the car) needs to be changed by adding a spacer or other means. Thanks and I hope I am explaining this well..

What are you looking for? The cut template for the bolt-on or weld-in plates?

I have some coilover pieces left from my recent 280z conversion. They have zero miles on them if you are a DIY kind of guy this might be something you can use and complete (need to buy some parts) I have: 4 threaded Collars 4 springs (175#/150#) 2.5" dia $175 for all You need to source out the missing parts but they are available

Thanks. Lucky the strut is not fully extended. I have more travel left. I run out of collar before I get to that point. New linger collars are on the way and I am looking for some new/used springs.

Looking for two 225# and two 250# springs. 10" long and 2.5" dia. Thanks Kerry.herr@gmail.com

Thanks.. very interesting. I bought my setup off someone and I guess I know why I got a good deal I am looking at 225# front / 250# rear with new longer collars. I hope this will get me sitting where I need to. Any idea who (what application) would use 150#/175# springs? I would love to sell those but am not sure who would use them.

I thought the threaded collar was intended to raise and lower the car. Sounds like you are saying the collars are not designed to lift the car up by tightening things up. Thanks for clarifying this for me

Thanks guys.. Well I have new collars coming which are 6" long (I have 4" long collars now). I am looking into new springs too to replace my 150#/175# setup. I only removed about 1.5" from each strut so I believe my strut tube length is fine and hope the issue is due to the soft springs, short threaded collar, and small OD of the tires (23") The other thing which I think is contributing is I removed the stock insulators from my setup (I am running camber plates). I ask around and everyone said I did not need to compensate for this by moving the collar perch up.In hindsight, I think I should have raised the collar 1-2" to account for the removal of the insulators.

I sectioned my 280z and based on what I did it looks like you did cut too much out of the rear. I cut about 1.5" out of the fronts and the rears (strut tubes) as I am using the same strut cartridge (MR2) all the way around. The 280z rear strut tube is much longer then the front so to compensate for this I added a 3" (about) aluminum spacer which goes into the strut tube first. This makes the inside dim of the rear strut tube the same as the front strut tubes (since I have the same cartridges in the front and rear). If you have the tube pieces you cut out of the front and rear you could reweld them back in???? kerry.herr@gmail.com if you need any help

Thanks, so the 60 series isn't too tall?

Not too many tires to get me up to 25" on 15"

Yep.. I think you are right.. I am running 23.1" diameter now I guess I need something around 25" to raise it 1" and close the gap 1" Bummer I have 15x9" rims.

Not sure what is going on. I sectioned the struts per this site (about 1.5" taken out), 6" collars, 10" 150# springs. To raise the body of the car I am threading the collar on the sleeve UP (which compresses the spring) which lifts the body of the car. Unfortunately I have the collar 6" + up from the perch and the car's frame rail is still too low (1.5" or so above the ground). The front control arm is below parallel (which I read is bad) If I use a jack to raise the car up the height I think is good the wheel well gap gets too big. Confused

You need to make sure you have the gland nut to match your struct cartridge to hold things tight. Also, put oil in the strut tube AFTER you insert the strut cartridge :)

KYB #365064 should work too at all corners

I am running the same struts at all 4 corners. Car is not on the ground yet so no comment on ride quality yet

Let me know what you have for sale Cheers

I am doing an install and have a few questions... 1. Where does the steel camber plate spacer go? (similar outline to the purdy camber plate) 2. Has anyone installed the finished plate on top? 3. Any photos of the cuts and install? 4. I used the existing bolt holes (the OEM 3) to align the T3 plate Thanks Kerry kerry.herr@gmail.com

I am in the same position..I am running KYB's at all corners and need 280z gland nuts as the ones in the box are too small in diameter. The OEM ones are very different and will not work without machining, Will the part numbers above work for KYB strut cartridges?

Ha.. I think it was just the photo angle.. That looks to be the rear sway-bar end (disconnected). I thought it was something attached to the frame..