McDoogle

that car looks awesome

keep the white headlights and get yellow foglights. I like the look of the yellow lights when im driving late at night but i think the white lights look cleaner. Or yellow brights if thats possible

Well they appear to be the same size so im going to just swap the two ends and call it a day. The car is an early 260z but has an l28(n42) in it. Im assuming the whole driveline has been swapped from another car. How can i tell what differential i have?

im referring to the halfshaft on the bottom. The one above it is from a 240z. Is the other from a 280zx?

Checked the service manual and it said "see hybridz.org". Took me forever to realize how to get this thing out and when i did get it out i realized idk what its from.

Why cut springs? id rather just get the kybs and lowering springs. Thanks for the input guys

Thanks Mr. Beer

I already looked at the service manual and i saw that diagram. Doesnt say what the letters STAND for. I also didnt see the post I talked about shown in any sections nor diagrams of the service manual. Thanks for the reply though

the little thing in the fn plug is a non issue. it was never in the way and i took it out since

heres the alternator. The post in question is the one at the top of the picture

hey guys ive been having issues with my no power to my alternator. I was looking into replacing it but as i took it out of the car I noticed that there was a second post with nothing attached. I dont know whats suppose to be hooked up to this post however and when i looked around i havent seen other alternators with this post. Its located under the little black cover. Theres also the letters E, F, N, and A on the alternator. Do you guys know what the letters stand for and what should be attached to this post?

ya

"Sometimes you just have to think real hard" I dont like you right now. I really hate trying to read that service manual. I never understand what im looking at/what they mean

So im restoring my 260z and needless to say it needs a lot of work. Its got engine problems, tires showing wire, brakes that dont work, dents, peeling paint, registration needs to be paid, and of coarse a very blown suspension setup. Im trying to take care of the engine problem atm, next I will be ordering steel brake lines and maybe pads and rotors. Im collecting body parts and prepping them for paint but even though i can do that myself the paint is so damn expensive. The tires will be last because i may get bigger wheels and dont want to buy two sets of tires. Needless to say this is an expensive project and Im trying to find inexpensive routes to get everything done because im just a young dude living in california were rent is stupid expensive. I wont know how much i have to spend on suspension until the time comes but by the looks of it im gonna say tokico illuminas are out of the question. I was thinking of getting kybs and using lowering springs on them as a temp since i want it a little lowered. it looks like i can get the kybs for like 180 vs the illuminas being around 650. Saving $470 is HUGE for me. I would likely still save to get the illuminas but i pretty much cant drive the car with the suspension the way it is and i want to get it on the road. The other option I have thought of but i dont know if its a good idea is to buy the fronts(needed the most) and install them and wait till i get the money for the rear. so my questions are: How long would you expect the kybs to last with lowering springs? Is there a shock cheaper then the tokico blues but better than the kybs for use with lowering springs? Is replacing the fronts then the rears a bad idea? Am i pretty much limited to kybs with stock springs or waiting it out and getting something proper?

man that car has seen better days. Thats probably what they all look like in wisconsin

Ok so when I attach my custom wire running from the positive terminal on the battery to the ignition coil I hear a noise by the fuses on the passenger side. When the car is wired this way i can get it start. The thing making the noise can be seen in my first picture below. When I do not have my custom wire attached I do not hear any noise from that same unit when i attempt to start the car. In fact I dont think i hear anything at all. I took a further look down at the passenger side feet and i found a few things. One was a blown 10a fuse although i do not know what it was for. The second was a disconnected wire seen in pictures 2 and 3 down below. I replaced the blown fuse, removed my custom wire, and tried starting my car with and without the wire attached seen in pictures 2 and 3 below with no luck. From what i can conclude there is something wrong with the wiring involved with the item in picture 1. Does anybody know what the items in the pictures are and does anybody have any suggestions as to how i should attempt to problem solve from here?

ya i figured that was why after i read the things you guys had posted. Thats why I added all the other stuff. So I disconnected that wire and now instead of trying to get my motor to turn off I am trying to figure out how to make it turn on. I believe I have a general knowledge of where the problem is and ill post pics and explain

this would be you

Im not the wisest but a 700whp in a "period correct stock z body" is not going to last long. The z is going to rip in half. And if you want to make that much horsepower would it be best to do a stroker build?

K so ive been withholding some information about my car. The more i hear your responses the more i see that i most likely do not have multiple problems but one central problem. So let me inform you a little more about the history of the car upon purchase -Car didnt run(fuel delivery/fixed) -Ignition switch had been replaced by previous owner(he said it was done incorrect) -Wire has been soldered to black/yellow wire on key ignition and ran to the starter(has since been put back to normal) -White wire with red stripe going to alternator has been cut, replacement wire is in its place running from battery to alternator(I have since reconnected white/red wire back to alternator) -No spark(ran wire from battery to ignition coil and got spark) -Alternator isnt outputing My issues I am trying to fix with my car are: start without the jumper wire, have the car turn off when the key is removed, and get power coming from alternator. Since I am not the wisest when it comes to cars i didnt think there was a connection before but now i am sure there is. I am assuming the car does not turn off because of my jumper wire and/or alternator problem. I feel i have made a mess of this thread and i am sorry. Can anybody give me any suggestions on what I should check? Thank you all for your previous replies and for the help thus far. You guys are great

i saw that diagram but where in the car is this?

Its like trying to read chinese

If the diode is broken will the alternator not be working as well?

http://www.zcar.com/forum/10-70-83-tech-discussion-forum/120989-ignition-module.html

based off what i read in the service manual i think r means resistor. Where is this resistor? Also do you know where the ignition relay is?