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Everything posted by Dat73z

  1. It is an inconel alloy custom heat shield. I sent the full assembly to these guys https://atpwrap.com/
  2. Realized I never updated. 2x 45s non swivel (for more clearance) did the trick. It's not perfect but it should work. Also realized I was cutting the 10an line all wrong. With a perfect cut, no frays, and some motor oil the line comes together really easily. The 6an and 8an was always more forgiving to me on this
  3. @AydinZ71 yep I had a similar dilemma...was moving and contemplated selling all of these random stroker parts I had laying around. Ended up dropping them off at Rebello since he was local to me and getting a 3.2 turbo stroker built. A monster NA would've cost about the same since labor is pretty constant
  4. Great progress. Are you planning to replace the dash pad or restore the dash while it's out? Now is a great time to do it
  5. Realized I haven't updated in a while but this build has been going on in the background. Did a bunch of welding this past few months and other mini projects to get things prepped. Started mounting up the intercooler, catch can, oil temp sensor, plumbing oil/coolant, and misc. accessories. For anyone doing this type of build the turbo gets really close to the shock tower. I think the charge piping I had mocked up before pulling the last motor had the turbo outlet lightly rubbing against it with the way I wanted things clocked. I welded a cast 90 which gives me another 1/2-1" of clearance.
  6. You already have a lot of great responses here. Not sure if there is a local Z community in KY but if you have the opportunity see if you can drive a stroker L and a turbo L to see what makes the most sense. IMO even a mild stroker or mild l28ET is a lot of fun in the light s30 chassis. The L28ET is likely going to be the best bang for your buck. My friend just got their 3.1 Rebello stroker race car with triple Mikuni 44's back on the road and if you're going to build it all of those parts and work are not cheap. If you really want to light money on fire you could do both a turbo and stroker b
  7. Thanks @Miles. I placed an order for the 15/16 from AZC. It's around the same price shipped as the Wilwood 1" MC. Hopefully no more leaks. FYI- it looks like Steven has taken over AZC from Dave full time now. Nice guy, I think he answered some Q's earlier this year on a bunch if AZC parts I purchased new from Dave a long time ago.
  8. Old thread but does anyone have recent experiences with the wilwood 1" mc's? I pulled mine off and it's weeping from the rear. I got maybe 20k miles out of it. I did like the pedal feel with wilwood 4 piston calipers front and rear but I'm debating to go with a 15/16 instead.
  9. Does anyone know of a vendor that still does louvered inspection lids? I see MSA does a core exchange and Skillard makes some nice ones from AL. Specifically I'm looking for someone who can do 6 vents with dimensions like the pictures below. The ones I've seen on the market today don't quite look right to me. Figured I'd ask before I start calling around. Thanks
  10. Just a quick update: Tried a few things but eventually what I found that worked best was gas in a mason jar. After a few hours of soaking the rtv just swells off. Probably not the most cost effective option at $5/gal now but maybe this can help someone.
  11. Thabks @Datz44. I am running square setup 15x8 +0 225 50 R888. I'm considering 235 or 245 on 15 if I can find a wheel that will fit over my brakes
  12. After some delays finally got the BHJ damper in from Rebello and so I mounted it up. I used a Volvo washer turned down to the same OD as the stock 240z crank washer and a Nissan KA bolt. After chasing the crank snout with a bottoming tap my measurements show I have maybe 2-3mm of threads left when using the thicker volvo washer so I won't need to turn the longer KA bolt down. This next couple of weeks the plan is to mount the rest of the accesories and get the full driveline back in the car to start fabricating the exhaust and charge piping.
  13. So I finally got around to this. Welding was ok but my grinding skills could definitely use improvement. I really like the way the silicon bronze filler rod flows. At the right temp it's it melts and flows out like butter. With more practice I could probably get the heat affected zone really small. Anyways, after some quick practice tacks and dabs what I found that worked: Focus the torch on the rod not the base material. I laid the rod over the pinholed areas and quick jabs of the foot pedal to build up some tacks (maybe 15-20amps). This was not quite enough heat to f
  14. Thanks for the replies guys good insights. I've been busy with other projects but am planning to get to this later in the week and will update. With the tig I've welded thin sheetmetal and done repairs before, but never brazing. I'm not planning to melt the base metal so hopefully blowthrough won't be an issue but we will see. Maybe I'll just preheat the area and lay the rod right over the hole then give it a quick jab of the pedal.
  15. Looks neat. Do you have any closeups of the surface finish you are able to achieve?
  16. I've been preparing my windshield frame for a new seal and have a couple of minor rust pinholes. I have a tig welder and was contemplating tacking over these areas with er70s since that is what I had. However, I saw some 1/16" silicon bronze filler at the store and thought maybe that would work better since brazing wouldn't require melting the base metal which looks to be quite thin so I picked up some rods. Has anyone brazed over rust pinholes and how did that work out for you? I was thinking of keeping it simple tig brazing, grind down, then epoxy seal and filler ove
  17. Thanks Aydin. It looks like my local O'Reilly's has SEM Rust-Mort so I'll give that a shot. Good tips info on the sill thickness, didn't realize it was so thin. If I find any pinholes I'll hit it with the tig and some filler. Worst case I could always weld in a patch and refinish the area. This was supposed to be a quick R&R but better to do it right I suppose. Never an easy project, oh well 😅
  18. I'm preparing my car for a new windshield and seal. Unfortunately I found one spot of rust above the cowl right at the bottom on the windshield. Fortunately the metal is solid and fully covered by the seal. I was planning to just wire wheel, prime and paint but realistically I probably won't be pulling the windshield again for many years. I'm worried if I miss some specs of rust in the pores it will start again. Does anyone have recommendations on a rust converter that works well?
  19. Quick update, been busy with the chassis for this build but for the blowthrough turbo motor mounted the BOV. Feedback from Rebello was this setup needs to vent immediately transitioning off boost when the butterflies close or fuel throws up through the front of the carbs. I guess they experienced some of that on the dyno so maybe the upgraded BOV will help. The last piece I'm waiting for before buttoning up the motor and dropping it in is the BHJ damper. Apparently they were backordered for a long time but mine came in so Rebello will be sending over.
  20. Thanks for the help. I ended up going with the Valvoline generic gray full synthetic. The local parts stores had maybe 6-8 options but only Valvoline and CRC were marked directly on the tube as Extreme Pressure and for use with CVs. Valvoline wasn't cheap at $20 per tube but the CRC was something like 2x the cost for the same volume. FSM for the Infinity Q45 showed 6.5-7oz per CV and each Valvoline tube was around 14oz so I sliced 2 tubes in half with a razor, half a tube for each CV.
  21. Thanks NewZed, perfect. Yes the oil pressure relief valve in the block has been plugged.
  22. I restored a 280zx oil filter adapter and realize it can mount on the block in 4x orientations. Does anyone know how these were mounted from the factory or the best orientation in the s30 chassis? Here's how I currently have it positioned. Thank you.
  23. Thanks Tony and good to see you're still around. I've been putting this off but need to get it done to prep for some welding. Haven't seen any MEK products at all this last few weeks, might still be out there somewhere.
  24. No experience with the ZCG CVs but just out of curiosity are you still running the OE stub axles? I'm sure others will chime in just curious on how you're shock loading the rear end in your app as that can be another major failure point. Some people go with axles that eliminate the OE stubs entitely to circumvent this which the ZCG doesn't look to do.
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