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Found 6 results

  1. So I'm experiencing a bad vibration when I apply throttle in gear. It's mostly noticeable in 3rd gear and higher, but if I really push it in 1st-2nd gear it'll vibrate. It doesn't matter how much I push the gas pedal, any throttle input at all will cause vibration in 3rd gear and up. It sounds and feels like it's coming from the rear end. If I let off the throttle I can hear a hum or a winding noise. There is NO vibration with clutch in or in neutral, only in gear. At any speed going down the road if I push the clutch in the vibration stops immediately. I had my diff rebuilt not even a year ago at a transmission shop when my diff was making a loud humming noise constantly, so there shouldn't be an issue with it. My first thought was the driveshaft ujoints, but after getting under the car and checking the play it doesn't seem to be that bad. I'll have to take it the trans shop to be sure. I took a look at the engine mounts, but only in neutral and revving. There was slight shifting but it seemed normal. I'm going to check the mounts at load tomorrow and check the trans mounts too. Also checked the driveshaft bolts and they were very tight. No flange to flange play. Halfshafts too. I don't know when exactly this started happening, so I can't pinpoint what I did that started the vibration. Just went down the road one day and felt the shaking. I don't drive the car very hard, never clutch dumping or launching it. Anyone else have this issue before? What fixed it for you? If any of you need more info I'll provide it. I'm going to take it down to the transmission shop soon to see what they think, in the meantime I'd love for y'all to suggests some tests for me to do to narrow down the issue. Thanks
  2. 72 240Z SBC S12+8 solid rotor front brakes and MM 240SX rear brakes I have been looking for brake pads that have good cold bite as I do most of my daily driving in stop and go rush hour traffic. I have tried KVR, Hawk HPS and Poterfield R4S pads and they require a few stops before becoming efficient. I don't care about dust. Research is showing that AXXIS ULT pads have good cold bite and fade resistance. Friction code: FF Do these AXXIS pads make a lot of noise?
  3. I've probably pulled my front wheels off 5 times messing with these brakes and now I need to ask for advice. The car is a '75 280z, all stock brake components except for maybe the pads. They're the same ones I bought with the car 1 and a half years ago. Every time I brake I get this HORRIBLY loud squeak/squeal/grind noise coming from both the front wheels. The noise changes depending on how hard I brake, sometimes if I brake really hard it doesn't squeal at all except maybe a little noise. The loudest noises come from light braking. All of my front brake pads have plenty of meat left on them. They honestly look new there's so much. Every time I've checked the pads and rotors they've been glazed. So I pull off the pads and sand them pretty good with rough sandpaper and do the same with the rotors. After I sanded the pads and rotors on both sides and start driving, it's great. Barely a peep out of them for the first drive. But the next day/couple days later they start progressively making the horrible noise again, and they glaze again. Also I found that if I spin my rotor with the pads and caliper on, I hear kind of a light scraping noise. It only happens on some spots on the rotor, rest is silent. I'm so over dealing with this I think it's time to just buy new rotors and brake pads. Maybe even do the toyota 4x4 caliper swap. But I don't want to spend money on it considering I believe both the rotors and pads have good life on them. I just replaced all studs on my drivers side front wheel and repacked the wheel bearings too, so I don't wanna pull off that rotor again. What do you guys think? Should I just bite the bullet and replace my brakes? Anyone else have similar trouble? My worst nightmare is replacing the rotors and pads to find out it still makes noise. I just want this embarrassing noise gone. Thanks
  4. My motor has always had a lite bit of a rattle but it has gotten worse to the point it scares me. Noise comes from the top of the front cover. Car runs great. Does this soundick like an upper guide or the lower tensioner?
  5. So yesterday I was on my way home and my ABS light came on. This was disconcerting since it's NEVER come on before, not in the 17 years I've had the car. So I was looking into the symptoms and aside from the light, there's a hum of a motor coming from the back right rear of the car. Shutting off the car clears the ABS light temporarily, but it comes back on after a few minutes even at idle. I checked the ABS fuse and it's good, I pulled the fuse and the hum continues. I do still have brakes so that's good, but the motor noise continues even with the key off and out of the ignition. I was worried I'd run the batter down so I got a wrench and disconnected the negative cable. Today I read around a bit and it seems this is a fairly common issue we'll see more of. The ABS relay apparently can get old and get stuck. Tonight I will open the panel and rap on the relay then reconnect the power and see if the ABS pump still is humming. If so I'll pull the relay and it should from all accounts stop. If that's the case I'll order the $50 relay and be done with it. If a new relay doesn't fix the issue then it could be the wheel sensors or some other part. I'll have to break out the FSM to see how it's tested. Failing that it's a dealer diagnosis. I'd much rather do it myself than pay someone to guess at the issue. There are some savvy Z32 mechanics around, but even at Nissan, the newer mechanics have barely touched these older Z cars. I'll let you guys know what I find out and hopefully snap some pictures in the process. Phar
  6. New poster here... Just installed a new motor in the 71 240: F54/N47, comp cams 280s cam, 3x 40dcoe, headers, exedy regular clutch, flywheel from my l24, new timing kit, carter p4070, Holley 12-804 reg, mallory dist from l24. Also replaced 4 speed with 5 speed close-ratio. Using fork and collar from 240 trans because whatever collar came with 280 was too long and slave cylinder couldn't be mounted. The car makes a very odd sonar, red alert sound. It happens with the clutch pedal out and minor revs. Doesn't seem to increase with engine speed. Sounds like it's coming from the bell housing area... Strange. Also, I had to cut the tunnel/console to fit the shifter. Not needed with close-ratio?? Not so fast! I think the trans has an older bell housing on it. Serial 7y1594(1?). Oy. Gears 2 and 3 are mighty close, it must be the right tranny. New redline mt90 in the trans, too. Next problem: Carter pump mounted by tank, constant 12v. No need for regulator? Yeah right. Carbs poured gas out right away! Installed low pressure Holley 12-804 after filter in engine bay. Fuel pressure okay on initial startup, I checked it after a min and it was creeping up past 7psi. Adjust reg, no difference. Not running a return. Fuel is fed to carbs via 5/16" line. I thought these pumps had a bypass that would send gas back to the tank? I'll upload a short video of the sound ASAP.
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