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HybridZ

Stealth-Z

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Posts posted by Stealth-Z

  1. Quick question for you CA guys (since I may be moving out there in a year or two)

     

    When you do a swap in your post 75 Datsun, does it have to pass smog for the year of the chassis or the year of the engine?

    This is the last I will post about CA emissions in this thread. It is moving away from the OP's apparent thought of what the topic should have been.

     

    Certification Standards

     

    Make sure the engine and emission control configuration on exhaust – controlled vehicles are certified to the year of the vehicle or newer, and to the same or a more stringent new vehicle certification standard.

     

    Where I found the above statement.

    http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/07_AutoRepair/Engine_Change_Guidelines.html

  2. It has been a while since posting anything with my 2+2's. I am now down to one, the 76 Fairlady Z. I have all the paperwork since it was imported to the U.S. in 1986. This one has even been cleared through the U.S. Dept of Transportation and CalEPA.

    An interesting find was it being owned by a Lieutenant who was in the same squadron in Okinawa as I was. This one was shipped to the U.S October 1986. I left Okinawa in December 1986. How is that for a coincidence? Originally it was dark gray similar to Challenger's Z.

     

    The Centerline wheels have been sitting in my spare room for 4+ years along with the G-Nose, flares, sideskirts, and rear spoiler. I was thinking of painting it the same color red after fixing the rust issues. At first my thought was to paint the flares and lower G-Nose black. Now after seeing them in white, well, it would be different to leave them.

     

    76_02.jpg

    76_01.jpg

     

    The other project 2+2 is now gone. No more RB30DETT into the 78. Now the plan is to build something to drive. It does not need a 450+ HP motor setup.

  3. Well, the way I'm getting around smog in my new '78 is by swapping a diesel in :D

    Even then you get to deal with the wonderful BAR. Diesels 1998 and newer will be under the smog check rule starting January 2010.

     

    While in Singapore a few years ago a taxi driver let me drive his turbo VW cab. Actually it was some sort of Czech licensed version. Anyway, the diesel in it was impressive with its power and pickup. I was thinking of importing one until I found this.

     

    http://www.bar.ca.gov/80_BARResources/05_Legislative/RegulatoryActions/dieselcoms1108.html

  4. there are various ways to walk around the law, as for me, im going to get a motor out of a smog exempt car like a 70's camero/firebird and slap on some modern componets ....heh heheee! that'll fix arnold blasted bs he laid down on the car guys!

     

    please correct me if i am wrong, ca dmv employees are idiots... i take that back they can be idiots!

     

    ps

    this does not include state referree. they may see things differently

    You cannot legally swap an older motor into a newer model car. That includes installing modern components. The penalties a smog tech faces these days makes them very cautious of looking the other way.

  5. You will have to have a contact in Japan deal as an intermediary. I used to have a contact but they have since left Japan.

     

    http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n59069707

    These are thin made pieces that will require fitting. Count on it running over $350.00 by the time you are done with shipping, handling and what ever other fee's come about.

     

    You might want to check a service RHDJapan.com is now offering.

    https://www.bidjdm.com/home/about_us.php

     

    The best reproduction stuff is definitely from the link provided by HS30-H

  6. Boy that sucks! I hate to hear your troubles but I also hope that it goes away and you get your project done.

     

    It would probably be better to part it out, but if it's not costing you anything, why not wait.

    I have thought about building a nice roll around cart for the motor and wrapping it all up. The body and most of the spares for the Z will be going. At least I could accomplish cleaning up my garage, yard, and spare bedroom!

  7. I have come to the conclusion my project is not going to be completed any time soon. Now I have this motor I have been building and accumulating parts for and am curious as to what others think would be appropriate to do with.

     

    The short block has Spool Rods, custom Wiseco pistons, ATI 600HP Balancer, N1 oil pump, water pump, RB26 ARP head studs, oil restrictor installed in front and block off in rear, JUN crank collar installed, ACL Main & Conrod bearings, and a twin disk OCR sprung clutch assembly. All parts are new with the exception of the clutch assembly. The entire rotating assembly has also been balanced together. New tensioner & idler pulleys are installed in the appropriate locations.

     

    The top end is a rebuilt stock RB26 head. I did not do any type of port work to it. It was a task in itself just getting the shim clearances properly set after the valve job. The head is sitting on a Cometic MLS gasket. The turbo's are rebuilt Steel Wheeled R32 Nismo's. 60/.64's. I have Greddy 720cc injectors fitted to a drilled out stock GTR fuel rail.

     

    Am I better off gutting it and selling the parts off piece by piece?

     

    My plan was to order a Nistune setup this week but unfortunately reality is setting in after the last recent road trip. Over a year ago I had an unfortunate work incident with a ladder, the concrete floor and the back of my head. Driving and motion simply makes me sick. I used to love driving for hours on end, now I cannot stand it for even short periods.

  8. so this isn't just a CP issue? It can happen with any pistons?

    Of course it can happen with any piston. Just because the box off the shelf says 8.5:1CR does not mean it will be that way in your setup.

     

    With the piston fiasco I have gone through lately, I would look very closely at what cheftrd has suggested.

     

    And there is a third possible solution instead of a thicker head gasket or cutting the quench pads. You can have a machinist cut the piston down some.

  9. You need to get the Quest rear wheel studs. They have the correct knurl diameter (12.9mm). The front Quest stud has a knurl diameter of 14.3mm.

     

    http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111512

    I could not find the Nissan part number anywhere in the threads. At the dealership I specified the rear stud of a Quest van and was obviously given the one for the front.

     

    At $12.00 each I doubt anyone here is going to buy factory Nissan when you can get the Napa part for $3.00 each.

  10. May be an old thread but info is still useful to update in my opinion. I purchased one stud for a Nissan Quest van from the dealership to test fit. The part number was 40222-7B000. The list price from Nissan is $12.00 each!

     

    This part number (40222-7B000) does not fit the rear axles.

     

    Napa Auto part#641-2785 does fit. They now cost $3.00 each. I purchased 8 of them and after pressing them all in discovered one was a different thread pitch. Someone must have dropped one in the wrong box. Now I have to go back for one more!

     

    The stud at the top of the photo is the Nissan part, Middle is from Napa, and the bottom is the stock 280Z.

     

    raxlestud.jpg

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