Stealth-Z
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Posts posted by Stealth-Z
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looking to have mine re-roofed about how much I'm I looking at?
I'm thinking about 500 is that far off?
thanks
Forget the top....Roadster!!!
Back to the TABCO subject.
Count me in for 2+2 rear Quarter Panels. Both my Fairlady Z's have some sort of damage by either collision or rust.
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I am just trying to get the correct information to build a RB30/26 motor. There is so much misinformation out there to make your head spin off.
RIPS has been successfully building them for years. I have no doubt about it. In August 2007 I purchased a timing belt and tensioner / idler kit from him. It came with directions on where to relocate the the tensioner stud. I purchased it knowing it was a proven application.
In all my searching, I have still not found the answer to what sort of specs people use with these motors. My local sources are all what many say are old school racers from the 60's and 70's. They believe in measuring tolerances and want to get the best quench possible to squeeze out every last bit of horsepower. They take into account piston rock and valve clearances. The machinist that cut my pistons does machine work for AeroJet, a company that does research and development of rocket motors and other aerospace projects.
But these motors are not the same technology. The machinist that did the valve job questioned the differences between the valve lash of the intake and exhaust. On RB26's the exhaust side runs a closer tolerance than the intake. It is backwards to someone who builds domestic (GM, Ford, Mopar, ect.) heads.
In hind sight I should have just purchased flat top pistons and be done with it. My question's still remains though.
What sort of deck height should I be running them at? Below deck? Zero? or above?
What is an acceptable piston to cylinder head measurement? Are these motors not susceptible to detonation the same way the old 60's and 70's stuff is with today's fuel?
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There is a Nissan production RB24 motor in the Philippine export Cefiro. It is supposed to be a RB25 block with an RB20 crank and a RB30SOHC head with a carburator.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=99905&highlight=philippines
Might be a better way to go than messing around with the RB20 block.
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They are around and sometimes show up when you least expect.
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Hey guys,
Just wondering how your progressing with your projects. This thread seems to have gone a tad quiet. Have a good christmas and a happy new year.
Finally ready to start assembling my motor. Work is keeping me busy, I feel fortunate to have a job these days.
Block now has a fresh coat of paint.
Rotating assembly ready to assemble. I am taking my time measuring out the ring end gaps.
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Bryan aka 1 fast z makes nice aluminum radiators. He made one for me with right side hose connections.
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Bryan aka 1 fast z makes nice aluminum radiators. He made one for me with right side hose connections.
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Since your location is Sacramento, go to Mattz Garage and have him build and install a nice VG30DETT setup for you.
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It comes down to the cashier and what their mood is at the time.
You can tell when someone is in a bad mood when parts are stacked up around the counter.
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Now, as I had mentioned earlier, the RB30 pistons are 1.280 compression height pistons, and RB26 pistons stick out of the block by 0.020 inches, or 0.5 mm. This is referred to as "positive deck" clearance. The VG30 pistons, being 1.260 compression height would give you a "zero deck" clearance.
Are you sure about the RB26 pistons sticking out of the block? I thought they had a lower compression height. Something around 1.18.
When I took this photo, the RB26 pistons had a lower compression height than the stock RB30e.
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This piston thing started for me July 2006!
Here is the threat for the first set of pistons from Wieseco.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112975&highlight=wiseco
After installing and measuring the above fore mentioned pistons, February 2007.
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135307&highlight=rb30+measure
Asking what compression calculators people are using, June 2008
http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135307&highlight=rb30+measure
I have asked for technical assistance. Not trying to reinvent the wheel here. Hopefully the above threads are clear on that.
Cutting the pistons down, yes, it added a bit of complexity to the whole thing. My choice was get new pistons or work with what I have. The dome looks that way because of the way the pistons were forged. Wiseco pushed up the dome from the inside. I could not simply shave off the top of the dome and retain adequate thickness.
Yes, CP now makes off the shelf pistons. Put a set of flat tops in and what do you get for a CR? You still have to measure all the parameters.
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I have two RB26 heads. One measured 64cc's and the other 66cc's. I measured multiple times.
Z-Monster,
I never looked at VG pistons. What are the specs on them? I know the heads have a smaller chamber volume than the RB's.
If they have a dished like appearance, you will not like the CR numbers. Using flat top pistons in my current configuration would give me 7.8:1.
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It figured out to be around 9.75:1 with the 66cc chamber volume on the one head.
The torque plate is mine. I am eventually going to trade it for tuning work once the motor is built and ready to run. Until then, we may be able to figure something out.
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$900.00? Now I do not feel bad having this one made for My RB motor for $500.00
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After years of effort, I finally have the right combination for my never ending RB30DETT build. This may get long winded.
Several years ago Wiseco custom made a set of pistons for myself and AKWIKZ. This is what they send us.
These flat top pistons had 5cc valve relief cuts. They were supposed to yield a compression ratio of around 9:1. After installing and measuring them in the block I discovered the compression ratio would be around 7:1.
After a discussion with Wiseco it was discovered there was an error in the order. So after some more time they ended up sending us these.
The new pistons have 16cc domes. Initial measurements indicated these would give me a 9:1 compression ratio.
Now me being the perfectionist wanted to have a closer quench between the piston and head chamber. By the time I got the pistons to a zero deck height, the compression ratio numbers became to high for my idea of a turbo motor.
There is a lot of information on Skylines Australia about the "Ideal" compression ratio of the RB30DET conversion being around 9:1. I am building a street car that has to run on 91 octane California fuel. So instead of having new pistons made, I decided to have the 16cc dome area cut down.
Fortunately I found a machinist local to me who was competent enough to keep a uniform thickness. He removed about half the original dome area.
This new configuration will give me an 8.6:1 compression ratio.
The machinist also made this torque plate for doing the final hone and piston clearance. I kept getting conflicting information about the benefit or need of a torque plate when boring a motor. I can say I did see deformation around the head stud areas.
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Anyone know what the differences are?
Besides the obvious that one goes over the valve cover and the other has like the 6 individual throttle bodys or something weird.
I should be receiving my RB25DET within the next week or so. Its paid for and should leave on Tue the 18th. I ended up breaking my rules and purchasing from Jhot. They were really inexpensive so it was worth the gamble. I will find out for sure when I get the engine.
My reason for the question is that I would like to convert the stock manifold over to the rb26dett style intake manifold. It appears there are several options. Of which the most popular is to use the Greddy or Greddy knockoff manifolds with the single throttle body. Alot of people use that second option. Alot of the manifolds that are obvious knock offs have warnings saying they will require professional installation. Im thinking that using the stock RB26det manifold would be better as it changes the amount of turns in my intercooler piping. That is if I can find one. Has anyone bolted one those bad boys up to the 25?
Another stupid question by yours truely
My RB26 intake setup is disassembled at the moment. We could compare them some time as I am local to you.
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Bought it 5 years ago, $12k+ later still on jackstands
Nice to know I am not alone.....
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Well, the front cover might not work on the 25 due to the variable valve timing, so I think I have to use the front cover from the 25.
Yeah, you are sort of stuck with the front cover. RB26 valve covers would still look good on yours.
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I was planning on trying it out since i find the RB26 cover to be more pleasing to my eye then the 25 one but i would grind away the 26 number and leave the RB letter to not have it pass for a 26 when its not .
My cover has the RB26 ground off. I do not want to be one of those RB26 wanna be's.
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So we are talking all RB25DET engines from the GTS cars then, just for clarification? So I should be following this thread for final part number and be prepared to do this so I have a speedo on my 260z when Im done.
Im not sure what a Navara model is but I saw reference to it as D21. So Hardbody pickups? The ones readily avail here stateside?
Thanks
I just ordered one yesterday from Elk Grove Nissan. Part No: 3270202G17 will be here for me some time next week.
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Improvise. Back through the drive thru's.
I learned how to drive a standard shift car while in Okinawa. My job had me switching back and forth between LHD and RHD. So I developed a sort of ambidextrious driving habits.
It was fun driving my 74 Formula Firebird backwards at the McDonalds drive thru.
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Flame me all you want, but IF I had gone through with my plan to bring back a skyline from Oki, one of the first things I would have done was try to figure out how to convert it to LHD.
People always asked me back in 1987 if I was going to convert my first Fairlady Z to LHD.
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http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/838861766.html
WTB 240Z or 260z 2+2 seats - $2000 (oakland east)
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Reply to: sale-838861766@craigslist.org [?]
Date: 2008-09-12, 11:52PM PDT
I am looking for a working 240zor a 260z 2+2 seater, with everything working fine. Must have a RB swap, SR20DE swap or anythng swaps that get at least 23mpg. Please no small block 350 moter. Must be 2000 OBO
it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
PostingID: 838861766
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Almost the exact same wording was on a craigslist ad here in Sacramento several weeks ago. I received the same response about opening the ebay protection thing. Of course I never responded, seemed to fishy to me.
They used photos of a nice emerald green 300ZXtt. Who ever it is seems to be making the rounds about the country.
(dumb question alert!) How would you remove an RB from an engine stand?...
in Nissan RB Forum
Posted
Multiple ways to do it. I end up moving motors around by myself all the time.
Nylon Rope works. If you can tow a car with it why not lift a motor?
You might find it easier to remove the pan and all the internals. Bolt the crank girdle back on.
As for the engine stand. They can hold the weight. Mine is attached using RB20 main bolts.