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Muskrat

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About Muskrat

  • Birthday 02/02/1985

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  1. Got mine the other day, great quality on both patches, can't wait for a run of hybridz patches. Also need to track down a dickie's jacket.
  2. Happy birthday, old man. Put me down for the last large patch, one small, and put me on the list for the hopefully soon to come Hybridz patches.
  3. Is it too late to get in on some of these patches? Also, can I get some contact info on where to order the jackets?
  4. Actually, I had completely forgotten Jerry has a frame machine. I'll have to give him a call later on today. Thats for the reminder, Spot.
  5. Actually, since the bronze can't really hurt anything on its own, I'd just as soon leave it alone and seam weld in between the bronze joints. $500+ is a little hard to chew on after spending nearly $600 on a welder, but I'll definately have the frame checked, and decide what to do from there.
  6. Also known as 'while I'm at it' sydrome. A nasty ailment, it turned my stock L28ET swap into a megasquirted, GT35'ed, complete teardown and rebuild. Ballpark figure, how much should I be expecting to spend at a frame shop to put the car on a rack, and do any frame straightening necessary?
  7. Forgot to add a few minor details. I've got a PDK 8-point front end brace for this car, as well as a 1" front sway bar that will be mounted as well. We also just ordered a Millermatic 135, our old flux core welder just doesn't cut it for sheetmetal work.
  8. The pictures kind of speak for themselves. Some time in this car's lifespan, its taken a 'light' bump on the nose, resulting in some rather interesting reconstruction. The passenger inner fender has been cut and replaced forward of the shock towers. All of the work appears to have been done with oxyfuel welding and some kind of bronze colored filler. I've been uncovering this filler material over the entire passenger side of the engine bay, across the core support, and on a few places on the driver side. I'm including shots of the damaged passenger side and shots of the relatively unmolested driver side for reference. Pictures are aligned as if you were standing in front of the car looking towards it, left picture is passenger side, right is driver. The upper portion of the core support is all factory welds, with the lower made up entirely of bronze colored welds. Matching creases in the upper frame on both driver and passenger sides at roughly the same point, complete with drilled holes. Moving back now from the front of the car, the headlight bucket area, most notably the left side, which has been completely reattached. Finally, the inner fenders. The passenger side has been completely chopped and replaced forward of the shock tower, I've since (poorly) welded the two pieces completely together, as the origional repair welds had long since broken and seam sealer was the only thing holding it together. EDIT: The upper frame on the left side has been partially replaced as well, and now has a nice gap even with the shock tower. Now, I know very little about how body shops do frame repair of this kind, so this may be perfectly workable (I did drive it like this for two years). However, with the new turbo engine going in and the possibility of seeing autocross / roadrace time, I want the peace of mind that comes with knowing my frame is solid. My main concerns are the creases in the frame and the shoddy looking bronze welds. Could I just run short 1" seam welds between the bronze ones? Do the creases need to be cut and new material welded in, or can they remain as is?
  9. Heh, compared to the 4 speed I was running, just having a fifth gear at all is a huge improvement.
  10. 240z 4-spd 3.549 2.197 1.42 1 77-79 5-spd 3.321 2.077 1.308 1 .864 80 5-spd 3.062 1.858 1.308 1 .773 81-83 5-spd 3.062 1.858 1.308 1 .745 Turbo T5 3.5 2.144 1.375 1 .78 Z32 3.214 1.925 1.302 1 .752 Just for reference. http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/transmission.html
  11. Found these in the ever helpful Z Design Studio on geocities, for the turbo Z32 (though the NA should be the same). first 3.214 sec 1.925 thir 1.302 four 1.000 fifth .752
  12. Looking at the specs on speedshopthagard.com, that turbo is listed as using a T28 turbine housing, which, if memory serves, wont bolt up to a T3 flange. After trading emails with Thagard, I ended up going with a GT35/T3 instead of the 60-1 that I was origionally looking at. If you haven't already, you might want to shoot him an email and see if he can suggest something for your application.
  13. I'd start your quest for L28ET power with the turbo FAQ. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=84860
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