kamikaZeS30

It's hard to get a sense of scale/size from those pics, but it looks like it's either what they call a "Nippo" style or a standard GM high performance gear-reduction. A lot of aftermarket performance starters will be made to fit both types of flywheels (because the tooth size/spacing is analagous between the two) and have both bolt-patterns, so if you're not sure make sure it lists both 153 and 168. The biggest thing is getting it shimmed properly when you install it. Generally speaking: the 168-tooth starters will have "staggered" mounting bolt-pattern, while the 153-tooth ones are parallel.

So, as my car comes further along I get to smaller and smaller items. I have not had any issues with over-heating or the engine running on the warm side (even in Southern California traffic), but I do have a coolant leak. It doesn't appear to leak while the engine is running, rather it happens almost exactly 24 hours after it has been run and the engine is stone cold. I know where the leak is, it's in the water-outlet/thermostat housing on the intake manifold. Last night, I went and picked up one of the Fel-Pro performance rubber-silicone gaskets with the steel inserts. This probably would've worked wonders, but apparently it's not made for my water neck thing, the one I have is the supposedly "new-style" O-ring. So, this disappointed me and I just slapped some RTV on the O-ring to help it seal, then put everything back together (with lock washers this time, sorry, long story...). Drove it from where I did the work to back home, engine was able to reach operational temperature and remain there for a few minutes. Went to check on it today and, lo and behold, it's still leaking out of that damned O-ring. I *think* my intake manifold side is good (it could be uneven, this wasn't a very expensive aluminum manifold, probably Chinese made), I cleaned it before I put everything back together. I am looking for advice from folks that have more experience with the SBC than I, would it be alright if I took it apart again and just slathered a nice thick ring of RTV on it and squished it down to torque and then waiting a few hours before putting more coolant in? Is there someplace that still sells the flat-gasket type water neck housings? I used these Fel-Pro gaskets on all my external oil seals and they seem to be completely dry and leak-free. It's bothering me because I hate that burning coolant smell when I'm driving.

Long awaited update, hope I don't get hammered for thread necromancy but this is a legitimate update. I finally got a free weekend to work on my motor mounts and installing the new headers w/ wrap. I got two rolls of the DEI "Titanium" 2"x50' exhaust wrap. The manufacturer claims it will withstand temperatures up to 2200 degrees F. The headers are stainless steel 1 5/8" Primaries, 2 1/2" collector with 5/16" flanges, I got them from KMJ Performance on eBay. The headers seemed well-made: good welds, nicely machined and finished flanges and the interior welds were ground and polished and it came with good quality stainless hardware. The motor mounts I'm using are the ones from MSA, the car is lowered so I didn't want the lower JTR mounting position for fear of damage to the oil-pan or exhaust. With the mounts now properly installed (welded to the K-member) the headers and wrap clear the steering shaft nicely. They were also a breeze to install, the only thing I had to remove was some of my intake plumbing, but I know a lot of people here are not running a dual-filter cold-air intake. As far as the performance/heat issue: other than the new headers smoking for a little while after they were installed (I used chemical cleaners and was doing other maintenance + dirty fingers, so a little smoke was expected) it's quieted the car down a lot (it definitely has the "sleeper" effect I wanted) and drastically reduced engine bay heat and thereby reducing cabin heat, too. I wrapped to just above the weld for the collector flange, so we'll see how long these last with the wrap on them. They look really nice, too, because I went for the metallic/carbon fiber looking wrap. Much better than the "bent turd" headers I had before.

I don't feel qualified to speak for "most people," but I will say that the electric choke is pretty much the "easiest" way to go: set it and forget it. It's also very easy to wire-in, just need a 12v+ lead and then ground it to the body of the intake or carb and you're done.

I used to have the choke cable you need laying around somewhere. Are you running an automatic transmission? I don't see how you could run a manual and still use the original center-console (unless you cut it to pieces). I know, I just completed the swap on a rear-hatch-vents 1971. Why not just use an electric choke? I love mine, tap the gas pedal once and let it rip.

Huh? There's some huge logic leap there that doesn't compute. One reason I can see doing the early Z vice a later Z is that it gives one more options. If one were wanting a v8 swap you have a choice of '70+ Gen I small blocks or the newer LT/LS blocks, as well as a variety of '70+ Ford/Mopar options. The likelihood that one will be stopped for a roadside smog or written a ref ticket are also greatly reduced (But, it does happen!). It's also easier to BAR a swap from a newer platform into an older one (assuming one is buying a dressed swap or an entire donor vehicle). As long as the engine is from the same model year or newer and one retains the required emissions equipment for the new power-train. Ultimately it boils down to the factors that determine most engine swaps: price, availability, ease of completion/maintenance and aesthetic sensibilities. I decided to do the v8 swap after I already had the car and had been driving it for awhile. I like the look (and feel) of the early Zs, I wanted to make it faster and it was cheaper than dumping ridiculous amounts of money on modding the L6 (more than it already had been).

Sounds like you've been down a long road, Michael. But, I think you can at least take pride in the fact that you've, for the most part, finished what you started. Which, sad to say, is a lot more than what most people who set out to complete an ambitious project can say. And, I can't imagine that a big-block Z is really "disenchanting," then again, I'm 27, not 37. I have both a 1991 Mazda Flamboyant Hairdresser's car--eerrr, I mean, Miata and a 1971 240Z w/ a 383 V8 swap. I really like both cars for different reasons. I just spent over $7000 on my Z over the past year for the v8 swap and related drive-train/suspension items. I spent about $800 on the Miata, for some basic maintenance stuff, some new stereo components, aftermarket shocks and springs. I don't know which I can say that I get more "smiles-per-gallon" from, probably because it's difficult to flex those muscles under the kind of acceleration G-forces I experience in the Z. The one thing the Miata does have over the Z is that I don't have to explain to potential passengers why they smell gas when they roll down the window.

leopard_125: I believe he's pointing out a discrepancy between what is published in the book and what is listed on their website. So, before you jump all over him for copyright infringement, it might be a good idea to read his posts. NCchris: IIRC driver's side should be 2 1/4" and then passenger side should be 1 1/16", but that's from measuring my own mounts, not the JTR manual or website. :/

I agree with Michael on this one. I would make sure you have a solid bottom end (short block/rotating assembly), all the other performance stuff can be done easily once the car is running and without having to remove the engine. Also, to me, the advantage of putting the v8 in a light car like the 240/260/280Z is the torque, not necessarily top-end power. It makes for a more fun car, IMO.

I finally got the conversion running. So, I took it out to a volunteer event they were having at Madison High School for the auto-shop students there. Man, do they have a nice auto-shop, it's more well equipped than most dealerships/motor pools I've seen! 12 bays, all equipped with heavy hydraulic lifts, 2 laser alignment racks, tons and tons of diagnostic equipment and a HUGE tool room. I was in luck as they had a crew of professional photographers to cover the event. I'm the guy in the brown striped polo.

Did you rebuild the motor before install? If you've got oil smoke (in the exhaust I assume?) it's either rings or valves. Either way it's going to require major disassembly.

This was my approach to air delivery and clearance issues. Also helps me retain the aesthetic of my more "traditional" "tuner" roots. Sorry about the lighting, it was taken on a friend's cell-phone. But, you get the idea.

Nice work. I guess 2340. Edit: oh wait, 280z... Change my guess to 2650.

Length/gauge of the wire would change resistance values, I believe.

Depending on what ratios are already in the back of that car, you'd probably be just fine with what's already in it. Like rsicard, I also run a stock Nissan R200 behind my built 383, it seems to do the trick. You're working with a shortnose 4 pinion in that car, already, IIRC. So, really it comes down to what rear end ratios you want. I run 3.55s with a '87 Camaro T-5. Excellent pull in 1-4 and a smooth ride at 1750 on the freeway between 65-70mph. The Z32 is considerably heavier than the S30, though, so you'd probably want 3.73 or numerically higher if you're looking for acceleration. The T56 with a 3.73 or 3.90 would be a good match, considering it is a double-overdrive 6th transmission.