hooahh3

In other news, anyone want or need an l28/4speed complete pull out? lol Swap is well underway and hopefully done my next week home(if thanksgiving doesn't get in the way. So far it's gonna be well under a grand all said and done which is probably a 1/3? of what i would have spent for any where near 200 crank hp.

Well that spiraled quickly. lol Yes ive decided to just go ahead and drop the 5.3 in it. Working on the parts acquiring for that right now. After everything it does just seem to be the best route for now and the future. And that's what I was looking for more then anything Tony D. Some info from guys who have done the comparisons back to back of parts or mods. Not just thrown everything together and said this is what I got. Cause some things may be more "show then go" but theres no way of knowing unless its done systematically. One of the reasons I was hoping to get your opinion. You seem to have acutally done that or just messed with these enough over the years to have that already figured out, and be able to say whats the best route to go for the simple to wild from personal experience. I also never really specified it but the full tune to specs was part of what I was planning. or basically your tuned 147hp + 20-30hp. so it would acutally be a true bump, not just trying to go around the way to get back to whats already there anyways. But either way thanks for all the imput from everyone. If I didn't have the v8 already waiting, this would have defiantly helped me out and given me a lot better out come then just the way I was thinking of doing it.

yep. so i'm figuring out now. But at the time i was also more convinced it was a spark issue not fuel. so i headed that way first and came back to fuel. chose the wrong path.

Your right, I know the basics of how they work and all obviously but as far as the exact details of these in particular im lost. never owned 1 till this one. so that's why im leaning more towards a v8 swap. Those I know and can work on easily.

Did pull the valve cover and look around for just any signs of what ever, all looked good. Cleaned up, painted valve cover, polished the letters. (looks good contrasting like it does). Put it all back together and nothing, turns over but no crank. WTH!!! Smells rich, can just tell its either dumping fuel or just no spark at all. So I start going over everything, pulled out the FSM and did the MAF TPS INJ test. shot all the wires, bought new coil cause mine was reading weak on the resistance test. Checked the dizzy, points, plugs, timing. Hitting any and everything I could think of. Got it to run, and run great randomly. just put it back together as was and was thinking next move when I tried it and she ran great. Awesome, idk what was wrong, idk what fixed it but she runs again.....clean up tools and all. Close hood for test drive and nothing again. WTFFFFF!!!!! so I just left it for the night/ day it was 0630 at this point. Start again that afternoon and buddy comes over and hits the damn coolant temp sensor connector, it falls off and when I put it back on. BAM runs great. the damn connector was just loose enough to come off some times! must have hit it off and on again when I was working on it the other times. and after all night of wrenching I just missed that simple thing. Pulled up the FSM and sure enough that sensor runs into the ECU with fuel enrichment control..... . moral of the story, start with the simple stuff stupid. Don't over think yourself right off the batt. As much trouble shooting as I do at work youd think id remember that by now, but some times the brain just jumps and goes. plus being un familiar with these engines doesn't help

Yeah, going back to my other thread on oil consumption. Found theres also the rear main seal leaking so now it would be a complete tear down and rebuild vs what could have been just the top end. Looking through that and talking to some people about it, its looking to coast 2 grand or more for a GOOD, complete rebuild with out any of the suprises from bad parts. At this point im just gonna limp it along till ive got all my v8 stuff ready (hopefully this time next month). Time and finishing the project isn't really the issue. I will kinda be backing my self in a corner on it in a way. Fly home from work Tuesday morning like normal, start on the swap that night. Then ill have a whole 7 days of nothing but wrenching to get it done before my work week again. If I get my parts selection right and plan set up good, it should be done by then. easy to dump 100 hrs into it in 7 days. Hell I give work 95 in 7 days lol And its not really that I don't have time to add oil, it just always hits that point at the most un favorable time. Used my last quart and haven't been able to get another 1 yet. Going somewhere and its not an option for stopping or making detours, got a plane to catch. ect

Posting this so anyone else who search's for this will at least find the info they are looking for Apperantly it is possible. Was told by another member crapforum...yes that's his screen name. Also saw his vids on youtube, Rindo rides. He used the stockers with the flanges cut off on his 5.3 swap.

Gonna shoot you a PM Crapfourum. You seem to have done exactly what im needing right now and it seems to have turned out great. Got a lot of questions to bounce off of you if you don't mind.

Thank you Crapfourm....lmao. good name BTW!!! That's what I needed to know. Saves me a lot of time and more importantly money!!! It will be a HP NA build later on.

She will smoke a little on start up. Nothing bad if you didn't know the car to know it wasn't right. never looked after flogging it, usually looking for cops or other idiots on the road. lol And with it being the rear main, I can imagine how much the clutch has on it, and its probably glazed over the flywheel and pressure plate pretty good to at this point. Probably loosing 5-10% extra drive train HP right there from sliping.

well ive also figured out the rear main is leaking. cleaned engine off and took a spin. engine was clean( gasket location wise) and had oil dripping out from the bell housing hole on the bottom. Was enough to drip on to the concrete. No other explanation there but a rear main seal right? The more you convince me of it, I think ill just limp it along till I swap the 5.3 in. 3-4000$ can get me a good setup and 300+ hp since I already have a running eng/trans setup sitting in my shed waiting for me. Ill keep the original powertrain since you don't seem very many numbers matching all original s30's anymore. Most are v8, ET swaps, Turbo conversions, or just built for such HP that they've lost there "originalness" ya know. hell its a factory air, kinda rare for a 76'. didn't really become standard till 77 from what ive seen and herd (am I wrong there?) Thanks for the convinceing. lol was sitting on the fence and just need the push in the right direction.

not to revive the dead here, got a simple stupid question that just cant get a definitive yes or no answer on 2005 lm7 5.3L- will the stock exhaust manifolds work in a 76' 280z? yes or no? No one as put up a simple yes or no answer, or tried it (that I can find.) What do the cali guys do for exhaust if they cant run the swap kit headers??? Need to do the cheapest fastest, get it running, power don't matter 5.3/4l60e swap. Kinda in a pinch. Saving the 300$ on headers would really help if I can get by with the stockers for awhile. Sorry for the noob question, just need the short and simple answer fast. Thanks guys

Found it! In the 280z service manual, on ET-5 in calls for numbers from 164-178psi. In another location I cant remember it says if numbers below 164 theres basically a big problem and you got bad rings. A table actually calls for a rebuild, just cant remember what page I read that on

such as? what's screwed up?

and that's what i'm looking for. that solid list that's tried and true. Most people are looking or trying for way more HP increase then me. I'm an american V8 guy, don't know these to much, other then you approach the way you add power to them completely different. lol While the NOS would be nice, i'm looking for every day usable power that's there from start up. lol would be fun to add later on just to mess with. lol Idk what my power is right now, never dynoed it. But assuming(yes i know) it was close to the stock 170 awhile back, going to 200 would be a bigimprovement. about a 20% increase isn't a bad gain. Going back to my other thread, probably need a good rebuild anyways. Powers down, mpgs suck, 1-2 quarts of oil every 200 miles. which drops my oil psi when it gets low, and i don't catch it or have time/way to fix it right away. So i was thinking while i was in there doing the rebuild, might as well do the work to get more out of it if it's gonna already be torn apart. 1 reason i mentioned pistons, re install the old 1's no real difference then putting in Flats at that point and the head gasket is gonna be need either way also. I know the head needs work and would be a big improvement, but idk of any L series shops around me that are reputable to have work it over. The E fans are just to get back some parasite loss. would go light flywheel when i'd do the 5 speed swap( who i would kill for a damn OD right now!) make 200hp crank is no good if ya loose 5-10 from drag of various things before it ever makes it to the tires After driving the car for awhile, i've noticed how fast it was/ could be with about 30hp extra and i think that may be good enough. I've done upgrades and seen what a 30hp bump can really do. With suspension work and few fiberglass parts to drop some extra weight it'd be pretty bad just as is. V8 may be cheaper initially but after i start doing work to that ( cause we never stop!) and breaking all the stuff that comes with those power levels it will coast alt mode in the end. lol

Its a all stock, numbers matching everything, short of radio and new alternator, 3 new injectors. AC compressor and bumpers removed (weighs in at 2560 with out me). 1976 280z 4 speed. owned it for 16 months. im 3rd owner. Tore it apart and only found rust on and around the door hinges, couldn't find anything else where, I looked hard being a 40yr old car and the typical rust these have. She is my daily driver. Never do any racing as I need to do the suspension work first. Engine trouble has taken priority though. I do occasionally romp on her when im feeling antys. usually a 6k 1st and 2nd shift. When I first got her she would chirp the tires dry in first and pulled a lot harder. can defiantly tell she is down on power. I don't even romp on it anymore with the oil and oil pressure issue related to that. just normal driving around town will burn up 1-2 quarts in 200 miles. I don't doubt she isn't running rich also, but the plugs I pulled were defiantly oil coated not fuel. Had the thick oily carbon build up. Smelled more like oil then fuel also, probably cause they couldn't have been fireing worth a shit at that rate. also had oil pooled on the threads of the plug ports when I pulled them. Replaced them at the store and drove home 6 miles, pulled them right after getting out the car and they were already back to burnt and kinda oily. put 180 miles on in since then and its used another quart and still getting the same MPG.

So going along with my other thread, might be tearing down the L28 for a rebuild. While im in there was figuring I could do some work to pick up a few HP also. Not looking for crazy high 200 whp numbers. Just a 20-30 bump at the crank. Car runs great when she is at full (stock) power, just thinking a few extra would do it right. Might save me from a 5.3 swap witch i have planned. My question is whats the best route? This will be a daily driver and rarely see 5k+ rpm on a regular basis. Ive seen and looked all these threads on heads and headers and ECU's and such. But they all kinda spiral out into other things and never really give that good of info on what im looking for. Plus by the time im through with a few hours of searching different things my heads all confused with all the different stuff that gets brought up and said. Just a simple mild build for some extra ponies. I was thinking: L28 Flat tops & 1mm head gasket for a 9.9:1~ CR (since im gonna have it torn down anyways) Good header and new exhaust Clean up the intake with some actual hard pipe and high flow filter ( some for looks, but the rubber hose kills air flow) Do MS and probably run Coil on plug GM coils just cause i have GM vehicles and can easily get 6 coils. (plus that set up looks pretty cool) Gonna do E fans and Alt upgrade mod either way. Have parts for a Turbo build but is it really worth that if this can give me what im looking for? Figure some of the gods of the L28 could shed there wisdom, Tony D and the likes.

You got down close to the numbers Im showing with the broken ring and land? And Its fouling the hell out of the plugs. brand new plugs are already burnt up and fouled after only 200 miles. Plus the 1 quart of oil its burned since then. #1,5 & 6 seem to be the big culprits. Those were the worst plugs. They latterly had a caked on oily crude that I couldn't even get off with a wire brush, I tired to clean them up so see if I could get an idea of just how bad they were. Slightly fouled or way way gone for a long time....they were wayyyyyy gone. So that tells me I got a big problem with those 3 at least. I was thinking it could be the valve seals, but could they be that bad to go thru 1 quart or more in 200 miles? with the low performance I was thinking more towards it being the rings and a loss of CR in the cylinders along with the fouling and "2 cycling" of the engine.

Yea ive looked at a lot of threads on this. It all starts out with this is what I got for mine, then people go to well my engine has this, but ive got this work and that work done to it. Seems nobody has just a stocker l28 anymore. lol and it varyies from 160-220 some people say. and that's just to big of a range to nail down and use as the base line. Im hoping its just the valve seals, be a lot easier then pulling the pistons. Gonna pull the valve cover tomorrow and see what its looking like in there. The one thing I noticed in all my digging, no body's numbers were as low as mine, basically 130 across the board.

Hello all I was wondering if anyone had the bone stock Nissan facotry l28e compression test numbers? Cant find anything on what there supposed to be stock. Every thread is my engine is this or mine runs that. Google isn't helping me out at all for stock numbers. Im now at going thru a quart of oil every 150-200 miles (oil psi drops to nothing at idle by this point from lack of volume) so I know something is off. Plugs look like crap even after new and 150~ miles. Thinking its the rings since it does smoke a little bit. lol 13.7 mpg average and powers down from when I originally bought it for sure. compression test numbers are 1-130 2-125 3-125 4-125 5-120 6-122 engine was warm after drive and cylinders seemed pretty wet just from the normal driving already. Any help is appreciated.

or just blow cold air on the IC from a vent tube off the AC already there. could work a lil bit. haha

2560lbs!!!!! with out me in it. Got the car weighed at a local scale house today. Thats all stock panels, junk in the back and no AC or bumpers. That's awesome! well on my way to my 2550-2600lb finished goal

In what you said about the 280z having more steel, i was thinking part of that may have been in the body its self(like with crash bar in the doors) so i was worried about taking all of that out by accident

yes. strut bars are on my "definitely" list. Im going to keep the truck style intake for its tourqe factor so im undecided on the front bar. ill have to make a custom cowl/corvette type hood(will be a great ram air setup). Not sure i can run a traditional bar with that. Maybe do some triangulation and tie them into where the old hood latch is(going with pins)?

Not going full sticky, this will be street driven a lot more then tracked. Probably just some really good P zero's or maybe some cheater slicks. Thanks for your input, ill look into those frame rails. Probably not going cage just yet. If I start getting serious with the track then defiantly.