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hooahh3

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Everything posted by hooahh3

  1. Ive checked everywhere I can on forums, got an ls1 intake but didn't realize the entire map sensor bung was missing out the back....it was dark, I was in a hurry, I screwed up!!!! These pieces aren't sold individually so its either find one or get a new intake....fml So if anyone has one please get up with me, I know this should be in parts wanted, but most people skip over that section or it gets buried very quickly in all the other listings....and im desperate at this point, cant go any further with out this. Gonna have to scrounge a whole new intake if I cant find this stupid little &^*m piece that GM decided to never sell alone, making people buy new intakes defiantly makes more money....
  2. So im running the tourque app for gauges in the 280Z with 5.3/4l60e swap. Due to my old tablet dieing I have to get a new one and reload the app. Cant get to old app or data. Same problem as last time, standard oil pressure guage doesn't work for the car. Last time I was able to find one online that worked but for the life of me I cant find it again. 221470 and 22115c do not work. Is there anyone out there who has run into this problem and has the right pid that I can program in? Also if anyone has this running, what all extras and setup do you have? App will do a lot of stuff, a lot of it is not working on mine, probably due to the swap and reflashing and stuff. Maybe its just a PID setup problem on my end though. Always up to see others work. Any help would be appreciated, kinda need to know the oil pressure obviously. lol Its a 2006 GMC Savanah ECM flashed by LT1swap.com if that matters any.
  3. I did the re wiring on it. well i stripped down the stick harness and cleaned it up. The PCM is different then the original, had to get one that's run DBC. So i'll check that out, i did swap around two coils to T/S the miss' sand so far it seems to be good. Still pops on decel though. i just haven't had time to mess with it lately. Transmission has been getting all the attention
  4. I was wondering if anyone in the area has hptuners and wouldn't mind helping me out. Got the car running but i'm sure it needs a tune from the stock one. I'd definitely be up for buying the credits to do it and throwing some money in for the time and effort if anyone has the software already. Thanks for any help
  5. if what i've learned about the GV overdrive is right, it should be do able with just the push button switch. Manual valve body in the PG. go first hit button for GV move to 2nd and hit button to turn off GV at same time hit button again when 4th is needed Don't exactly quote me on this as i've only been able to piece together this information; i'd like to do a GV myself but can't do the 2500$ for one any time soon. so the 4l60E is staying around awhile longer. It would be awesome to have the full manual aspect though. especially an auto/manual for just cruising around
  6. ok so i've basically narrowed it down to when it's wheel driving the engine. Any coasting that put the engine being driven by the back tires, really bad down hill. So that would put it on the i take and exhaust system right? Both are very free flowing and it's just sucking in more air then the computer can compensate for on a stock tune during coasting and engine braking. Right??? Seem to be re thinking every thing i thought i knew here with this damn problem. lol
  7. Inside engine bay, where the old clutch cylinder was, right beside the brake master cylinder under that inspection panel. It works with the stock GM harness i have(5.3l truck) and i just wrapped all the wires in loom and it looks decent, no show car completely clean engine bay here with me.
  8. I can read the voltage for them both but not the actual AFR. There new stock type narrow bands. Im just trying figure out what could throw both banks off together, always both banks. Maybe two bad O2 sensors, both purchased brand new for this engine though.
  9. Ok guys, need some ideas here. Got the 5.3 (2005 w/4l60e) running and driving but its giving me P0171 and P0174 codes; Both banks lean. The tourqe app im using also picked up cylinder 1, 7, & 8 misfires ranging from 14-24 times. It will run great, but if I get on it hard or floor it and let off, it pops and shoots me some flames out the exhaust (both very considerably!) then throws the codes Ive changed knock sensors and that code is gone Swapped in good MAF sensor and that went away (new one of those bought tomorrow) Done a TB gasket Checked Fuel pressure at rail. Holding at 60+ psi for full throattle range ( only parked though, not able to check while driving) Tried to spray for any leaks and couldn't find any vacuum leaks At this point im down to swapping around those 3 coils, will swap the wires around too if that doesn't give me anything, or then swapping the injectors around. Run a compression test next if that doesn't work. Im about 80% certain the lean condition is coming from those missfires Has anyone had and fixed this problem with something other then what I have/will try? Im kinda out of ideas if the coils/injectors/compression doesn't turn up anything. Unfortuantly ls1tech crashes on my browser so im SOL on that wealth of knowledge. Cant read shit when its freezing and reloading every 3 minutes.
  10. true, re reading my post I kinda didn't ask the simple question I should have. does the water pump turn clockwise or ccw? from what I can gather its suppose to be clockwise from the factory right?, the crank and water pump are supposed to spin opposite directions correct? (this as facing the engine from front of car)
  11. so im finishing up my 5.3 install, come to a snag with the serpentine belt though. deleted powersteering and that messed up my belt routing. Ive seen peoples routing of it without but set up like that it makes the pump run backwards direction from original. my question is, A ) will these pumps run backwards or universal I guess you could say B ) if not, then how are you guys running it to get it to work right w/o power steering pulley there? thanks for any help
  12. Personally i'm in the middle of my build now with dirty dingo. Product looks great, offers a lot of adjustment forward/aft ( almost 2" i'd say) they bolt in to the exsisting eng mount studs on the crossmember. could also weld them up afterwards if you wanted i suppose. They can be ordered with a wrinkle black finish and we're like 170-180$ shipped iirc. as far as tranny mounts go, idk i made my own. a lot cheaper and a lot more sturdy to me. 3/16th plates and angle iron and 3/4 square tube and bolted thru the frame rails Headers are stockers that have been worked over to custom fit. after i decide turbo or supercharged i'll make my own custom headers or not. Idk right off hand any set of headers that have been proven to work with DD mounts in the 280 and clear steering with no work.
  13. I just got it in. at work away from home till tuesday. i'll post a pic of it on here when i get home. If you wanted to just make the old pickup tube work instead of buying 1. it'd be a really good deal. it was easier to just buy mine though. 260$ for the whole kit is a good deal. did you buy that from a company on ebay?
  14. Ok. so put one on it. Now the hunt is on for 1. that will fit and work and not be a real PITA to get hooked up and mounted. has anyone tried or had any luck with the tube style coolers? plate style with a fan is the best but if i can't get one of those to go might have to use a tube style. Radiator will not have one. its just a old recored unit for now to get it driving. also, what are the fitting sizes for the lines down there? gonna need to screw in some 90* fittings and get rid of gm's clip style connections for sure. she's tucked up tight to the tunnel, no room for that style hook up
  15. So getting into this part of my build and want some feed back from you guys Was going to just block off the transmission cooler lines and let it be for now. just a street car for now with no big plans on racing it for awhile till it's built for that and i decided to go strip or road race. i've seen some guys say it's worked great for them, other swear you gotta have one. So who is or isn't running 1? how's it working out for you? If you are, what are you running to make it work?
  16. Oh and just an FYI for people, rock auto has ls1 pans for 160$ it's a doorman part but it's still the 5.5" 5qt pan for the 5.7l. under 2000 camaro. for anyone who may have been looking for 1. A new pick up tube and gasket with cut down windage tray total was like 220$. a lot cheaper then the 300$+ for the kits i've seen
  17. ok. gotcha. seen the pic there. seems simple enough. Thanks for the help. Go figure it's an ls1tech write up. I hate that site, it always crashes for me every 5mins and has to be reloaded. lol
  18. You don't by chance know what post or where to cut it do you? 5 minutes with a wheel and a new pan for 155$ sounds a lot better then 300$+ for a whole new kit
  19. Will the stock lm7 windage tray work with the ls1 pan? I'd guess not since everyone swaps them over together, but if it will actually work it'd be a nice way to cut down on time and some money spent. I know you can make the old dip stick work with the new pan, and that's just leave a pick up tube to buy. probably less then 200$ for the whole set up, including new pan.
  20. yes. pretty much exactly that. an all in 1 package and just run 2 lines to the radiator area and that's it. I can't run the JCI AC kit so i gotta figure out something different
  21. Can't find it right off hand now, but isn't there a brand that even has the compressor inside the box under the dash? and all you run are the lines and condenser to the engine bay? I swear i looked those up before
  22. awesome, thanks for the info guys How are you liking that vintage air unit? Definitely want to get one of those or any self contained under dash units. How is the figment under the dash on the Z cars?
  23. Thanks man. those are the exact things I was looking for. I always forget NAPA when searching parts stores. Im just looking for the heater hose in the engine bay side. gotta get at least the heat going for now in the winter with this swap.
  24. Where are you guys finding these 90* elbows that are hose only? Everything ive looked up is a hard fitting that's male/male. Ive seen guys on here with the hose style that just slips on the exsisting car fittings but cant find them anywhere on the web like that. (granted ive probably missed them in my searching) searching anything on here with the words " heater hose elbow" or any combonation there of brings up every damn thread to ever mention those words. lol wich is not getting me any where on finding out where to buy them If anyone has the store or part numbers from there purchase id greatly appreciate it Thank you
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