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Barrel_Ball last won the day on July 13 2016

Barrel_Ball had the most liked content!

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About Barrel_Ball

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    Junior Member
  • Birthday 02/25/1988

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    Calgary, AB, Canada

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  1. Thanks for the advice. I did as you said, and redid my timing map from scratch. It idles pretty decent for the most part. Idles better than it did previously, even. I guess I'm beginning my learning curve from scratch, too.
  2. Hey everyone. I'll be the first to say in this topic that I have no idea what I'm doing anymore. Car's popping out the intake, running super rich, falls on its face, appears to have just killed an injector (which I'll be replacing this weekend)... Details (what I know): L28ET: 0.020" bore, fully balanced rotating assembly, 5-angle valve machining, self-oiled 'A' grind cam, minor port cleanup, fortified with ARP hardware. Nissan 45v1 turbo (R33 Gts-t, similar in flow characteristics to stock turbo) Equal length header For
  3. Progress time! I looked around for options on dash restoration/replacement, but the one option I was going for turned out to have shut down due to a fire that took out all their stuff. One source of new/refurbished dashes was way too rich for my blood, and while I did find a far less expensive source for reproductions, I figured "what's the point if I'm modifying it anyway?" I decided to rebuild it myself. Polyvance makes something called 'Fiberflex' which is a polymer brazing rod that's reinforced with glass and carbon. It cools hard, but somewhat pliable, a
  4. Hey y'all. I just replied to your PM, but I'm going to say this here so others know so far: I haven't had a chance to drive the car yet 'cause it's in pieces, but I ran the engine a bunch of times. Cylinders 4 & 5 leaned out from injector failure and caused those runners to glow, but no cracks so far! That old video showed the car running using a performance world resonator and a yoshimura muffler from a bike. I used regular stainless mandrel bends for this header, but if you're going to use MIG, I found from experience that schedule-10 stainless is more forgiving
  5. Hey, folks! Been a busy, long few months or so, but much has happened in life, and with the project, so here we go! That climate panel I was developing last time? It's pretty much finished, except I kinda got carried away with an arduino board and some neopixel rings for visual appeal and ergonomics: The heater control knob has a blue LED ring that sweeps red as you turn up the heat, while the Fan control knob has a purple ring that sweeps turquoise. Figured I'd use those colors for contrast. Also finished, is the tail light installation! Did you know that a well-
  6. To start with, here's a rundown on the setup: '78 280z -L28ET, 0.5mm overbore, ITM pistons, full internal balance -Late 'A' grind cam from a late Z/early ZX -Rebuilt head: Minor port cleanup and 5 angle valve cut -'76 non-emmissions intake, stock turbo TB with 240SX TPS -Custom equal length header with Nissan 45v1 turbo (R33 GTS-25t), 8 psi wastegate actuator -Denso 440cc fuel injectors (Mk3 Supra) with stock Z resistor pack Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator set to 26 psi @idle, rises to 30 psi when throttled -Ford EDIS 6 ignition system: E
  7. It's one of these controllers. 10-55v DC motor controller. You can get them on bangood for next to nothing, or your local electronics parts store might carry them. Comes with a 100k ohm switching pot, and a directional switch (which I eliminated). It's quite a nice piece, and fits inside the modified stock slide bracket like a glove.
  8. This past week, I got ahead with climate control. The HVAC unit is a vintage air gen 2 mini with defrost. Not content with using the available slide controls, I decided to make my own. Blower speed is now controlled by a variable PWM motor controller. It has a knob (100k ohm potentiometer) with a built-in on/off switch. Very slick. Mode switch is a fan switch from a late fox body mustang, 4 pin, 4 position (originally 0,1,2,3). The heater control valve is a 10k ohm potentiometer - 5k works, too. The panel is just the OEM panel wit
  9. Ever considered making them powered? I had the idea of making powered fender mirrors, myself, before going a different direction (powered door-mounted units from a ZX). My idea was going to use a motor assembly from a late-model VW/Audi, since they're a really small, dome-shaped unit. Food for thought... Like this...
  10. STR 523 in 15x8", 0 offset, wrapped in Cooper CS5 Ultra Touing 205/65R15 Also, custom graphics on the outer lip...
  11. I managed to get a few minutes in the garage last week to test fit my tail lights before I started to freeze, and I'm very happy with how it's going to look. You may have also noticed a different set of wheels in earlier pictures, with one of them showing up in this update. These are STR 523 six spokes (15x8", 0 offset). These were the closest thing I could get to a 280zx wheel that was bigger than 14", but I like them. Anyway, I had a crazy idea, and called up my friend with his vinyl cutter... This is supposed to be a cross between Datsun's
  12. Now, onto the interior: First off, sound deadening has been replaced with a better, more modern substitute. Maybe this car's interior will be quieter than the last... Next, odds and ends: Throttle pedal from a Lexus IS300 with brake and clutch pedal pads from a Subaru WRX ('08-'14). Door switches from the back of an X-Trail (back doors) modified with a screw in the end to bring them out far enough for the door to meet. Also, Mustang mirror switch where the dual switch blank was (yes, power mirrors!) Also, those carbon wrapped upper
  13. I'm putting this next part of the update in a separate post to avoid cluttered posts, so let's continue! First on this post: Ignition system! After having bad experiences in the past with failed 280ZX turbo optical distributors (and how hard they are to come by), I decided to upgrade away from a dizzy system altogether, and am going to an EDIS install. While there are trigger wheel kits out there, they're kind of a pain when you have to remove said trigger wheel or sensor just to change a belt, only to have to reset your timing and stuff afterwards, so I went a di
  14. Hey folks! Having moved back to Calgary towards the end of 2017, I've gotten kinda busy with the car again. Here we go! First up: Bodywork: Around January, last year, we got to finishing the sheet metal repair, body filler and primer. The door jambs, hatch and windshield cavities have been painted body color to make it easier to blend later when the car finally gets painted. The fenders have also been done, but not pictured. Next up, HVAC: I decided to ditch the old heater box system, since I have zero confidence in the longevity of the original heater core, and went w
  15. So... in this second update, today, we're gonna talk about tail lights, which is in a different post because I don't want this to get lost in a post about sheet metal. I decided to go this route instead of the PT-Cobalt (HHR) tail lights, because they sat too deep into the vehicle, and interfered with the fuel tank vent lines, and they stuck out from the panel more than I would like, so here we are. To start with, I tried a little experiment with that Q-bond adhesive, learning that it's actually a cohesive, which can melt/weld polycarbonate lenses together. I started off by taking
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