didier

Hi, Matt I think you have to look for copper gasket, uncompressible, and you'll be sure not to kill your pistons. many thickness avalaible, it seems 0.27 ( 0.7 mm) is the right size for the quench, that's what i 'll put in mine, larger, and you loose the benefits anti-knock . don't worry with the aluminium cover, 0.10 mm is not a problem with flat surface an sand paper, you can use loctite gasket joint and get no leak at all. Tony was right with the clay test, you can also use chewing gum !!ah :!

Good job , Matt, you could have made it with epoxy,lighter, stronger, but costy !

Tony D : racers index the manifolds to the head using dowels, not the bolt holes! that's a good reason for making the best alignment you can !

Hi , Matt I bought your book last month( incredible sum of good informations ) and a MS2 last year ( assembled but not yet in the car, at DIY AUTOTUNE ), and i agree with you: some people want plug and play ECUs without searching inside their brain . I don't trust " professional people " speaking about products they don't know anything . regards from France Didier

Where did you see that ? powerdyn need a DIY inductive coil around one HT spark plug wire, and records the data with a wave file or other one I think nothing is better than a trigger wheel on the crank shaft for accuracy, with a VR or Hall effect sensor A perfect square wave signal with no noise ,megasquirt will read rpm without any problem, much better that an old inertial dyno. If you want tune your engine, you'll have to find a steady state dyno. (Not so much in France )

Hi, amazing engine, congratulations for your work just a question : did you put the Z-196 isky cam in your head ?

very usefull, thanks

thank you for your experience, good to know !!

ah ah ! heating values : Kilojoules/ kg : gasoline : 43,,,,,E 85 : 29 !!

The main problem in the L engine head design is the internal casting, with a horizontal web leading to a poor vertical coolant flow toward the block, I get N42, N47 and P90 on the bench, and i have made water flow tests, it's a real s....t I think hot spots in the 5 or 6 th are a legend, hot spots everywhere in these castings "reverse flow "

Hi, Mathieu I think you MUST disasemble your engine, Mr Ruschman 's thoughts are the right way, xxxx$ spent in your head , i should want to be sure it will work. The good process is start FROM ZERO , clean every parts, and rebuild . in French : te fais pas chier , Mathieu, démontes tout, nettoies, et remontes !! I can help you if you want !

Not a good idea, the restrictor is press fit, if you make it too loose, it will drop down , and i think it's not avalaible even in stock size. " pourquoi faire simple , quand on peut faire compliqué" " why make things easy, when you can make complications "

The best would be to work with your block on the bench, but i know it's still in the car, Your pump is removed,So you should blow air pressure in the oiling funnel going to the filter ,while you drill, the chips jumping out in your face !!!

Ah ! ah! Tony, I have some problems to understand subtleties and humoristics sentences. For now, i'm reading Frank Honsowetz's book, and it's good information , Regards, best wishes from France, I return to the restoration of my 260 Z 2+2, bye bye

Sorry, absolutely unintelligible for a foreigner ( french ) trying to be at your level . are you joking, are you angry ?

OK guys, i think not drilling the upper hole is a "pressure behind the tensionner" question . the problem is closed with the Kameari system

there are TWO restrictors holes,one above the chaintensioner location, and one in the midle of the block. You can drill two 3mm holes, If you get a good stock pump, the flow would be correct, pressure can be modified with shims under the spring

Hi, Mathieu looking at your pics, i think your pump is absolutely dead . If you want one, i'll give you mine, in good shape, i'm in a project of dry sump pump system . regards Didier

OK and what about copper gaskets ? do you use them with succes?

Will you please take a photo of your face with the headset ? I WANNA LAUGH !!!

Thank you so much for the photos, i understand how it works how much is the deepth of the grooves for O rings ? what metal ? stainless steel or inconel ? I think there's a difference with HKS metal gasket ( conventional shape ) and this one Nismo with separated parts . Sometimes ago , i have seen Formula 1 V10 Peugeot/Prost head opened, and there was Orings with grooves for the bores, and grooves all around the head for soft gasket ( water and oil ).it was impressive quality of work I think the Nismo is expensive but i will try to contact theme excuse my bad english regards Didier

who knows something about nissan motorsport race parts : O ring headgasket, needing block machining ? any picture ? I will overbore my L28 to 90 mm and don't find the 91 mm HKS headgasket 2 or 1 mm, no longer produced ? how could i get one for France ? Didier

salut Mathieu Je ne comprends pas ce creux de pauvreté à 2500 t/mn. Et toujours cette richesse entre 4500 et 5500,je pense que c'est un accord qui se situe là , un résonance, et qui remplit mieux, donc plus d'air ?

Don't give up, Mathieu, you are on the right way !