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HybridZ

280Z-LS3

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Posts posted by 280Z-LS3


  1. I butchered up a pair of transverse link mounts at an attempt to design some cross bracing.  Did not go well as expected so have a replacement set on the way.  While employing my "hack skills" noticed that Datsun used some hard alloy.  Anyone know what type of steel Datsun used and recommended/required welding and rod that should be used?


  2. Haven't had the time to read through all the numerous posts on different forums.  Grannyknot has a Vue/Equinox swap and he has posted his favorable experience with high performance driving setting.  Maybe he can chime in with more detail on his experience with the Vue swap

     

    5 hours ago, grannyknot said:

    I love the wreckers, hard to beat a great price like that.

    Agreed.  Now for a few more dollars hoping to have a great system.

     

     


  3. Building the roll cage is on the near horizon and that has me thinking of brackets off knee bar for steering column and maybe for Tilton pedals.  I want electric power steering so started thinking of which EPS swap to use.  After reading just a fraction of the info on web I decided to go with the 2002-2007 Saturn Vue option.  Went down to the local u-pick yard and grabbed a 2007 Vue column for $65.  Will order up a Bruno controller with variable assist knob off eBay.  For now I am going to assume that I will retain the same OEM column length dimension to fit seat which is need to fit roll bar tubing.  Still reading how others have adapted and installed the EPS unit so have not decided exactly which method and parts to use.

     

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  4. Thanks guys.

     

    Becoming more confident as I continuing to read the vast info available about the EPS swaps. 

    As of now leaning toward the Vue/Equinox column with Bruno controller and either using stock upper column or aftermarket.  Don't know if I'd like the "fail safe" mode with it's flat constant assist especially at high speed.  A variable assist would be best.  Wonder if there is a way to custom program variable assist based on VVS signal?  Need to spend some time reading all the info on Vintage Mustang forums.

     

    Don't know if it's relevant that my front suspension is slightly different than stock Z (2015 Mustang spindle front suspension with 275 front tires) when it comes to how assist is dialed in for kits like Silvermine.  It's a variable but is it large enough to make any real difference...


  5. 1 hour ago, fusion said:

    Any reason you aren't considering an off the shelf EPS solution?

     

    Looking at Silvermine's EPS kit.  It uses an ATV electric motor from what I gather.  That is not necessarily a bad thing, just not OEM proven reliability.  Which off shelf solution do you suggest?

     

    My knowledge on EPS stuff is limited though eager learn.  Looks like the popular OEM swap units, either those that operate in fail safe mode or need a 3rd party controller, are too short thus only good for hybrid adaptation into columns.  


  6. Searching for those with experience using a compete donor EPS column.  There are plenty of well documented conversions but they combine portions of both the stock column and donor column to make a hybrid column.  I have Tilton pedals so the stock pedal box will be not used.  Custom support brackets need to be made so why not just make them fit a compete donor column?  Also, plan on a quick disconnect hub for removable steering wheel so there will not be much of the stock column left if were to go the hybrid column route.  My first thought is looking for a EPS column with similar firewall to steering wheel distance as my 280Z.  Would be nice if the donor columns proven for use in the hybrid conversions could work as stand alone by themselves.

     

    Thanks in advance for your thoughts


  7. Cary, I like the torque box idea.  

     

    13 hours ago, tube80z said:

    I think you have a couple options.  You can do it in tube similar to what you have or was used on BJHines car.  The other is to make a larger torsion box out of sheet in similar thickness as the rest of the car

     

    Do you think 18 or 20 gauge is best for a torque boxes?  Have you ever calculated what a Mustang type torque box could do for a S30 chassis?  I have a 68 Mustang and will analyze the design tomorrow.  From what I recall the bottom of the torque box is made of substantial plate, at least 11 gauge.  That would certainly also help with a side impact transferring the force to the frame rail and wheel collapsing back up into the foot area from off center front impact just like the TC bucket to rocker support bar does.   

     

    Trying to envision the benefit of boxing the upper frame horn, a-pillar and rocker.  Is it just adding more support to the upper frame?  Boxing this area is easy and does not interfere with any current plans.

     

    Here are some pics of front end bracing I did on my 68 Mustang.  The torque boxes are clearly visible and honestly at the time thought they only consisted of the thick sheet metal connecting the rocker to the frame rail on the under side.  Never gave them much thought other than the early Mustangs did not have any, the 1967 had only one side then Ford decided both sides should get them in 1968 .  In the cabin the floor pan angles up toward the firewall and on the wheel well side the angled up floor pan is clearly boxed in.   

    A007261C-090B-4EC9-85F6-B1B3D1BE8CCC.jpeg.8e2001e47e5bde337c999dd12ab2d49a.jpeg

     

    The top tube against the firewall which forms the base of the strut tower triangle runs across the top of firewall just under sheetmetal lip providing support for the strut tower to firewall  "export brace".

    D13E1E53-C9A3-4FC3-8F03-974CEB6CF683.jpeg.1b83990ec8e225179c44b1dcdaa64b80.jpeg


  8. Cringing at the description of that crash.  Does not take much to get into trouble.  Physics is a bitch...

     

    I am stealing many elements of bjhines' cage and chassis stiffening.  Tying the TC buckets to rockers, upper frame horns to rockers and strut tower to above sway bar frame rail area with 1.5"x0.065" DOM.  I think this size tubing will give enough strength while minimizing additional weight.

     

    imageproxy-1_php.jpeg.e79ad1a2d6fcb2ee855844d070541e17.jpeg

     

    I think you are suggesting adding a tube from rocker (connected to the TC tube) to frame rail along the floor pan where it starts to angle up which is easy to do.  Adding structure from rocker to trans tunnel under seats is easy too but how to carry that strength across the trans tunnel?  Any ideas other than trans mount?  Having the driveline and exhaust mocked up will certainly help determine what is possible. 

     

     

     


  9. Started in on the chassis stiffening base plates.  Formed up some brackets/base plates made of 12 gauge (0.101") to slip over the frame rails to support the roll bar area and to wrap the top portion of strut towers.

     

    6772C3F3-898E-4667-9053-F005AA732261.jpeg.528467c160507d5516a22aa4825f4d43.jpeg

    412C12BA-1E58-4196-A0D4-1EE1607BEA81_1_201_a.thumb.jpeg.8c07d6b9328f267ea6cd83517d836357.jpeg

     

    I tack welded the plate on then muscled them a bit to start wrapping around tower.  After about 30 degrees of wrap needed a BFH to wrap to a point where a clamp could finish drawing the plate to the tower.

    38D1219A-7B9E-4709-8841-48D6F933E1C7.jpeg.43c7401e4f0da3973fb29b2c3014e3a0.jpeg

     

    57CA54C6-8532-41FD-AC30-CCD7A595B102.jpeg.2dd626239290b84031e355b3162d45bc.jpeg

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    Been thinking about transverse link bracing/re-enforcement.  Ordered up some tubing which should arrive in a few days.  Here is the rough idea.  Would also like to add tubing in a X shape between link mounts but need to get the diff back in to verify clearance.  

     

    500D5F27-168B-4D8F-96E8-D39708F049F5.jpeg.dd01a6ecc98bf7b5ff2e7b17274928b3.jpeg

     

     


  10. I placed the stock yoke in a vice to hold while removing pinion nut and reinstalling new yoke.

    Follow the directions for the Ford kit I mentioned in an earlier post.  Basically, measure the torque to rotate pinion gear before removing nut and try to match that amount when installing the new yoke.  Torque and check in increments so you don't over shoot.  Over shooting will further crush the crush sleeve which will then require replacement, that means tearing the whole diff down.


  11. Finished up the seam stitch welding, what a time consuming job!  I approximate at least 20-30 hrs invested, maybe more.  Also welded in the Bad Dog frame rails and subframe connectors but before doing so I leveled the body on jack stands just to make sure no stress was flexing the body.  Noticed a big increase in body stiffness while re-leveling on the stands after stitch welding.  The first initial leveling to prepare for stitch welding the body would flex to sit on jack stands and after it pivots on the higher points.  Conformation that all that time and effort was not spent for nothing

     

    I welded in the Bad Dog frame rails last because was contemplating incorporating some captive nuts inside the rails for the trans mount.  After giving that idea more thought the complexity of pulling that off just killed my motivation.  Instead going to build the trans mount off of some extra support structure for the floor pan.  The bottom of the S30 chassis is a weak point and would like to address this while cutting up the trans tunnel to fit the Cobra Suzuka seat (my 1975 has the intruding bulge into the driver's seat area).  Heavy85, a member here, crashed his Z into a small boulder field during a hill climb event.  He posted an in car video and after math photos.  His crash hammered home the need to build some strength and crash protection below the passenger seats.  Getting ahead of myself a bit as this has yet to be design...  Here are some pics of progress to date.

     

    Some weld thru primer before install of frame rails

    CADA6099-9FF2-4ABC-867A-B0592D0ECE99.jpeg.56e3a989e5d22495a7203a5e30f96140.jpeg

     

     

    Some standard primer on inside of BD frame rails.  The drilled holes fit over the stock weep holes and were welded to close gap between frame rail.

    8E2F1A1C-DA67-449D-B996-362BE2C1389C.jpeg.de93d8e14c4ebc5a565bc9aacc48d9bb.jpeg

     

    979C7FC9-5761-40EC-A755-14F3C6D5B425.jpeg.781c886d3fbc0131df1fab4a1d5ebebd.jpeg

     

    Had to remove the stock roll bar mount tabs for welding clearance.  That's okay since the new rear bar will most likely mount behind diff.

    6A659449-EED0-4CDD-912D-F5DDC8169B33.jpeg.8ec6882014bb050cea125268da8d6af3.jpeg

     

    Welded the portion of plate beneath connector first.

    C95923C8-14BF-4DA5-9138-DBF7CEF7F92E.jpeg.ac1d04f5e1c41af63950cd978e94a42f.jpeg

     

    Again leveled body on jack stands before tacking connectors in place.

    45B7A428-DF9A-4D9D-9826-62D30ED67628.jpeg.829f47a344862b4829785cf27c7f8376.jpeg

     

    Finished product.

     

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    042CF2E5-E4BE-4409-AEBF-D71EEC81B3CB.jpeg.55d9536e249e89dfc2f03af6092af022.jpeg

    6077FDD3-C7B8-4170-9D4C-539C3E4EEAC5.jpeg.96ef05d657cc00416914696579abcd5f.jpeg

     

    Off to get a beer, Cheers!

     

     

     

     


  12. Thanks jhm, I have seen those pics and stealing plenty of ideas, lol.  Of particular interest is bjhines's car/cage he built back in 2006, I like his cross bar that contours firewall just below windshield.  I can just see myself wasting a bunch of tubing trying to get that bar fit properly...  I would like to have the front strut towers triangulated off that bar.  I don't plan on having a node at that point taking load back to rear strut towers because it will intrude on passenger space.  Not the best design but compromises are going to be made.  But that's a whole different conversation...

     

    Since my plan for the Z is a street legal car I plan to target autocross, HPDE and maybe Time Attack.  If I decide to go deeper into competition, and have not broken too many rules with all modifications, I'd like to know my cage is legal.  But first and fore most want it provide safety.


  13. Going to start chassis stiffening and would like guidance on tube and plate thickness.  

     

    My main cage will be DOM 1.75"x0.095".  I hope to be under 2800 lbs. but figured better safe than sorry.  What is minimum plate thickness for boxes that support main bar and forward a-pillar bar?  I believe 2020 SCCA rules say between 0.080" and 0.25".

     

    Tube size and thickness for anything other than cage, DOM 1.5"x0.065"?

     

    And thickness for the additional chassis support plates for stiffening tube?.  Some areas I am considering are from radius arm bracket to rocker panel, wrapping front strut tower to support forward frame rail and rear ward roll cage tie ins, tops of rear shock towers.

     

     

    Edit:  Adding info from searches.

    Roll cage mounting plate min. of 0.080" thick, no more than 100 sq.in. and no less the 9 sq.in.

     


  14. Don't think I could incorporated a Flying Miata type brace into my build but also have not given thought to side pipes.  I like the idea of anything under the car hugging the floor pan.  Building added structure inside the cabin is interesting too.

     

    I have a Cobra Suzuka which the manufacturer states it does not require a back brace.  It's a fiberglass seat and don't know if they are compatible with rear bracing.

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