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Everything posted by 280Z-LS3

  1. Yes, the transverse mount brackets are the two flat 3.5" wide brackets to attach the rear transverse mount to the frame. I have not tested the transverse mount metal with punch or any other method so not sure if it is made of the same hard steel as the brackets.
  2. I butchered up a pair of transverse link mounts at an attempt to design some cross bracing. Did not go well as expected so have a replacement set on the way. While employing my "hack skills" noticed that Datsun used some hard alloy. Anyone know what type of steel Datsun used and recommended/required welding and rod that should be used?
  3. Haven't had the time to read through all the numerous posts on different forums. Grannyknot has a Vue/Equinox swap and he has posted his favorable experience with high performance driving setting. Maybe he can chime in with more detail on his experience with the Vue swap Agreed. Now for a few more dollars hoping to have a great system.
  4. Building the roll cage is on the near horizon and that has me thinking of brackets off knee bar for steering column and maybe for Tilton pedals. I want electric power steering so started thinking of which EPS swap to use. After reading just a fraction of the info on web I decided to go with the 2002-2007 Saturn Vue option. Went down to the local u-pick yard and grabbed a 2007 Vue column for $65. Will order up a Bruno controller with variable assist knob off eBay. For now I am going to assume that I will retain the same OEM column length dimension to fit seat which is need to fit roll bar tubing. Still reading how others have adapted and installed the EPS unit so have not decided exactly which method and parts to use.
  5. Picked a horse in the EPS race. Went down to the local u-pick yard and grabbed a 2007 Saturn Vue column for $65. Will order up a Bruno controller. Now just need to decide whether to use the OEM upper column or start fresh with an aftermarket column. That all depends on the ease of adapting a quick disconnect hub for the steering wheel on both columns
  6. Thanks guys. Becoming more confident as I continuing to read the vast info available about the EPS swaps. As of now leaning toward the Vue/Equinox column with Bruno controller and either using stock upper column or aftermarket. Don't know if I'd like the "fail safe" mode with it's flat constant assist especially at high speed. A variable assist would be best. Wonder if there is a way to custom program variable assist based on VVS signal? Need to spend some time reading all the info on Vintage Mustang forums. Don't know if it's relevant that my front suspension is slightly different than stock Z (2015 Mustang spindle front suspension with 275 front tires) when it comes to how assist is dialed in for kits like Silvermine. It's a variable but is it large enough to make any real difference...
  7. Looking at Silvermine's EPS kit. It uses an ATV electric motor from what I gather. That is not necessarily a bad thing, just not OEM proven reliability. Which off shelf solution do you suggest? My knowledge on EPS stuff is limited though eager learn. Looks like the popular OEM swap units, either those that operate in fail safe mode or need a 3rd party controller, are too short thus only good for hybrid adaptation into columns.
  8. Searching for those with experience using a compete donor EPS column. There are plenty of well documented conversions but they combine portions of both the stock column and donor column to make a hybrid column. I have Tilton pedals so the stock pedal box will be not used. Custom support brackets need to be made so why not just make them fit a compete donor column? Also, plan on a quick disconnect hub for removable steering wheel so there will not be much of the stock column left if were to go the hybrid column route. My first thought is looking for a EPS column with similar firewall to steering wheel distance as my 280Z. Would be nice if the donor columns proven for use in the hybrid conversions could work as stand alone by themselves. Thanks in advance for your thoughts
  9. Cary, I like the torque box idea. Do you think 18 or 20 gauge is best for a torque boxes? Have you ever calculated what a Mustang type torque box could do for a S30 chassis? I have a 68 Mustang and will analyze the design tomorrow. From what I recall the bottom of the torque box is made of substantial plate, at least 11 gauge. That would certainly also help with a side impact transferring the force to the frame rail and wheel collapsing back up into the foot area from off center front impact just like the TC bucket to rocker support bar does. Trying to envision the benefit of boxing the upper frame horn, a-pillar and rocker. Is it just adding more support to the upper frame? Boxing this area is easy and does not interfere with any current plans. Here are some pics of front end bracing I did on my 68 Mustang. The torque boxes are clearly visible and honestly at the time thought they only consisted of the thick sheet metal connecting the rocker to the frame rail on the under side. Never gave them much thought other than the early Mustangs did not have any, the 1967 had only one side then Ford decided both sides should get them in 1968 . In the cabin the floor pan angles up toward the firewall and on the wheel well side the angled up floor pan is clearly boxed in. The top tube against the firewall which forms the base of the strut tower triangle runs across the top of firewall just under sheetmetal lip providing support for the strut tower to firewall "export brace".
  10. Cringing at the description of that crash. Does not take much to get into trouble. Physics is a bitch... I am stealing many elements of bjhines' cage and chassis stiffening. Tying the TC buckets to rockers, upper frame horns to rockers and strut tower to above sway bar frame rail area with 1.5"x0.065" DOM. I think this size tubing will give enough strength while minimizing additional weight. I think you are suggesting adding a tube from rocker (connected to the TC tube) to frame rail along the floor pan where it starts to angle up which is easy to do. Adding structure from rocker to trans tunnel under seats is easy too but how to carry that strength across the trans tunnel? Any ideas other than trans mount? Having the driveline and exhaust mocked up will certainly help determine what is possible.
  11. Thanks Richard. Really enjoying building all the modifications and applying the knowledge I have learned here on HybridZ.
  12. Started in on the chassis stiffening base plates. Formed up some brackets/base plates made of 12 gauge (0.101") to slip over the frame rails to support the roll bar area and to wrap the top portion of strut towers. I tack welded the plate on then muscled them a bit to start wrapping around tower. After about 30 degrees of wrap needed a BFH to wrap to a point where a clamp could finish drawing the plate to the tower. Been thinking about transverse link bracing/re-enforcement. Ordered up some tubing which should arrive in a few days. Here is the rough idea. Would also like to add tubing in a X shape between link mounts but need to get the diff back in to verify clearance.
  13. I placed the stock yoke in a vice to hold while removing pinion nut and reinstalling new yoke. Follow the directions for the Ford kit I mentioned in an earlier post. Basically, measure the torque to rotate pinion gear before removing nut and try to match that amount when installing the new yoke. Torque and check in increments so you don't over shoot. Over shooting will further crush the crush sleeve which will then require replacement, that means tearing the whole diff down.
  14. Finished up the seam stitch welding, what a time consuming job! I approximate at least 20-30 hrs invested, maybe more. Also welded in the Bad Dog frame rails and subframe connectors but before doing so I leveled the body on jack stands just to make sure no stress was flexing the body. Noticed a big increase in body stiffness while re-leveling on the stands after stitch welding. The first initial leveling to prepare for stitch welding the body would flex to sit on jack stands and after it pivots on the higher points. Conformation that all that time and effort was not spent for nothing I welded in the Bad Dog frame rails last because was contemplating incorporating some captive nuts inside the rails for the trans mount. After giving that idea more thought the complexity of pulling that off just killed my motivation. Instead going to build the trans mount off of some extra support structure for the floor pan. The bottom of the S30 chassis is a weak point and would like to address this while cutting up the trans tunnel to fit the Cobra Suzuka seat (my 1975 has the intruding bulge into the driver's seat area). Heavy85, a member here, crashed his Z into a small boulder field during a hill climb event. He posted an in car video and after math photos. His crash hammered home the need to build some strength and crash protection below the passenger seats. Getting ahead of myself a bit as this has yet to be design... Here are some pics of progress to date. Some weld thru primer before install of frame rails Some standard primer on inside of BD frame rails. The drilled holes fit over the stock weep holes and were welded to close gap between frame rail. Had to remove the stock roll bar mount tabs for welding clearance. That's okay since the new rear bar will most likely mount behind diff. Welded the portion of plate beneath connector first. Again leveled body on jack stands before tacking connectors in place. Finished product. Off to get a beer, Cheers!
  15. Repaired the rust damage on passenger door sill. Been pouring all my time into the build so haven't had time to fabricate the DIY sheet metal brake from the pieces I gathered at the local structural iron fabricator remnant pile. So to form the patch I used some scrap angle and vice to form the 20 gauge patch piece.
  16. Oh sure, blame this madness on me, lol! Seriously, your work is incredible and completely thought out! Working as fast as possible to get to the point of installing the 2015 spindle kit. Sourced four Koni 8611 1259 Race dampeners which should arrive next week so now have everything needed.
  17. Thanks jhm, I have seen those pics and stealing plenty of ideas, lol. Of particular interest is bjhines's car/cage he built back in 2006, I like his cross bar that contours firewall just below windshield. I can just see myself wasting a bunch of tubing trying to get that bar fit properly... I would like to have the front strut towers triangulated off that bar. I don't plan on having a node at that point taking load back to rear strut towers because it will intrude on passenger space. Not the best design but compromises are going to be made. But that's a whole different conversation... Since my plan for the Z is a street legal car I plan to target autocross, HPDE and maybe Time Attack. If I decide to go deeper into competition, and have not broken too many rules with all modifications, I'd like to know my cage is legal. But first and fore most want it provide safety.
  18. Going to start chassis stiffening and would like guidance on tube and plate thickness. My main cage will be DOM 1.75"x0.095". I hope to be under 2800 lbs. but figured better safe than sorry. What is minimum plate thickness for boxes that support main bar and forward a-pillar bar? I believe 2020 SCCA rules say between 0.080" and 0.25". Tube size and thickness for anything other than cage, DOM 1.5"x0.065"? And thickness for the additional chassis support plates for stiffening tube?. Some areas I am considering are from radius arm bracket to rocker panel, wrapping front strut tower to support forward frame rail and rear ward roll cage tie ins, tops of rear shock towers. Edit: Adding info from searches. Roll cage mounting plate min. of 0.080" thick, no more than 100 sq.in. and no less the 9 sq.in.
  19. Don't think I could incorporated a Flying Miata type brace into my build but also have not given thought to side pipes. I like the idea of anything under the car hugging the floor pan. Building added structure inside the cabin is interesting too. I have a Cobra Suzuka which the manufacturer states it does not require a back brace. It's a fiberglass seat and don't know if they are compatible with rear bracing.
  20. Floor strength is something I want to enhance when installing my seat. I will need to modify trans tunnel encroaching into the seat area anyway so may as well try to strengthen the floor. The only idea I have so far is forming up some sheet metal like the original transmission mount and have it tie in the frame rails. More ideas are welcome. I was fired up to try hill climb racing until I saw Heavy85's video of his crash!
  21. Ironhead, The first thing i purchased for my Z after buying the car years ago were Bad Dog frame connectors. Fun fact, the owner of Bad Dog came across an undeveloped film roll in a garage somewhere and that is where those pics came from. Talk about hidden treasure, right? I too noticed that every seam on the BRE was fully welded contrary to current advice of stitch welding. John Coffey, famed Z car wizard, mentions that fully welding the seams relieves the forming strength/stress in the steel weakening the final product. I don't know squat about metallurgy... AydinZ71, I would love to have the ability to use Solidworks but for now I live vicariously through others like Noah Dropkin who designed my 2015 Mustang front spindle swap. Completely amazed what he does with 3D scanners and Solidworks. Maybe new frame rails with tie-ins to cage can help strengthen up your 71. Curious about location and extent of rust.
  22. Thanks for the kind words, held keep me encouraged... AndinZ71, theoretically the engine/tranny downward angle and pinion up angle should be equal. For example, if engine/trans points down 2 degrees the pinion should point up 2 degrees. Cars with less than perfect alignment run without issue and are even purposefully built unequal such as rear leaf spring cars to compensate for flex upon acceleration. Having both at zero degrees is not recommended either because then the u-joints don't spin thus placing constant load on a few needle bearings. Check out this cool video demonstrating the concept. https://shiftsst.com/blog/post/driveline-angles.html Today's task is getting the 8.8 back into car and dialing in pinion angle, shooting for around 2 degrees. Then it's off to fabbing up the engine and trans mounts.
  23. Finished the weld in camber plates. Must admit I agonized over the installation spending a long time getting the plates square to centerline of car and, for the fronts, the same distance from firewall. The fore/aft placement of the rears were determined by center of strut hole on top. I initially used the midpoint between the frame rails and mustache bar studs for car centerline. I could not get the front camber plates both square and equal distance from fire wall. Switched to using the mid point between the front and rear strut towers and things came into alignment much better. Questioning the effort I made to get the plates aligned so accurately (within 1-2 mm) given this is a mass produced 45 year old car known for a flexible chassis. Well, at least I can say it was done accurately and best to my ability. Started with rears. My 75 has the thin top sheet metal that was removed exposing the larger gauge flat top. I then placed a piece of aluminum angle iron across top to fit plates perpendicular to car centerline. Did not have to fight seam sealer contaminating welds so they welded up nice. The fronts were done in a similar fashion as rears. Darn seam sealer reared it's ugly head making the welds less visually appealing. Tuned the weld up with an abrasive disc and will bondo the remaining minor imperfections before paint.
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