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Everything posted by 280Z-LS3

  1. Maybe the DSUNO might work for you. The Ferodo graph for their pads start at 150C so it's anyone's guess how they perform at ambient temp for first few stops.
  2. When I purchased my kit Essex recommended the Ferodo DS2500 pad as good place to start while experimenting with pads for a street driven car. The DS2500 looks to be their lowest aggressive pad with an average 0.42 Mu over operating temp range. Hope to offer up an opinion on these pads in the coming months. https://www.ferodoracing.com/products/car-racing/racing-brake-pads/ds2500/
  3. I think Ironhead's inline resonator design is not the limiting ride height factor. Recall it is the header collector??? Ironhead, what was used as the resonator? My thoughts are using a small race muffler which there are many to choose from.
  4. Thanks Ironhead. Ryan said about 4-5 weeks for the wheels. Jeeze, I hope it's not three times that long! Have him in a holding pattern as of now, which is not helping time wise, while waiting on fender flares. Went with Jendoza JDM style. They shipped yesterday so should be here soon.
  5. Are you happy with exhaust note? Mentioned before my past interest in the inline "resonators" design you used but due to fitment constraints on other projects was never able to give it a try.
  6. If I can keep the current pace of progress then I would like to have wheels sooner.
  7. Welded up the puck style engine mounts. Originally planned on welding engine mounts on cross member. However, I wanted the engine as far back as reasonably possible (block/belhousing mount face 1.5" off firewall) but this would have required the engine mounts to extend some 4-5" rearward of cross member. Was not comfortable with that much cantilever. Also, the volume of space such a mount would require is right where the dry sump pump lines will run from pan to pump. So the only other solution was to have the engine mounts come off frame rail. Installed height of engine was determined by
  8. Utilizing the front spindle off the 2015 Mustang presented few options for brakes without designing one off custom caliper brackets and rotor hats that would be needed with my original thought swapping in a large OEM brake kit from Mustang or Caddy CTS. Using 17" wheels like I originally wanted would require the custom parts too. After much research the choices came down to OEM and offerings from various after market brake manufactures. Further reducing choices was rotor diameter that kits employ. Most performance after market brakes packages for the S550 Mustang use 15" rotors
  9. Just purchased a brake kit from Essex and now the next step is to talk with Tilton on what they recommend for masters cyl with their dual master pedal. How close/realistic are theoretical values like pedal effort and effort derived brake calcs? My first time going through this exercise so don't now what to expect. Thinking they can give me an idea of pedal travel amount based on caliper specs but have a feeling it's going to be trial and error to find the right compromise between pedal effort and travel.
  10. Been working a bunch so progress has slowed a bit. A few things are starting to come together and finally got the trans mount sorted out. Really wanted to tie into the frame rails for strength and after considering many options decided on building some stub frame rails perpendicular to the main frame rails. First I started with some 3x3 .125" wall square tubing by cutting out top for poly trans mount to sit inside tube and sectioned the ends for exhaust clearance. Welded that up and installed on trans. Made
  11. Intimidating power, YEAH! LOL. This IS why you have labored for over the years!!! Once upon a time got the keys to my Dad's 81 Corvette. Cold, wet roads so traction was non-existent. Had the high school sweet heart in the passenger seat and came to the stop sign at the local pizza place where all the kids came to hang out. Wanting to show off nailed the throttle while making a left out of stop sign and the car just started fish tailing. Guard rail, on coming traffic, guard rail, the OH SHIT kinda stuff. Learned a lesson but have since not experienced that sort of power excee
  12. $3500, wow! That's what I paid for a T-56 Magnum F-Body which is rated at 700 ft.lbs.
  13. Don't kow what "built" entails but I looked into upgrading a WC T-5 with GForce stuff for another Ford project of mine. After spending $2k you still have a trans rated to 400-500 ft.lbs. I choose to run a V6 T-5 and bellhousing from late 90s to early 2000s Mustang which is the same trans that came in 90's Cobra rated just over 300 ft.lbs. It has same Windsor bellhousing bolt pattern for my 5.0 block so it bolts up fine. When I blow it up will buy another from wrecking yard, they are cheap and plentiful. Long story short, I think you will spend good money to upgrade and make fit
  14. Congrats! Do you have a dB meter, does not seem loud on video. I think there is a sound meter app for smart phones that is reasonably accurate.
  15. Re-paint, ugh! Such a chore when you don't have dedicated body shop facilities. Really hard to anticipate how things will go together and build accordingly When I get to dialing in alignment and suspension setting going to learn how to do alignment also. Having to take the car to alignment shop for every little change would be too time consuming and I'm sure price of home shop alignment equipment could be paid for with just a few trips to alignment shop. Is the lowest part of exhaust right underneath the rear control arms? I have a feeling that is going to be the lo
  16. Do you have a dip stick oil level in your tank? I am curious what is the difference in oil level/volume between running and after sitting for a few days. I have heard that dry sumps do bleed oil into pan after sitting for some time. It's just a matter of physics, the oil seeking level throughout the system I suppose. As long as there is a good amount of oil left in the tank for oil pressure at startup you should have no problems because, as you said, the scavenge will empty the pan pretty quick.
  17. 5cm would be too small I think. MiKelly used RetroSpec flares. He said they were 3.5" wide rear with 315 in his build thread so thinking I need at least that much clearance. The RS web page says their flares are 3.25" front and 3.75" rear so some conflicting info there too. The "InZanity" 240Z build used 315 on 11x18 rear as well but can't find what brand he used or where sourced. Getting good fitting flares in this size maybe a challenge. The search continues...
  18. Right, I saw that too. Just can't find any info the actual size of the "deluxe" type. And more confusion is that Jesse got back to me saying after contacting MG they offer 1" ZG flares. I detailed in email to Jesse wanting a large size for the 275 and 315 tire and that was the response. Lost in translation?
  19. Searching for good fitting ZG flares to fit 275 front and 315 rear tires. Currently looking into purchasing the wheels after mocking up the suspension up to appropriately size offset of 9.5" front and 11" rear wheels. Searching here and around the web reveals plenty of builds with these size tires but flare sizing and brand is not clearly mentioned. Retro Spec has a wide ZG set at 3.25" and 3.75" front and rear. However, many members caution dealing with Retro Spec as of lately. Margugen Shoukai are quality and the thickest "Special" model are recommended.
  20. What are the three sets of plates for, the ones located in the 3 o'clock position in the photo?
  21. Finished up the passenger side upper frame horn and T/C bucket support tubes.
  22. Sure, it's josephsulse@instagram.com I don't post much but really going to make an effort to be more involved. Heck, going to post something right now!
  23. That is very encouraging although a change from what I was told by AiM USA rep. a few months ago. Holley may have changed stance on release of Terminator Canbus... Will check again on my end
  24. Holley Terminator ECUs come with "startup" tunes but doubt they offer complete tunes. Further tuning after startup can be done via lap top while driving. However, the best possible tune would be achieved on a dyno I believe. The tuning software is free to download if interested in viewing functionality. I watched a few "How To" videos of the Holley tuning software and was sold on it's abilities. RacePak (owned by Holley?) has PDMs but have heard they are not as feature rich and don't carry as many amps as other brands including the new Aim.
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