280Z-LS3

Those are the first flares i purchased. They should work for 275s all four corners by my measurements. The rears are too small at 3" for 315s. Build quality is fine but not as good as the Marugen Shoukia which were purchased from https://www.rhdjapan.com/marugen-shoukai.html Marugen Shoukia flares fit better than JDM but cost twice as much due to shipping cost from Japan. No pics yet. Still a few months out at least because have not even ordered wheels yet.

I would look for other tune solutions too if the SoCal guy's tune day would cost $5K. Full disclosure I have never tuned or had a EFI motor tuned but interest in doing so led me to research the process over the years. Your previous experience with other race car puts you miles ahead of me. Does your engine ECU allow for data logging or real time monitoring of timing, air/fuel and other engine parameters? Not saying the GM tune is inadequate but just double check that things are working per spec. LS1Tech.com is a great resource with plenty of brilliant people willing

Another thing to consider, if not already done, is a dyno tune. Sub-optimal ignition timing curve can make engines run hot. Finding a good LSX engine tuner can be a challenge but in NorCal you should not have to go far.

No wheels yet. Ordered and took delivery of some Marugen Shoudkia front and rear flares. In the process of redesigning the rear strut tube to allow for more inward wheel fitment so I can use the Marugen flares. Hoping modifications will allow for fitting 315 tires on 18x11.5" wheel with these flares, it's going to be tight! The section tire width of 315s are around 12.8" and actual rim width is 12.5". The Marugen extra wide rear flares I have measure 3.5" total width not added width from existing stock flare. My build is unique and the pinch points are the strut tubes. Most likely the

I know! House remodel has garage play time sidelined. That said have little time right now so started installing the Griffin 1.25" dual core radiator and C7 Spal fan. Will post up some progress photos soon. The basic Super 8.8 swap kit is Invincible Extremes. You can find him in the vendors section. D1t is the guy who designed my front end and new rear knuckles. He responded to this thread a few posts back, private message him.

Please report back with results after you seal up all the alternate air flow paths in the radiator core support. Your cooling equipment choices are almost identical to what I have sitting in the garage waiting to be installed. Way back when building a 1969 Camaro (should have kept that car...) called up Ron Davis for the radiator. Went with an with a unit with an integrated oil/water cooler. Worked well. One thing he did stress is sealing the radiator core support holes, radiator to core support gap and also the fan shroud to radiator (for low speed cooling) so only path for ai

What radiator design are you using, single or dual pass, tube size, overall core thickness? Does the fan shroud allow for air flow when fan is not active? The location of the oil cooler is very common, there must be an easier solution than relocating. And as others have said, ducting more air toward the radiator seems like a good idea. Maybe some light aluminum or stainless sheet metal could be formed into a polyhedron (big word, had to Google that one) to funnel air to front of radiator. The C7 fan I plan to use has 7 flaps which are pushed open when air pressu

House remodel has me stalled in the garage, ignoring work on the Z. With the arrival of the new rear knuckles/up rights today getting super motivated to get back at it. Noah's work is top notch as usual! Really have to see these in person to appreciate the design. Going to get them on the car ASAP for some measurements. The rear strut tube mount flanges will have to be redesigned to move the strut deeper into the strut well for 315 tire fitment using Marugen Shoukai extra wide flares. More on that soon...

Did you ever figure out the soft pedal issue? A friend mentioned bleeding dual masters is a real challenge while discussing my brake setup. What method did you use?

Good to here. These car builds take an enormous amount of time and life does/will demand time spent else where. I had some good momentum but stalled as of late with a house remodel. As soon as I get back into the house will answer the 280Z longing to be finished.

Does the 4.5" resonator have a built-in x-pipe or just an open chamber type? Honestly, I don't know if it makes any difference with your design. Beautiful work!

Have a look at my build. I choose the LS platform because it's well supported by the aftermarket industry for power upgrades to get into the N/A 500-650hp range but still powerful in factory spec, light with alum block and heads, compact, great trans options, etc. $50K seems like plenty till you start buying new parts so be mindful that "car parts" add up quickly. Sanchez and I discussed the VQ platform for turbo to make the power levels you mentioned. There is a guy in Florida who makes turbo kits for the VQ which are between $10-15K. At time of researching could not

Honeycomb aluminum plate is your salvation! I have no idea where to get it (unobtainium?) and sure it's ungodly expensive. Read an article about a hill climb/time attack car that used it. Their real job was in aerospace and had a piece "sitting around". So stiff that a 200 lbs guy could stand on the splitter. Back to reality... I like the idea of home made sheet of fiberglass. Too increase stiffness one could mold in some 1/4 or slightly larger plastic tubing. Watched a Aussie old racer guy on YouTube who makes race car body panels (I spend way too much time on the internet

Yes, absolutely right. Summer is the down season for Cali, I stand corrected! Here in SLO county it gets into the triple digits for weeks on end during summer. Without A/C it's brutal. I had the opportunity to drive a friend's right hand drive 1966 Ford GT40 in July a few years ago. Such a rare iconic Super Car couldn't pass the offer up. After 20 mins with outside temp of 105F had to call it quits hoping for an ice bath while pulling into the garage. As I pulled in literally soaked with sweat he asked me to take his nephew who couldn't drive a stick for a spin. Kids these

While talking with Noah the other day I mentioned something about bolt sizing and strength in shear. I think it was for the 10mm bolts I used for my trans mount. He said there is a common misconception on how things are "held together" with fasteners. It's the friction created between the surfaces the fasteners are connecting which provides the vast majority of the apposing force in the shear plane. So I think the carefully shimmed play between the rod end and upright and having the through bolt torqued to spec for diameter will solve the chatter you are experiencing. "Finishe

Look on my build thread for some good pics and discussion of trans in tunnel.

Purchased a set of Jendoza flares and initial fitment looks good, hugs the body contour nicely. The over all width is 2" front and 3" rear when measuring the flare its self. Installed on car the added width over stock fender flare is approximately 1" front and 1.5" rear. Don't know if I would like using a larger flare, this size seems about right. What I have found, both front and rear, the limiting factor of positive offset of wheels is the coil over threaded spring seat interference. The front has 11.75" and rear has 11" from spring seat to Jendoza flare lip. Curious that

Honestly, I had no input on new knuckle design as my mechanical engineering knowledge is like zero, lol. I had the 3T arms already so we decided to go with OEM pickup points for compatibility.

Thanks Richard! Been busy with life which equates to not much time in garage. Talked Noah Dropkin into redesigning the 8.8 rear knuckle for the 8.8 swap for me. Noah's design accomplishes two things, sheds something like 5-7 lbs off current knuckle (substantial reduction in sprung weight) and eliminates the caliper mount bracket. The steel for the knuckles are currently being cut and will be welded up by a friend in his shop. Here are a few pics of Noah's Solid Works mock up generated with a 3D digital scan of the Essex AP rotor/hat and calipers. I don't plan on us

I found post #13 in this thread informative. https://f87.bimmerpost.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1270915

Maybe the DSUNO might work for you. The Ferodo graph for their pads start at 150C so it's anyone's guess how they perform at ambient temp for first few stops.

When I purchased my kit Essex recommended the Ferodo DS2500 pad as good place to start while experimenting with pads for a street driven car. The DS2500 looks to be their lowest aggressive pad with an average 0.42 Mu over operating temp range. Hope to offer up an opinion on these pads in the coming months. https://www.ferodoracing.com/products/car-racing/racing-brake-pads/ds2500/

I think Ironhead's inline resonator design is not the limiting ride height factor. Recall it is the header collector??? Ironhead, what was used as the resonator? My thoughts are using a small race muffler which there are many to choose from.

Thanks Ironhead. Ryan said about 4-5 weeks for the wheels. Jeeze, I hope it's not three times that long! Have him in a holding pattern as of now, which is not helping time wise, while waiting on fender flares. Went with Jendoza JDM style. They shipped yesterday so should be here soon.

Are you happy with exhaust note? Mentioned before my past interest in the inline "resonators" design you used but due to fitment constraints on other projects was never able to give it a try.