Greeko
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Posts posted by Greeko
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On 1/2/2018 at 4:30 AM, softopz said:
Yes you have your TPS wires crossed looking at a 2jz TPS in a FSM will tell you which one is 5vref, ground and output. And you still have to calibrate your TPS signal in tunerstudio.
Secondly Having power to coils and injectors means half the battle you are most likely not getting a tach signal (to fire them via MS ground ) or you are getting fuel and spark just not getting it at the right event. Everything revolves around the tach signal . Which leads me to my next question are you getting a tach signal during cranking in tuner studio RPM gauge? Sorry I pmed you concerning l28et distributor wiring you never mentioned to me in PM what your setup was . Before I make you a harness your problem could be easily done with a bit of research and help here on the forums. If you want me to make a harness thats fine by me to!
You sound young we were all at that age and we just wanna get shit done and enjoy the project that feels like its been an eternity already . But seriously slow down, do it right the first time, dont cut corners and research research will go along ways!
NOW go download the FSM for your engine, and even the dizzy specifically which engine it came from. TELL us how you wired your distributor.Also simple but overlooked thing always happens your 12v source for CAS input and MS input should have power when cranking!
Well said, how many times have we re done something because we rushed through it LOL...
I am at that " I want to drive my car" stage again..this time with body work..blah LOL
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3 hours ago, tim.d said:
Thanks for the input.. I've been wondering if the thick frame rails would be enough, but after hearing your experience I'm glad I'm planning on additional triangulation.
This car, right? Definitely taking inspiration from him on some fronts, but this is a street car..gotta keep myself from going totally overboard with it. Finding some compromise on interior space has been something I've been mulling over for a while - Mostly around the firewall and how to reasonably but effectively connect to the rear of the car without a full cage. Suggestions welcome
Here's my photodump of other people's chassis stiffening: https://imgur.com/a/R27sh
Very nice compilation! I will be using some of these to calm my chassis lol
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Very nice work. Stoked to see the progress...So much metal work wow...
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16 hours ago, JTCN said:
So I chased vacuum lines some more today and all the lines are fine.
I found all the lines from the manifold and dash pot to the solenoids, to the vacuum bottle, through the firewall, and under the heater controls.
Not a crack or split on any of them. All still soft and flexible.
I've done more research and it seems that on '75 cars the heater control valve is solely cable operated. No vacuum except for the flaps that control airflow.
Since the defroster/floor vents in my car never blow air on any setting, I'm guessing it's the vacuum controlled doors. But if all my vacuum lines are fine then what's the issue?
What do the HVAC solenoids actually do? How can I test them?
It's obviously a vacuum issue. The question is what's failing in the system to cause my problem.
I rebuilt my hvac system and are in the process of putting it back together ... Make sure you are getting vaccum by pulling off the "S" hose off the selector and feel it with your finger...
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I kept my twins... No issues with clearance..I think some guys used 2j housings to help with clearance
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3 hours ago, seattlejester said:
I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames.
Living in the PNW..I feel your pain with wet traction..but for Dry traction I ran R888...holy hesus was she amazing in the dry!
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3 hours ago, seattlejester said:
I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames.
Oh, and I am using 1jZ bored out twins from driftmotion running 14 psi with 436 WHP.... fyi
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3 hours ago, seattlejester said:
I think both of you are insane lol. I've got massive traction problems and problems hitting too much boost with my S257, can't imagine with your S300 frames.
Wider tires and an LSD REALLY REALLY REALLY Help.
255/40R17 Firestone Oval firehawks (summer)
Mfactory LSD
Makes a big big difference!
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On 12/8/2017 at 2:02 PM, 240zdex said:
That's great to know.
would you buy the engine and trans mount togeather or have the trans mount fabbed up because I don't intend to keep it for more then 2 years?
Its a great starting point. I would just buy that mount.
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The cx racing kit for the R154 will require a bit of modification for the W58. It was pretty easy to do.
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I removed it, Removing was Easy....
Dollying it out and getting the welds perfect..LOTS of work!!!Ended up skimming the roof like 3 times to get it perfect! Super happy with the result but damn I wish I bought one without a sunroof LOL...
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17 hours ago, mforget said:
Hey thanks for the reply!
I already have the stagg shocks and vogtland springs in stock....
I would try it without camber plates if i am sure that everything will clear....
Should have go with the BC coilovers.....I would not have this dilemma right now....
Thanks for your help!
Im in Quebec province.
Good luck with the build. You have all winter!
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no man, the camber is super close if you just do the standard drop of 1-1.5"
If you haven't purchased the shocks and springs go with BC coilovers. They have an integrated pillowball mount, camber plate!
Where in Canada you at?
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10 hours ago, primaz said:
I do not have a 280 but several 240's and I am in the process of completing my wife's 240z. I rolled the fenders to ensure no issues with tire rub which is a good thing to do especially running 245's. Her car has CCW's 16x8's with 245 on all four corners with no flares needed. I went with the standard BC coil overs but upgraded the springs to their Swift spring option as I have read many feel those springs are a better ride. I just finished our Mini Cooper 2003 S with BC coil overs with Swift springs and the handling is very good. For the Mini we had to soften the settings almost to the softest setting for street driving but it works well. I personally think with a 17" rim that the standard BC's would give it a good stance but again I have no experience with a 280? My other 240Z is an older build on the suspension, with Ground Control coil overs, 16x8 rims with 245's, rolled fenders, no flares, and that Z is about 4 to 4.5" off the ground so it is fairly low; it is a street car and that is about as long as you want to go as I have to angle every driveway or speed bump to clear. The BC's are great as you can adjust the camber, etc. easily and you do not need to weld in camber plates and are well made.
Thanks for the feedback. I hear good things about the swift springs option...
Do you have any pics of the 240z with all the gear installed?
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17 hours ago, seattlejester said:
If you are unhappy with the progressive springs, maybe consider just swapping to a linear one? The KYB shocks are actually pretty comfortable and even with spirited driving it does a pretty good job of damping higher frequencies. I really enjoyed my tokico linear springs with the kyb shocks.
I think what you are describing is what they consider the extreme kit pretty much. Granted for at least the 240z the extreme has travel that will beach the car on standard sized tires.
I think the consensus is not to go much higher than 5k as you are doing. With chassis flex coming into play if you play around with much higher rates. I don't know if it is the shock or the spring (I'm guessing the shock), the car uses a LOT of its travel even when maxed out on adjustment. On a big dip or hard acceleration I could hear the car scrub the tire and I swear I could feel it lock the wheel from rotating. I ended up raising the car above the height I had with the linear springs and kyb shocks. I now have 2 fingers in the back whereas I used to have 1 with my old combo. Car doesn't catch anymore, but the dampers don't feel that great.
I would have gone with Tokicos if i could find them...They are discontinued....
I would go with the recommended 4k up front and possibly 4.5-5k in the rear..
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You can't lose with either option but theres something about keeping an inline 6 ...and BOOOOOOOOST!
I went with Microtech with my JZ swap and had a SUPER easy time installing... I also used CX racing mounts. They did a decent enough job!
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Hey guys,
I am very unhappy with the way the eibach progressive springs and kyb shocks ride. I feel the car is bobbing around and having a hard time loading the suspension into slightly more aggressive corners.I am in the process of ordering some BC Coilovers for my 280 (1JZ, poly bushings , 245/40R17, 17x9 and ZG flares(presently its on blocks and being assembled).
The car will be primarily a daily driver in the spring, summer, fall with the odd autocross day. I don't want to slam it, making it difficult to navigate city streets or sore after driving for an hour lol. I would like it to look decent with good handling.After reading through some of the comments It seems like the standard coil overs do not drop the car very much (0-2"). The s30 especially the 280z is SUPER high and needs to be brought down a bit....
After speaking with BC they told me I can define the exact drop I would like so I am thinking of getting a custom kit with a 1.5-4.5" drop. (4k(225 lb/inch) in the front and 5k (280 lb/inch) for the rear. (Stock is 115.4 Front, 127.7 Rear))
They also said they will be changing the shock body size and stroke based on my request. For a standard lowering kit they run 230mm body with 110mm of travel in front and 290mm body with 140mm travel in rear. They will probably take 20mm off each body and stroke length if I get a lower kit. Pretty neat eh...
Any feedback or recommendations would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance. -
On 11/16/2017 at 10:45 AM, Exposed said:
Started removing my twins this past weekend, word of advice for anyone looking at removing them.
Take both stock turbos off at the same time. I found the best way to do it was by removing the nuts circled in blue, once you have those nuts off remove the stock turbos and you can remove the nuts circled in red. (4th blue circle nearest to the rad should be red not blue)
Underneath the car nearest to the front of car
Underneath the car nearest to firewall
just to double check, the hose circled in the picture below can be blocked off. and where do people normally run the hose from the water pump (second picture)?
I did the same thing u did. In the process of getting it welded shut!
Good job on headliner. I am scared of doing it myself...lol Is it pretty easy?
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On 5/2/2016 at 12:56 PM, kerrys914 said:
Just to close this issue out..
I ended up adding 1" alum. spacers between the T3 camber plate and Z body.
I would recommend only cutting the rear struct .75" rather then 1.5" (which is typical) if you plan on using T3 (possibly other's) camber plates.
I also added spring perch/collar needle bearings to aid in the adjustment of the the collar.
Cheers
I know this is an older conversation but I am about to do this.
If you do not use any camber plates would you still cut the rear struts 1.5"?
Were you happy with the 1.5" off to front? Do you get good road clearance after changing tires? -
I called them up and they quoted me $2600 for a set...not too bad I guess..
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On 11/15/2017 at 4:33 PM, Zetsaz said:
Very nice color. 115 Blue? Or the popular Daytona blue?
Porsche Aqua blue Mettalic M5R
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Very nice metal work man...
I ended up just replacing my hatch, sil with new/used components in better shape. Saved me a lot of time and agony..just my 2 cents.. Im here now... -
I restored my dash..I was about the same condition yours was. Cost me $100 in materials and I am very very happy with the results.
I couldnt find a picture of the completed dash but here is the main foam and filler done.. SEM Texture coat and SEM trim black and it looks like new!!!
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I was in the same shoes as you man.... I ended spending almost a year of it on blocks...might as well..might as well..etc etc etc...nearly 6K in body work ( a lot done by myself) and now paint.... Its a slippery slope for sure. I am glad I did it but didn't realize how much it would actually cost to do it right...
Converting from EFI to Triple Weber setup
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
Posted
Looks
Looks Rad man...Oh your a local Vancouver guy. Good to see some local s30s.