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Greeko

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Posts posted by Greeko

    L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    32 minutes ago, RefreshRate said:

    Believe me I have considered swapping it... But alot of work went into modifying the power steering, A/C and all that stuff to work on this L28 and I would hate to rip all that off and it just fits in the car so well.  This motor has been meticulously cared for and maintained by the PO and its just too good for me to pull out. After this motor reaches its limits I'll go the swap route (rb25det probably). That and I feel like someones gotta keep modifying these engines! lol Gotta keep the L28 alive and well.  Also want to keep the car as light as possible, and I really like the way a clean L28 looks in the engine bay with a nice megasquirt system installed like some of the pictures on this thread. Someday I'll swap it, but not until I get tired of this one! haha Your build looks amazing btw, do you have any videos?

    The JZ is actually 45 lbs lighter than the stock L28..


    I get it though...People will always work on whatever engine you want..just gonna cost you. Parts may be a touch more difficult to source etc etc.

    Sadly I do not have my old videos.. What I can tell you is it started first try... Amazed at how easy it was.

     

    I will be posting more up...just finishing paint right now.. Just laid down first coat today!23379808_10154877544127854_157841600_o.thumb.jpg.1d6bca6ed848275a7a2c17b32a0ddb1c.jpg

    L28 Build Thread 75 280z (N/A to Turbo Conversion)*UPDATED

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted · Edited by Greeko

    I'm going to chime in here......

    I was down the same road as you...and decided that its WAYYYYYYY too much work for me to reach 300-400 whp with the L28... So i dropped a 1JZ/W58 with a microtech lt12c. Took me 3 weeks, 6K and i was DONE and RUNNING...easy swap and part availability is super easy(same parts as 2JZ for the most part)

     

    I'm sitting at 383 WHP with 14 lbs of boost bone stock internals and turbos....

     

    Engine Bay.jpg

    Megasquirt Relay Board with Bosch 044 fuse blowing

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Another thing I thought of is check your Battery Voltage. Make sure its not low, Lower voltage will cause a higher current to produce the same power.

    In addition fire up the pump and measure the voltage on the Fuel pump...If its low..check your battery, charging circuitry and possibly the connection you made with 14 to 10 awg.

    Do not use crimp connectors for connections like this. Solder connections.

    Megasquirt Relay Board with Bosch 044 fuse blowing

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    18 hours ago, dpuma8 said:

    Hi everyone,

    I have a Carter P4070 feed pump that feeds into a surge tank that has a submerged Bosch 044 fuel pump.  I have had a problem where after shutting off the car for 30 minutes, the fuel pressure will drop to around 10 psi.  I have read on the internet that the Bosch needs a 10 gauge wire but the Megasquirt relay board doesn't have an opening large enough to connect the 10 gauge wire to it.  So after realizing this, I have the 14 gauge wire connected to the relay board and after a few inches, it connects to the 10 gauge Bosch wire.

    So after doing this, the problem I am having is either the fuel pump fuse or the main fuse will pop immediately.  I changed the fuel pump and the main fuse to 30 amps for both but after a few minutes, those fuses will pop again.

    1) Fuses didn't pop when I had 14 gauge wire connecting to the Bosch pump but now it does.  I changed the ground wire from 14 gauge to 12 gauge and is now connected to the same frame grounding bolt as the Carter pump.  Is grounding both pumps to the same frame bolt a bad idea?

    2) The recommended main fuse for the Relay Board is 20 amps but do I need a larger main fuse?  Or do I have other issues?

     

     

    Ok, the Bosch 044 pump draws around 18A at full Load..so essentially a 20A fuse is cutting it a bit close. You need to size the fuse to protect the wire and the device. IF you use 10AWG the wire is rated for 40A, 14 AWG is rated for 25A. If you are popping this fuse there may be an underlying connection issue or a faulty pump.

    I would remove battery power and check the following:
    Resistance between the relay board contact and the fuel pump... This resistance should be very low (less than 1-2 ohms). If not, check wiring, connections

    If that is good check the resistance between the pump negative terminal and ground..If this is low then your ok, if not, check wiring, connections

    Check the resistance between the Relay board ground/neutral and the Pump ground/neutral. If this is not low, resecure the relay board to ground

    Remove the Positive and negative from the fuel pump and Relay board. Check resistance between the two wires. If this value is low you may have wiring grounding out or burnt through insulation...

     

    If you have any more wiring questions don't hesitate to ask.

    1.2JZ into a 280Z build.

    in Toyota L6 Forum

    Posted

    On 10/10/2017 at 7:48 PM, Geno750 said:

    So during a friendly basketball game some genius decided to get nut to butt against me as I jumped up for a rebound. Landed partially on his foot causing mine to roll and break my ankle. Good times. I've managed to finish getting the vvti line done, and started working on spark plug wires. Doing all of this with my knee resting on a chair makes this a slow process though.

    Very nice engine build man! Looking forward to progress pics...

    Blasting vs. sanding (rust repair)

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted · Edited by Greeko

    22833295_10154843446082854_2008814802_o.thumb.jpg.c4a9eee74af65af8f241f5a12f6c0ca3.jpg

    From my brief tenure as hobby car restorer I have learned a couple things....

    Home DIY Blasting, dipping, rust removal BLOW FAT CHUNKS!!! Messy, dirty, painful and a WASTE of your time...

    I enjoying doing it myself.. (pause for horrible joke to set in) but certain things I will send off and happily pay a little more or most likely the SAME up front and have a professional do the blasting/rust removal... Once that is done heck yes I will have fun welding new patches in, skimming etc....

    And on that note...I have also learned to SPEND MORE MONEY and get a better vehicle to start on (unless there is a sentimental attachment to the original vehicle).. People have this idea that if they buy the cheapest Vehicle out there it will cost them the least amount of money...IT WONT!!!.Ask me how I know...lol..

    Just my rant after finding more awesome rust in a spot I had already gone over ...sigh..Never ends lol

     

    22810196_10154843375737854_132971074_o.jpg

    22850211_10154843398222854_274882422_o.jpg

     

    Blasting vs. sanding (rust repair)

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    17 hours ago, jkelly said:

    How did you get into the hard to access areas? Like the passenger/driver air ducts that run up the engine bay sides, and the inner fenders above the dog legs, and other areas? Were those areas just not rusted?

     

    It is a mindset thing. I'm to the point where I'm pretty OCD about things. Even if I can clean out most of the rust in those pictures, there's still going to be rust in the seams and lap joints that I'll wonder what the state of it is. I dunno, maybe if I put enough work into the engine and make enough horsepower I'll forget about the lap joint rust :D

     

    Also, you can't even acid dip/chemical dip a car in California any more without paying for it with your left testicle. Jeez. I was quote $2600 for just the shell today. I did get a $1500 quote for the whole car in Phoenix AZ.  Pretty good price and only 10 hours away rather than 12 hours to Eugene Oregon!

    I didn't have rust in most of those areas. I did however spray some rust converter in gaps and crevices to make sure.. 

    2jz Megasquirt help

    in Toyota L6 Forum

    Posted

    5 hours ago, softopz said:

    SO what do you have now a microsquirt, ms2 or ms3x I got lost with all the difference shops? I havent done any 2jz harness but its pretty much the same as well any ms3x but I could do it for you I did an ms3 pro which is a bit more on a lseries full sequential.  I will actually do a 2jz swap in one of my zeds over the winter so will add some more products to the line I am also working on another new EMS that I will be a dealer for in the next month.  You also did not mention which 2jzNA is it from they do come in full sequential I believe and distributor based Correct me if Iam wrong>?!

    There are many options for you at this point keep in mind the toyota injectors are toyota specific as well other inputs and outputs in the engine. It really depends on what parts you have also ignition options are available many of them actually (stock wasted NA jz dizzy, sequential wasted full sequential ) then there's coils JZ, LS ,LS struck, yaris  ahh yes the joys of megasquirt. My best advice to you is set down goals,  see what parts/ecu you have and what your trying to do match the two and make a gameplan to attack. Secondly you want to do this right the first time I hate hacking an old harness and trying to repin/depin and remove unnecessary wires etc. Seatle gave some great advice get some wire or even better the 8ft flying lead harness for whichever ECU you have and make a new harness lay it out wire it. Also good idea to run new fuses / relays all that.

     

    Good luck

    Well Said,

     

    This is why I will be happy to spend my money on this guy!

     

    Sadly I already made my own and went with Microtech..

    In Progress RB26 1972 240z

    in Price Check

    Posted

    Wow, lots of really nice parts!

    I can just imagine how much it cost you to get it to that point...It's not cheap!

     

    Sadly I agree with JSM, you will get hit hard for the vehicle being in parts..

     

    Parting it out would be a crying shame...

    What were you hoping to get for it?

    Boost control

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Very thoughtful guide!

     

    I went the easy way out and took my car to ForceFed Performance in Abbotsford BC. They did my dyno tuning and overboost protection programming.  They are the JZ/Rotary specialist for the NW in my opinion... I was very pleased with the numbers they produced with original Coil packs, injectors and turbo...

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