240z8

After all of this time of doing nothing, we finally did something. We got the driver side front cleaned up and put a coat of primer on in. We got the battery box cut out, its not very pretty there......... Earlier today after I got out of school, I took the wire brush tool, and I got the dirt and gritty stuff off of most of the passenger side: And last Friday, we did a little bit of work on the rear driver side quarter panel: Kinser (NOTSUREWHATTOPUT) made my rust "disappear" with black spray paint that I was using to paint the other Z for some reason... Well, that is all we've done so far, there is definitely more to come so stay tuned!!

Thanks for the info, but that doesn't answer any of my questions... I need to know how many PSI it would take to tear paint and bondo off, the minimum. Also, does the buildup of friction from the water hitting the sheet metal cause any warpage?

I was looking at Toni L's 260z 2+2 project (http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=140168) and noticed that he used a power washer to strip the paint off of his 260z. Do power/pressure washers cause any warping to the sheet metal? How many PSI would it take to get bondo and paint off of the entire car? At True Value, I can rent a power washer that puts out 15,000 PSI, is that enough or would I need to find a different power washer? Any help would be appreciated Thanks, Justin

Ok, heres a small update. 4 screws at the top of the fenders on both sides are stripped, so the fenders can't come off now, it sucks. Here is the stripper we are using for now, it was 25-30 bucks at Tru Value: Since i couldn't get the fenders, off, i resumed chipping off bondo: There are alot of holes that are the same size, some had rivets in them, but i broke them off. Others were stuffed with bondo that oozed through the holes and was just hanging inide: An outside shot of the same spot: My guess is that the z was hit and it was popped out and it left some holes and one of the previous owners just put a half inch of bondo over the entire quarter panel. That is all i did today, besides video games... =]

Ok, i didn't do anything for nearly a week on the car, but i finally got something done!!! Paint stripper does wonders! =] Here are some pic of what i got done. Lower part of fender: Headlight bucket: Front of fender: Middle of fender: Top of fender: I also did a little bit of work on the driver side rear quarter panel: I stuck the paint scraper in the crack on the fender and this is what i found: Then at 10 i did a little bit more: And i got the front bumper off: We even got the wiring harness out for the most part alond with 2 parts of the brake lines. Once i get some more things done, i'll post it. =]

You get the email from my Dad about NMZCC? Here is the link to the company for the motor. Just 100 miles from our house in Lubbock, Tx. http://www.sdparts.com/product/10067353KIT/350GMGoodwrenchEngineKitStage1.aspx Tranny will be 700r4

We will be replaceing ALL wiring in the car. We will be using http://www.ezwiring.com/wiring_harness.html for the harness. $185 for a 21 circuit system. My question is? Connectors! 99% in the car are either missing or so dry rotted they are junk. Is there a place to buy new connectors? A note to the admins: I did not see any Wiring specific sub-forum. This is a major area, maybe we could get one started.

The rust is the 1st thing to deal with. After that we will be doing the body mods. maybe the full g-nose. Then we will be doing the v-8 swap.

Shipping is not that bad. I am in New Mexico, total shipped to my door was around $360. Thats for driver and passenger floors and frame rails.

I don't suppose someone downloaded this vid. The site is now dead and gone! Video no longer available.

Also, i have a question. has anyone ever bought any of the body parts from the site zccjdm.com? They have some cool looking kits for the fenders. I like the kit that is here http://www.zccjdm.com/catalog.php/azcarbum/dt73726/pd1865902/FULL__IMSA__G_NOSE__BODY_KIT__

I think you guys deserve a little update. I sanded the front fender a little bit. Also, here are the seats from the 240z Passenger Seat: Driver seat: i have to pull up the top of the seat to take a picture of the bottom because on both of the seats, they dont lock in place like they are supposed to.

Ok, i took some more pics right before it got dark, and then my camera started to hate me and wouldn't take pictures, so here is what i have for now. The front fender before sanding: The front fender after a little bit of sanding on the cracks: Everywhere there is cracking there is bondo, we guess it is to make it look smoother, but i still have a lot of sanding to do. Here is a picture that the guy that gave the car to us sent us: A rear shot: And here is a rear shot of both of the z's. A side shot at my house: I climbed on my roof to get a shot of the engine compartment. A shot of the roof: This can kind of relate to this car if i decide to switch the hood from the other car over. Here is a pic of the hood i sanded (mostly) a couple of weeks ago. There was some rust, but it was just surface rust. There are some tiny little holes at the very front that rusted through, but they are about an eighth of an inch in diameter. And finally, here is the picture of my VIN from inside the engine compartment: This vin matches the other 2 and the title. The one on a plate in the engine compartment isn't there. Once i do a little bit more work i will put some more pics up.

OK, my first Z was a failure due to VINs not matching, so we(my dad and I) looked around for another Z. He was searching the internet, and he found an ad on zcars.com for a free 1973 240z. http://www.zcar.com/forums/read/8/2006939 We went another thousand miles round-trip to pick it up. In the end, it took around $150 in gas and half of a weekend. Tell me what you think of it: Here is the battery box =[ Here is the Driver Floor: The Passenger Floor: Here is the hood, it is pretty rusty, and the only big dent is at the front of the hump in the hood. It could be popped up, but i think switching the hood from the other Z would be easier. The car had 2 original 240z spare tires on when we got there because the 2 passenger side tires were flat. One tire came originally with z and the other came from another Z. The car also came with seats, the leather is pretty thrashed, they don't lock in position. There are already holes and screws for louvers on the hatch so there is no need to drill some. Also, for some more pictures go to my flickr page: http://www.flickr.com/photos/32034229@N02/ Since it is 10:40 i can't really take any more pictures, so that can wait until tomorrow. =] Also, here is a link to my first thread about my other Z: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=143300 Tell me what you think! Thanks, Justin

I am just wondering, how do I remove the window from the hatch. I am sanding the hatch and hood so I can get them looking better and I'm confused on how to take out that window. There is some surface rust right underneath the window following the trim. Then near where the emblems are supposed to be the paint looks like it is bubbling, so i need to sand the whole thing so i can stop the cancer from eating through the hatch. Here is a pic: Also, how do i remove the lock/button so i dont sand over it? Thanks a bunch! -Justin

Updates. As for the confrontation, not yet. We are waiting for the full police report to come back. This week sometime hopefully. My Dad said he will contact the guy in Denver soon. Tell him to return our $200. And he can come get the car. I doubt he would come get it. All the better, my money back and a car to part out. As for the money, it is only $200. Not worth it to get to far into getting it back but I can still part out a few things and get most if not all of the money back. Then just cut up the car into pieces and sell as scrap to a wrecking yard. An email requesting it back and maybe a phone call or 2. If that does not work my dad will be contacting the Denver PD and informing them about the full car scam. He will provide them with Name, phone and address of this fool. Also let then know that this person is driving an 80's era camero that is not titled or insured. I just wonder, IS THERE A CAR with my VIN driving around Denver now??? More to come. I do have 4 other z's locally to look at. 1 280z that has sat for 12 years on a trailer. Rust minimal, interior trashed, open to weather. Roof looks like someone stood on it. Maybe fixable. Title ????, around $200. 1 a 1976 280z 2+2, very rough has motor and standard tranny, $125, no title, parts car. 1 is a 280z purchased 5 months ago by a person. sat outside their shop since, 3 flats, needs interior. rust minimal. Title yes, maybe $500-$700. 1 260z, in wrecking yard, was towed there 3 years ago, driver that towed died right after the tow and the owner of car is unknown. Body good, minimal rust. Needs interior. Need to do a title search and a registration search. Possible price free - $500. Title if I can find owner ????. Unknown if wrecking yard would charge for it sitting in the back lot for the last 3 years. I feel like I am in a soap opera with my first car. I guess most soap operas have good endings! LOL

tried to find z connection on ebay, no go! tried no space, a -, nothing. ideas, link to seller

Ok, the car is not stolen!! How do I get a new title in MY name? How do I get new vin badges for the dash and door jam that match the vin on the firewall? What if there is a car out there driving around that has MY real Vin on their car? Or should I just part out this car. Rear hatch is good, has after market air dam. Wheels are good for a few $$. Doors are ok, have 4 doors. Luckly only $200 in this so far! BTW, the cop from friday that said there was a hidden vin, He was clueless. There is just the 4. Dash, door, wheelwell and firewall.

I'll find out where it is saturday when the cop is here to check!

1 last question. The local cops are coming by in the morning. They say that there is 1 more vin hidden under the car somewhere. They would not send a patrol over now because it has to be a certified vin inspector to run the vin to verify and check it. Of coarse that cop is not there till saturday morning. Is he right that there is a hidden vin under the car somewhere? He said only certified people know where this is.

Dad here. I am going to have the local PD run the vin#. After that I will have fun with the fool in Denver. I am sure police will be called there. along with an address of him and info reguarding the other camero he drives with no title. I am also going to see what he says about returning my $200. Or he can talk to the lawyers. Maybe I can send him a card at the local state run bunk house! I have learned a lesson though. Don't trust ANYONE! Luckly it was only $200 if it is lost. Life will go on.

OK, the BIG question. Say the vin# on the firewall comes back clean from the police. This car DOES NOT HAVE the correct vin plates. They are for a 240z. Can I get this car legal with NO vin# but the one stamped into the firewall? Can you buy certified replacement vin plates? Or do I just part out the car and try to make a few $$ back. Hood, Rear hatch and windows are good. Maybe a few other odds and ends.

Ok, A few questions? 1. If I do a VIN check through my local Police using the proper vin from the firewall. It comes back as not stolen. Can I then get a LEGAL salvage title for it? 2. What do I do about the vin plates? 3. Or do I not involve the PD and just part out for what I can and get back a few of my $$$. Then just cut up and scrap the shell. BTW, thank you to all that have helped out so far!!

actually, his name is Luke, alot of the parts were in his van at the apartment complex and he drove a Camaro without a title too... Its amazing that you saw the same car too =]. lol

Boy oh Boy, now I am pissed. All 3 data plates, drivers door, dash and wheel well all match. They say "HLS30-58465". The stamped number on the firewall says "HLS30-295122":x