240z8

Damn dude, your PO really screwed you on that car, but at least you're getting it fixed. Is that dryer made out or iron or what? I went looking for discarded washers, fridges, and stuff for metal, but all of them were aluminum. I'm just gonna buy a bit of metal from the Ag shop. There is tons of extra metal just lying around from the plasma table that hasn't been moved all year, and Graham said he'll sell it to me because he was just gonna scrap it anyways.

Mini- Update time! I cleaned the inside of the car a bit more; I cleaned the seats, trim, and carpet. I found out that on each floor I'll need a 6.5"x24" patch for the rust. There the only cancerous rust is right on the drain plugs and isn't bad at all, but in between the plugs where there is a dip in the metal there is some rust on both sides that is a little bad but hasn't even gone half way through the metal, but it can hurt to replace it. Also, I finished painting the car with rattle-can primer on everything except the roof and panel under the taillights. As for my last mini-update, I took my diving test at 7:00 this morning and got a 92 on it. I just need to improve on how smooth I turn the wheel and where I sit in the lane, apparently I drive too close to the center line. I can get my provisional driver's license on April 8. That's all for now.

Here's a great site that'll solve part of your problem. http://www.rimsntires.com/rt_specs.jsp You'll need to put in the stock size rim and tire in the first box and then put it the rim and tire size of the new set it in the second box and it'll show you an overall comparison of the different sets side by side. I'm not totally sure how close the stock wheels are to the suspension as they sit, but the rims you described are going to be 1.3" closer to the suspension than a wheel that is 14x6 0mm offset. Someone else is going to need to chime in on that though.

Call him Britney because he did it again. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wjf_djZ0044 At first I thought they were staged, but there aren't ads to make him money from these videos on this one. And the crazy kid breaks stuff. If it was staged I would think they would put ads on the video to make money to pay for the broken stuff.

I did a little more with the new car. I sanded the center console lightly and did a couple coats of Rustoleum Bedliner on it and overall it came out good. When you apply it in extremely small coats it comes out great, but if you put it on like normal spray paint, it will bunch up and become like bedliner I guess. I only had one section that didn't come out the way I wanted it to but it doesn't look bad at all. Here are some pics. Here's the section that didn't come out perfect: And here's the texture everywhere else. It is pretty smooth and it looks good. I also threw the car on jack stands to pull the wheels. Since the tires are good, I might get them swapped to the 5 slot mags that I polished and cleaned up so I can clean up the iron cross wheels. I took a power washer to the entire car just to clean it, then I sanded down the driver's side to steel, and primered the side. I'll probably do the rest of the car during the next week or two. I found very minimal body damage. There are some very shallow dings in the fender, on top and on the sides, the wheel arches are pushed in a bit, and there is a little bondo underneath the side marker in the front. There is also a little damage right above the body line on the front of the door where there are 3 holes from body repair and there is a crease in the door like the door was opened into something skinny or got caught on the fender while it was opened or something. I found 4-6 holes from body repair right above the drip rails in the middle of the door opening on the roof. However, with the roof, the body repair person must have been really good because the roof is smooth and there isn't bondo on it because there is surface rust everywhere around the holes. Here's a picture of the car now like 3-4 minutes after I primered the door: Also, there is some coating on the iron cross wheels that sorta gives it a matte or satin finish, but is coming off in most places leaving a polished surface behind; the power washer wouldn't take off the coating. Does anyone here know what the coating is? Is it normal with the wheels? And what does it take to get it off? These wheels have barely any road rash from what I remember and I think they would look good polished, or at least prettied up. Thanks, Justin

This is the only car I know of with 18's: Here's the thread where I found the picture http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/80941-i-stole-a-car-yesterday/page__p__767760__hl__i%20stole%20a%20car__fromsearch__1&&do=findComment&comment=767760

Yeah, I noticed that after someone else brought it up. I thought it was $100 for one flare because the ebay description, well, kinda sucks to say the least.

Soooo, who do I have to beg to get the title of this thread changed to 240z8's '71 V8 240z Project? I need it changed because it's a lie... We picked up another Z today. Back in August, we emailed a guy about a '71 240z for $300 in Albuquerque, but ended up not getting it, and a couple weeks ago, my dad was going through his old emails and saw those emails and emailed the guy asking if he still had the car. We went and picked it up today for $200. It's in great condition rust wise. The floors only have very small rust spots around the front drain plug on both sides, the battery tray looks to be solid with no cancerous rust, the spare tire well is perfect, the wheel wells are rust-free, and the frame rails are fine. The only bad rust is in the doglegs; the rust made huge holes through them. The paint on the car is crap to put it nicely as there is minor surface rust everywhere, but that'll all be gone soon. There is a weird situation with the title though, we have the New Mexico title for the car from Feb 1994 with some guys name on it, and on the back where you transfer titles to another person, he wrote his own name in that spot and like May 1994 as the date of transfer and his address was in Nevada. Jump forward 11-12 years, another person has the car, who sells it to a Marine, who tries to get it registered in California and can't, so the Marine sells it to the person we got it from, and now we have it. We have no idea if the title was transfered from the owner in 1994 to another owner, or if it is still in his name. We have the bills of sale from the owner in 2005 to the Marine, the Marine to the owner we got it from, and at guy to us, but nothing before 2005. SUBJECT CHANGE TIME!!! Here are some pics: Front shot: 3/4 Shot: Interior: Driver side: On the trailer: Rust : The rust looks pretty bad from those pictures, but that is because the dirt and orange paint on the floors. From underneath the car, those were the only spots I could see, and it didn't look like they spread. Cleaned out a bit: Rear shot: I'm pleased with the rear end, its mostly straight, it has a cool bumper bar (it needs 3 more bolts, only one bolt is holding the bar on. That's why it looks bent.), the taillights are clean and un-cracked, the hydraulic strut holds up the hatch, all the tubing for the vents in the hatch are still there, and it has working louvers. It was made in 1/71 and it's VIN is 20,388. I think it's definitely worth the $200 I payed. It has a good interior for the most part, a straight body with no major body damage, awesome looking iron-cross wheels, and decent tires. In the spirit of updatey updateness, I have done a little more on my dash. I filled all the cracks with Great Stuff, trimmed it, sanded it down, and started working with the Bondo bumper repair. I used 2 of them already and need to pick up some more. I did a bad job with the first bumper repair kit and didn't spread it out too well so it didn't cover as much as I'd like, but I did a much better job with the second one. I still might need some more to fill a couple cracks and gouges that are left. I have 3 cracks filled in totally, but need to sand those down. I have to fill in a few more cracks that aren't totally smooth, and there are some gouges on the front that I need to smooth out and the dash will be ready for me to finish. So far it has come out pretty good. I have about 14 hours total in the dash including taking it apart, cleaning it, sanding the frame, painting the frame, reattaching the frame to the pad temporarily, filling the Great Stuff, prepping the Great Stuff, using the Bondo bumper repair, and sanding the bumper repair. I think I'll probably have about 20-30 hours in the dash total when I'm totally done with reassembling it. I'm sorry about the long posts, I just like to explain everything.

Yeah, that would look great. I was thinking that and did a quick photoshop. It's not very good, but what do you expect for 15 minutes of work? I don't think I got the window angle right though.

Dude, if I could get my hands on a Fiero GT for a decent price, I would $natch it up in a heartbeat. Those cars look awesome with chop-tops:

I did a quick photoshop for ya. I left the trim chrome because I tried to color it and it looked crappy. It's not spot on with the plum crazy color, but it's kinda close. Definitely purple though. I used a pic of Big-Phil's car to do this because all of my pics are crap and his was the best on my hard drive. EDIT: Woooo, my 100th post!

I wish I would have remembered that about a year ago... I got 3 days out of school though. Always use a mask or goggles when welding. Burnt eyes hurt like a sonofabitch.

I'm liking those shaved headlight buckets. I'm liking them a lot. You have a very good looking car there.

For effing up zombies!!! Right?

The wide ZG flares that 280zforce sells are $390 for a set. They are a 10 bucks cheaper than those eBay ones and probably much better quality too. I'm definately thinking about getting a set myself. They look freaking awesome.

If you could travel through a perfect vacuum at the speed of light, would you progress through time? And if you could travel faster than the speed of light, could you regress through time?

I think powdercoating the trim would be a bad idea. The mounts and stuff have minor imperfections. Kinda like if you painted some stuff with glossy paint, then dust and stuff fell on it, then you did another coat of paint over the dust. I am probably just gonna paint the trim black or leave it chrome, depending on what color I paint the car. And for brakes, I'm thinking just sticking with the stock brakes for now. I'm not sure what my dad is planning, but that's what I'm thinking of doing. The brakes work fine for now. Oh, and no one actually answered my question, are the 280z stub axles stronger than the 240z stub axles? Also, I'm not sure how the axles are mounted to everything else, and I can't go look without getting totally covered in snow (it's snowing again here), but are the axles a straight swap or do I have to swap parts from the 280z rear suspension to get them to fit?

Page 8 and 9 have been void of pictures... So, here's your present(the picture, not the parts)! That's the v8 mount kit all powdercoated and looking pretty.

Ok, I have a mini update. We slipped the new cam in and put on the gear drive. We got a new key for the harmonic balancer today, so we can start putting the engine back together. The engine mounts and stuff for the mounting kit are still at the powdercoater, but they should be ready. I have a quick question. When I swap the r200 over to the 240z, do I have to swap the 280z stub axles too? And I think I read somewhere that the 280z stub axles are stronger than the 240z axles, and I'm looking for some confirmation on that too.

The dash is mostly out, but the cage thing that goes behind the radio got caught on the radio and I just gave up on the dash because I didn't want to mess up anything more than it already is. I was already pissed from smacking my head a lot, finding the wiring like that, and before I had spent a good half hour using a shop vac to suck out the busted up sound deadening and I was kinda tired (mentally, not physically), so I was just like screw it and put up my tools and went in the house. Is the combination switch right behind the steering wheel, like in the general area near the ignition?

I'm just wondering, how exactly did you fix your dash? I read everything posted, and unless my brain decided to exclude only that part, I didn't see how you did it. Like most people, my dash is cracked, and cracked bad. I'm really looking for just a straight forward walk through on filling cracks. I was thinking of using maybe a small amount of expandable foam to fill the cracks, then using Bondo to smooth it out, then coating it with bed liner. Your method looks really good, and I'm liking it.

Here, we get 2 days out for 6 inches most of the time.

It snowed up there too? It snowed a ton down here, the doors on the f150 were frozen shut. We even got 2 days off from school.

I was already thinking about trying to fix the jacked up wiring, but I have no idea on how to get the wires back in the connectors. I was looking at the wiring diagram here http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/wiringdiagrams/240z/1971_240z.gif and noticed that on the car, there is a red wire and a blue wire going into an inline fuse going to the blower motor, and the blue wire is cut way further back on the car. There was another blue wire, I don't remember if it had a stripe though, and it was cut. The other blue wires I see on the diagram are going to the ignition switch, the accessory relay, the cooler, the wiper motor, and the combination switch. I have a question about that too, what is the accessory relay, the cooler, and the combination switch? Oh, and another thing, when I had been trying to fix the wiring before, I could get the blower to work and blow air out all of the vents, so I don't know if wires are bypassed or anything.