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Mike33Stig last won the day on October 28 2021

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  1. So I found the problem while going over the vacuumal lines again. It was a bad connection to the temperature sensor causing the motor to run very rich. Cleaned and tightened up the connection and all is well again. @NewZed Thank you once again. It was just luck i found this bad connection when i bumped the harness in the area.
  2. 1978 280z L28. Full emissions delete. So she was running great and strong. Drove the car all day. On my way home, I had a little fun. Opened her up a little. She pulled nicely. Then I turned a corner and the car got rough and I had to shut it down. I had to tighten up the AFM quite a bit to the lean side to get her to run again. So my assumption is a vacuum leak. The problem is that I can not find it. I have all new vacuum lines and all extra ports are capped off. I inspected all lines and caps in good shape. I then went with a can of carb cleaner around the intake to try and get a rise, with no effect. Also checked timing again. Solid @ 11 degrees. Fuel pressure around 36-38psi. All symptoms point to a vacuum leak but for the life of me I just can't find the source. She was running great. And then not. No immediate signs of the problem. Just the symptoms. The only vacuum lines I have are brake booster, dist vac advice, charcoal canister, FPR and pcv valve if you want to call that a vacuum. All thoughts and suggestions are welcome as always. And thank you in advance.
  3. Awesome. This is the answer I'm looking for. That the plugs are not getting hot enough to clean themselves. Tomorrow I will order NGK copper plugs. And and I will lean the mix. I really need to install an exhaust with a wideband to dial this car in. And you are correct. I don't want to think the rings are bad already. I'd like to try all other possibilities before I pull the motor again. My lovely neighbor doesn't like to see un-operable vehicles in my driveway, and likes to complain to the city... Hits the open header 😁
  4. @NewZed what I was saying is that I have already adjusted the afm to the lean side. And I can adjust it more if it is thought to be a running rich issue. In the last picture. See the new plug on the right with gold marking. This plug is after the two drive cycles. I should have referenced it with a "cleaned" plug. This is my mistake. I will take a new picture in the morning. I want to do this to distinguish what the old "cleaned" plugs look like compared to a new plug after the same drive cycle. The white smoke is only a whisp at high rpm when I rev the motor. It's not a heavy smoke. And I'm running open header. If I richin the mixture I don't get any smoke. Maybe a small whisp of black at high rpm when I rev the motor.
  5. Coolant level is perfect. No loss and no smell from exhaust. I cleaned the plugs again and installed 1 brand new plug just for reference(marked with gold paint marker). I will attach pictures of plugs before cleanin, after, and the new plug. The last picture is after two short drive cycles running lean. These plugs just don't clean up very well. I'm starting to suspect more of a weak or failing ignition coil now. I don't want to be too fast to condemn the E3 plugs. It would be nice if they supplied a data sheet though.
  6. @jonbill I know black is the sign of rich. I can clean them and adjust the AFM leaner but I'm already getting white smoke. I don't want to do damage to the motor. I'm more concerned if the E3 plugs burn at a proper temperature for our motors or not, causing a false rich look while the motor is infact running lean. Has anyone heard of something like this before? Or a similar experience?
  7. As title suggests. Has anyone had good or bad experiences using E3 spark plugs? I typically use NGK copper, but I got a good deal on a set of E3.46 plugs and coupled with the initial testing/tuning issues of my new motor, I managed to foul them out. After a cleaning they worked ok-ish. But look fouled again when I'm pretty sure I'm running lean -> white smoke. Curious about other's experiences and thoughts! Thank you!
  8. Try unplugging the oil pressure sensor. This should trigger the fuel pump to turn on and stay on as a test.
  9. @NewZed @AydinZ71 Problem solved! Never be afraid to re-visit the basics. 9/10 it's something so simple hahah. ... Fouled plugs. I had been running too rich. Now I set her up on the lean side to help burn the crud off that I couldn't get myself, then I will richin up the mix after my next short drive cycle. Before and after videos attached. Thank you all for the help!!!!! 😁😁😁
  10. @AydinZ71 I will try adding more fuel through the intake and see if that will clear her up. And I will check the points on the distributor again and check all the plugs this afternoon. @NewZed The AFM has already been tampered with. I re-calibrated it using the information from Atlanticz. But would not run in this orientation. I then did the yogurt cup test and had great results and a strong vacuum at idle. My only leaks were at the butterfly valve on the TB and the small crack in the TB boot. Now I have not made any permanent adjustments to the AFM. But usually I can find the sweet spot by fingering the AFM at idle and at a higher rpm and get it close to where it's happy. Can't be 100% until I get a wideband. In my previous post on this forum I had an issue with a blockage in my fuel return line causing high pressure 95psi. And at that time I checked all my injectors and made sure I'm getting a good pulse with noid lights. I still suspect the AFM at this point because I had a similar issue before and it was the culprit. But now I can not get it to run correctly by adjusting (fingering) the AFM. I do have a 2nd AFM I can try. But I think it's in worse condition. I will try to upload a video this evening. Thank you!
  11. Hi everyone! Back at it again. 1978 280Z. L28 with ALL emissions deleted including cold start and bcdd valve. The problem is, when I start the car it is very difficult to start, and it sounds like it's only firing on 1 cylinder. I have tried re-adjusting the AFM at idle and at higher RPM. seems to have made no difference. The motor is solid. Good compression and strong spark (although I may visit this again). It was running great last time I drove her after repairing a blockage in the fuel return line. Fuel pressure is perfect around 36psi +/-. Only change made was taping up a small crack on the throttle body to AFM boot (temporary fix) and replacing the battery. All thoughts and ideas are more then welcome. Thank you! Happy motoring! Wish I can be a part of it, but my car won't run right hahah 😩
  12. Tank is fixed and fuel pressure is proper! I read online about using a speedometer cable cut to length and just like you said, run it through the holed with a drill just like a snake. I had to do this a few times with slightly longer lengths each time. Finally made it through the blockage and fuel started flowing out. Fuel ressure is now stable around 36-38psi Now I need to calibrate my AFM again and I should be golden. Thank you for your help! Happy motoring!
  13. I just checked the return lines from the rail to the tank. Used an air compressor @120psi to blow through. Everything checked good until I got to the tank itself. I'm positive I'm connected to the line for return. It would be the lower line. The line right above it would be the feed line. As much as I don't want to, I think I will have to drop the tank. I tried a thin piece of steel to fish through and unblock the line, but I can get about 5-6" deep and it seems im hitting a wall or hard bend. I restored this tank about 12 years ago using a por15 restor kit and I'm afraid the liner might have blocked the return line.
  14. Ok. Update time. New fuel pressure gauge is installed and it's telling me what I was suspicious of. Immediately showed around 93psi 😬 I disconnected the return line and placed the return hose into a gas can, fuel pressure then dropped to 40psi. When re connected it system will hold around 25psi at rest reliably. So now I'm thinking I have 2 issues to resolve. 1 - Return line is restrictive. 2 - FPR is not sufficient enough. I'm running a stock regulator. It doesn't have any leaks and works well, but it seems it can not keep up with this 95psi pump.
  15. My apologies, I think I didn't explain enough. It acts like it's getting too much fuel. When adding more tension to afm (making it leaner) it runs beautiful. All valves are adjusted correctly. I did a cold adjustment during the build. Exhaust set @.010 - intake @.008. I would like to adjust again when warm. The distributor looks to be in decent condition. I have cleaned all points on cap and rotor. Spark is strong. I'm not too sure about the vacuum advice. I'll look for a way to test this. And ignition timing seems dead on. I'll put a timing light on it again tomorrow to confirm where it's at. I will also be installing a permanent fuel pressure gauge tomorrow if amazon arrives early 🙏 I have a feeling my fpr is not working correctly causing high pressure in the rail and a over fueling situation. I'll report back in a day or two with results. Thank you!
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