jersey280

Hey guys, I have a 76 280z with stock L28. When I turn the ignition over to run, as to engage the fuel pump, everything works fine. Pump turns on, car will start and run smoothly. If I engage the fuel pump and let the car sit before actually turning the motor over, a clicking noise comes from the area of the injectors. It can only be described as a "electronic click" that lasts about 1.5 seconds. It does not sound healthy, almost like a electrical short. I disconnected all injectors and tried again, noise gone. I then individually plugged the injectors in one by one, and each one of the "clicked" one by one. Anyone have any experience with this? I can only assume this isn't good. Thanks!

Based on my "investigation" the only 2 issues ive located so far were the blown bulb (which i removed) and the hack job marker light (cut it). I suppose my question is, in an attempt to limit possibilities, would either of those two things ive done potentially cause a short? Does a bulb need to be in place to complete a circuit on this car? Thanks

Hey guys, Have a 1976 280Z. Every time I turn on my headlights, I can visually watch fuse number 8 (top right fuse) blow. The headlights themselves do work, along with my brake lights and hazard lights. What doesn't work is my running lights/side marker or blinkers. I've inspected and cleaned every single bulb socket and checked for frayed wires. Additionally, a few months ago I rebuilt combination switch which worked perfectly.I only identified two possible issues, one being a blown passenger side rear running light, which I've removed. The passenger side marker light appeared to have a old splice job on it so I removed it temporarily. I'm not sure if the one blown buld and the removed side marker would cause a short in the system? Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!

Hey guys, Own a 76 280z which I recently competed the Toyota 4x4 brake swap on. Additionally, I swapped the master cylinder with a 280zx for better pedal feel. All items are new refurbished from Rockauto. It was my first time "bench bleeding" a master cylinder, didn't seem too difficult and I did my best. I reinstalled the MC and for some reason I cannot seem to bleed these brakes. I have used the 2 person technique and I have the 1 person hand suction pump. I slowly move fluid from the MC reservoirs using the hand pump but I cannot get it to go to solid fluid, its always an air fluid mix and unable to get a pedal. I have read online that just incase I had completed the bench bleed of the MC incorrectly, that I would still be able to bleed the brakes. Is this not the case with our car? Am I missing something here? Did I get trash parts from Rockauto? Any help or ideas I appreciate, Thanks so much! -Jersey280

Yeah I wired all 3 smaller gauges and tested them. All gave a signal and produced illumination. Then I moved along to the speedo and tach, which ultimately caused the 3 small gauges to stop powering on.

Morning guys! Own a 1976 280z stock. I recently received a very generous Christmas gift of full Intellitronix gauges for the Z (Speedo, Tach, Fuel, WTemp, Oil press). I am trying to delete the clock and voltage meter. Each gauge comes with 4 wires (Power, Ground, Signal, Highlight Dim) I have installed the Fuel, Wtemp and oil pressure gauge in the appropriate location by cutting the connector off the stock gauge, splicing and taping into the connector with the new gauge and then plugging it into the stock harness via the stock connector. I was able to get a image and reading from all three gauges. I then decided it was time to move along to the speedo and tach. As soon as I removed the tach/speedo I have lost all power to my 3 smaller gauges. I attempted to reinstall them but realized I had already "hacked" into the tach with the new tachometer so its not possible for me to recreate a stock tach setup. I don't seem to understand why this is happening, checked all fuses as well. Is it a better idea for me to wire all the gauges off 1 power, 1 grnd, 5 individual signal wires, and 1 headlight dim wire? I apologize if this is vague, electrical work is daunting. Thanks for any input!

Hey guys, May have a hook up with a transmission guy on willing to do side work and rebuild my 1978 5sp, I believe its a fs5w71b. I have been researching rebuild kits and have found plenty of options. A few kits on ebay are extremely affordable as well. I want the kit to be legit and reliable. With that said, I don't want to pay for something that isnt necessary. I feel some of the Z only stores have jacked up prices on things and am just looking to pay for what something is worth. Does anyone have experience with an affordable kit or should I just bite the bullet and potentially over pay from zcarsource or zstore? Thanks -Jersey280

Thanks for the responses! I would love to see a around a 9" rear wheel with a 265-275 on it with a 7"-8" front with a 225-235. Just seeing if anyone has something around that and what offset would be needed ect. Thanks againt

Hey guys, I have located several topics regarding maximum wheel size on my S30. Unfortunately, the information is all over the place and hard to decipher. I own a 1976 280z with stock brakes, Tokico lowering springs with Tokico HP shocks. Additionally, I order the ZG style 3" rear 2" front fender flares that I plan to install. I am currently interested in either 16" or 15" wheels and am trying to obtain as large of a rear tire as possible with a staggered front wheel/tire size. I am not trying to push the limits with size to an uncomfortable level and realize that their are some manufacturing tolerance differences between cars. Does anyone know approximately how wide a wheel, offset, ect and tire combo that I can use with this set up without running into issues? Thanks for any information! -Jersey280

Hey guys, Small issue with my fuel gauge on my 1976 280z L28. Recently had my fuel sending unit rebuilt, which turned out fantastic. While testing the unit I was able to determine that when I move the lever to the "full" position it moves the interior gauge needle well past the full line and when I move the lever to the empty position it rests in the half full position on the gauge. Is there something I can do to adjust the needle on this gauge or is it deeper then that? Thanks a lot!

SOLVED Although all lights flashed and illuminated, all it needed was a new front turn signal bulb. Works like a charm now. Thanks for the help.

Hey guys, Own a 1976 280z with a swapped 1978 280z L28 in it. When I purchased the car the P.O advised that the turn signal did not operate. After just recently completing the swap and getting my car running, I decided to attack the turn signal issue. At the time, the signal was clearly dirty and operated sloppy. No indicator on the dash nor did any of the lights work when you tried to use it. I found the write up online on how to clean and adjust it and did so. I was able to make it look and operate flawlessly. I have perfect ohm readings between all connections when table tested. I then reinstalled it into the vehicle, this is the odd part. I now get complete functionality of my right turn signal but not the left. When I press it into the left, it triggers the relay, blinks twice and stays solid. The dash indicator works for both sides. I thought maybe I repaired it incorrectly, but decided to test a jumper wire instead. I jumped the connector for the turn signal where it meets the "harness". When I use a jumper wire and jump the right turn signal, it operates perfectly. When I jump the left turn signal it does exactly what it does at the switch. I believe that eliminates it being a bad turn signal switch? Any ideas on where to look next? Would a bad relay work for one side and not the other? Only additional weird thing I found was that my hazard switch works fine until I put the key in the on or run position, then it shuts off and my blinkers only work when the car is on the run position. Hope that made sense! Thanks ahead of time!

Thanks again zed. I will try it out and post the results.

Hey guys, Recently fixed all my issues with getting my 1976 280z L28 4sp running! In the process I replaced the slave and master clutch cylinder and bled them. Only remaining issue is that occasionally when press the clutch in, and I attempt to put the car into gear it will grind. If i release and attempt again, it goes in no problem and drives fine. I am doubting I have a transmission issue and am leaning more towards the slave possibly not extending far enough to cause proper engagement. Has anyone experienced this? Any things I should check to ensure I don't have a larger issue? Any help greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Evil, I could use help getting this thing running smoothly! If you ever have free time and just want to talk Z, we are 10 minutes from eachother. Let me know

Thanks as usual Zed. Just adjust the idle screw? Or adjust and advance timing? She's sitting at 550-600 at the moment.

I haven't owned a 280z before so I am unaware of the "running right" sound to look for. It sounds a little lopey and was concerned it may be a vacuum or afm issue. I am attempting to see if one of you gurus would be able to tell me if besides increasing the idle speed, do these cars naturally have a lope to them? Engine is a recent rebuilt by a PO and I've spent countless hours cleaning, checking voltages and assuring things were connected correctly, which they all appear to be.

https://youtu.be/bvOdFOTn6aI Sorry this should the working link

Finally got her started! 1976 280z with 6-1 MSA headers and MSA performance exhaust. It revs fine and all just sounds a little off. What do yall think? https://youtu.be/bvOdFOTn6al

Zed, Thanks for the response. I get a little confused if I should be putting 76 afm on the 78 l28 or does it matter?

Hey guys, Just recently purchased a 1976 280z. Along with the purchase, I bought a recently rebuilt L28 with transmission from a 1978 280z. I personally witnessed it running like a top, within its original 1978 vehicle. I removed the original motor, which would run smooth but suffered from a "warped" head and was burning oil. I installed the new rebuilt motor from the 78, in which i just recently have been able to test start. The engine runs extremely rough and backfires from the intake occasionally upon reving. I have read many topics regarding chasing down fuel issues, or AFM ect ect. I personally witnessed both vehicles run perfectly prior to my ape hands getting involved. I feel that I may be experiencing some sort of issue regarding differences between the 76 and 78 EFI or computer related issues. Does anyone have a suggestion on what could be causing this or more in particular, what things should I look out for when swapping a 78 L28 into a 76 harness? Thanks in advance!

Thanks for the input NewZed. That leads me to the second portion of the issue. The sender is the only thing currently not connected correctly. When I first test started the car the other day, I could hear the fuel pump prime and it would fire up. After about 5 seconds it would die. Does the oil pressure sender tell the fuel pump to continue to pump fuel?

Good Morning, I own a 1976 280z with the original L28. I purchased the vehicle with a bad original motor but a good 4sp. With the purchase of the car, I bought a running 1978 280z L28. I just recently put the 1978 L28 in my 1976 and have ran into a little issue. My oil pressure sender uses a nipple style connection, rather then a ring and nut type connection on the 1976. My question is, should I cut off the ring connector to the harness and splice in a nipple connector, or should I attempt to put a 1976 oil sender onto the 1978 block? Thanks for your time guys! -Dane