coolbeans

This hardware may be an option?It's cable deck railing hardware. I've used it on residential decks it is really quality hardware. http://catalog.lexcocable.com/viewitems/swageless-fittings/ittings-swageless-threaded-stud-br-stainless-steel

I'll go ahead and do the frame stifffening and contemplate what stiffness of spring to use. I currently run 225 tires in the front and 235 in the rear on 9.5 and 10" rims. considering new rims for the front and using the same size tire. Is there any more opinion on stiffer front springs versus stiffer rear springs? Thanks for all the great advise and things to think about.

After a little research I've discovered we could have been racing XP all along. Back to the spring issue. Do springs advertise the Hz range on the springs? I did not notice that on the eibachs. A couple of threads I read where they were running stiffer springs in the front had something to do with the quaife they were running and pushing issues. They also brought into the conversation the whole sway bar size in the front and no bar in the rear topic. I had loosened my rear swaybar the last couple races and think that was a mistake? Where exactly do the tokico illuminas lose their ability to perform? 250# 275# 300# 325# 350# ? If I run 300# 325# would I then need frame stiffening and new struts? and are the bulldog frame rails enough or would you just build your own? Thanks

Not sure if I ever posted the pics of the volk te37v wheels or not. 15x10 with 4" backspacing and toyo r888 235/50/15 all the way around. I know I was doing some work and the front tires need to get swapped, they are on the wrong side. oops, tgried to edit and ended up with 2 posts

Thanks for all the input. The car was initially built for street fun and a friend of mine turned me on to autox, damn him. I've got about 700 miles on the car since finishing it and 650 of those have to do with racing, either driving to or racing. I'm confused about the XP class. Me and a buddy built z cars, his with a traditional SBC and mine with ls1. After our 1st season we were told we HAD to go to EM class by a veteran member because we were not running corperate motors? I have adjustable A-arms so I believe that may keep me from SM class? Being new we did not question the switch but I would certainly prefer XP. I'll have to do some research to prove this guy wrong I guess. As far as the car goes I don't mind it being for race mostly, I've got other projects for street duty. The picture there is while slowing down and that is when I experience the loss of control in the rear. I did have about an 1.25" rake in the car front to back measured at the seams. I've adjusted that to 1/2 ", lowering the rear. The car is pushing a little over 500HP One of the surfaces we run on the most is concrete like shown in the pic, this is where I notice the problem but it is also alot faster track. The poly bushings are only on the inboard side because I'm running TTT control arms and tension rods. Thanks everyone

I've finally got a couple seasons of autocrossing under my belt and am looking for suggestions. The car has been one progression after another toward racing. The car started as a street driver, as a result I've done everything twice. It's an ls1 car with 6 speed and a quafie r200 with wolf racing 1/2 shafts, adjustable a a-arms all the way around and adjustable tension rods. I've sectioned the struts and am running coilovers with 225F/250R springs. Also wilwoods all the way around, weld in camber plates in the front and none in the rear but run about 2.2* camber in the rear with a arm adjustment. I'm looking to increase the spring rates. I've noticed that some are running more spring in the front and some are running more spring in the rear. What makes the determination? I haven't stiffened the frame yet and was wondering how stiff you might recommend? Also am I doing the right thing by running poly bushings? The car weighs right at 2850 lbs with driver and is 1475 in the rear with me in it and 1/2 tank gas. Any input would be appreciated. This photo shows some of the issues I'd like to address. The picture was taken on a 50 mph transition. The car has way to much lean. I also experienced the rear of the car breaking loose at higher speed corners. I'm running Tokico adjustables all the way around. 1" sway in the front and 5/8" in the rear lossened up a bit.

Yes, I was test fitting the 235 on the front with the other rear tire

Couldn't resist the new Volk TE37V. I'll post more when I get it on the ground.15x10 4" back spacing with 235/50-15 r888's front and rear. I had it there the other day but I'm working on changing to 3.90 gears this week before next sundays race.

I also did not mention it was the pinion flange that it was hitting and it's a bigger aftermarket swaybar. So as the driveline turned it was hitting on the edge of the flange itself and barly on the allen head bolts on the long side of the rectangular flange

The problem partly is the pinion flange is a 1975 that is rectangular intsead of square or round. I currently do not have an rt mount at all, it's a new factory mount. I don't think I need more then a 1/8th or 3/16th inch. Does someone make the rt mount to buy or is there a diagram to make it? I probably should strenghthen any weak spot I have and it sounds like poeple have had problems with diff mounts in the past. Thanks for the info

OK, now I feel a little stupid. The noise is coming from the differential nose coming down and hitting the sway bar or the swaybar moving up or both. I,m still wondering about the Quaife and how it is suppose to feel being a 1 way diff. Did I feel something or just hear something? I'm also wondering if the rt mount would fix the issue of the diff nose diving down, I see it would limit the up motion. I didn't notice any of this until I recently put on the r888's.

Hey John, I'm running a t56. Would the trans make a chattering noise or loud clicking when downshifting hard like that? It also made the noise on a hard decel from 6000 rpm without shifting down. I hadn't thought about the clutch it seems to be working great on acceleration. Thanks

I raced today and it was the first time I've really downshifted hard since putting the Quaife in an r200 280z. The rearend seemed to slip or not engage right away downshifting from 3000 rpm or so. It made a grinding kind of noise until it engaged and then went on as normal. It works awesome in every other way and makes no strange noises or humming.It did this several times while downshifting to first gear from midrange rpm. I hadn't noticed the problem until I put aggressive tires on and really started to push the car. I took the rearend to a shop to have it installed as I didn't want to try a setup on such an expensive diff. I've not had any problems or issues with the rearend in 500 miles since finishing the car.

So my current driveline adapter from the 1975 rearend can be used on the new pinion gears from the 3:90 set out of a zx ????? Just swap the gears and good to go with my same driveline???

Does anyone know of a source for a new gearset? looking for a 3:70 or possible a 3:90. Aftermarket or oem?? Thanks

I have a 75 280z with a Quaife rearend, It's an r200. I'm wondering if I can buy 3:90 gears with the 12MM bolts from the zx and install. The Quaife comes with both 10 and 12 mm bolt holes. I'm only asking because I think the later model gears might be easier to find ?? I might be wrong about that but I haven't found a source for gears. Thanks

What are the symptoms of a broken or worn Diff mount? I ask because I recently discovered a movement in the rear of the car that occurs when I accelerate or decelerate. It is more noticable on deceleration but is there on acceleration as well. When I let off the gas the car seems to slide out in the rear to the right. I have a Quafie rearend and Wolf racing cv joints. I recently ran sticky tires on the car as well. Any help would be great Jeff

I've got a problem with my rearend i'm not sure of, I've got a 75 280z with an r200. I ordered a quaife for it and took it to a shop for install. They replaced all the seals and I believe he ordered shims. After driving it for a couple hundred miles the rearend has some slop. I jacked the car up and turned the wheels and there is quite a bit of slop between the wheel spin and the driveline spin. It became noticable through clunking when clutching. I'm not sure if it was not setup properly or if something else might be the issue? any help will be appriciated. Thanks

1. This is a 1975 280z with an LS1 and T56. 2. I used Johns car kit for motor/tranny mounts and driveshaft. 3. I used a camero ls plastic tank and pump. The motor has Patriot 205 heads, comp cams 11-424 cam (558 lift), 85 mm throttle body on a Professional Products manifold. 30lb injectors with 75lbs of pressure. MSD Blaster coils. Sanderson headers 2.5 inch into a single 3 inch. 4. I started on January1st 2009 and just finished in August 2009 5. Other mods include tokico adjustable shocks and springs. Toyota 4x4 front calipers and maxima rear disc brake setup. 2+2 brake booster. polyurethan bushings. Quaife rearend and Wolf Racing cv halfshafts. also bigger swaybars.