Metallicar

I am curious about this subject too. I am getting closer to begining the interior work. I am on the east coast even though this is going on my car

I used Rustoleum Satin Black. It is very hard to scratch or chip, cleans easily, fingerprints and rubs do not show readily. Two years and 40,000 miles later it still looks great. This is an early picture:

That does look like an early corvette color. I had a 46 Ford Convertible painted that color, in 1976!

Try Lowes. The one in Philadelphia just closed out all of the 7 1/2 hp 60 gallon units for $100.00! They could not sell them for $499.00 , so they "dumped" them. U.S. Made Cast Iron 5 year Warranty Go into the store and ask the Manager for the best deal he can make, if they are not priced right.

Looks Great! For the edges look at page 3620 @ http://www.mcmaster.com/ Maybe part number 8451A55

I use the aluminum kit in my lincoln 135 from time to time. I actually made some aluminum windows for a customer's roof house. They did turn out very well, in spite of the fact that I do not weld on a daily basis. It is fairly easy to install and then uninstall the special liner and wheels as needed. Double check the polarity, keep the hose as straight as you can so the soft alum wire does not slow down or kink. You can do it, it is as easy or as hard as everything else you have done so far.

Rustoleum makes an epoxy primer. You can order thru a good paint store or even WWGrainger.

Not me, I'm gonna carve then in stone! Well, maybe ascii files anyway. Don't throw away old knowledge - share it. The stone you cut, may be your own. Nothing wrong with old school anything is there?

If you are buying that... Then you may as well crush you old technology car and buy a new one. Look, I really liked Ernie's posts. I was always lurking here, reading everything he wrote. I would log on to this site a few times a day looking to see if he would post anything new. I would also check other site he has been know to post also. I really miss this. But there is something very wrong with what has happened to his posts. He deemed them "out-of date"? Come on, he effed us.

Well, that's just great, everything just went out the window. No more will I be able to learn from the experienced master. I will now get the info from some johnny come lately sales rep. They have been beating down the door with any and everything to replace the standards that have been in use for the past two decades. I'm gonna go shoot Fido now, becuase the new puppy has learned a new trick. Fido was such a good dog. It's a shame, his tricks were just "out-of date".

How is Ernie? Did he finish his book? Why are all of his techincal posts reduced to a [.]?

Bringing this thread back to life. Tabco called me today! They have just finished making the back ordered parts! From my request February 28th 2007! WOW great customer service:icon56:. Gee, 9 months later, what a gestation period for a couple of body parts!

I bought a pipe cutter that cuts up to 3" OD at a yard sale - $5. Just needed a good cleaning and some oil. It does cut soft pipe fairly well. If you just lightly tighen the wheels as you rotate the cutter, it will not crush the pipe.

Here is a thread with some help I hope: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108261&highlight=racerx I'm looking for more....

That gun works well for thick rustproofing matter, like milkshake thick. Not for regular paint. The nozzle end has large oriface, you might be able to exchange for a smaller one. Perhaps fill the tip with epoxy and redrill with an oriface drill.