baggedgoods
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Everything posted by baggedgoods
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I have an aem wideband gauge that I believe is atleast 18" from the turbo downpipe so we're good there.
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Well I've got it idling and I'm trying to stabilize the afrs. I have 260cc injectors. From 20-100kpa and 600-2500rpms, the cells are around 14-40. The car runs really really rich when I blip the throttle, like 11:1. When i pull it out of gear, it dies right away. I try to give it throttle before I take it out of gear but it hesitates so bad that it won't even increase in rpms. What's going on? I changed from 2 squirts a cycle to 1 and it likes that a lot more. The dead time is 1.2 ms. Required fuel is 12.8. I'm on mobile because I don't have internet on the tuning laptop or else id post up a tune.
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DiY says to use the opto circuit for fuel only and the vr conditioner for everything else.
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I think he's referring to this article. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/other/megasquirt-vr/
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Hmm. So DIY's setup setting should work without any problems or else they wouldn't have posted the information?
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If it still pushes in a little while closed, you should move the striker further in. The loud bang could be caused by the striker hitting the door or walls of the lock before it shuts. You should check if the striker hits anywhere. Try this by closing the door until you know it hits the striker(But do not latch it) and either physically look and see if it touches or watch the body lines while closing the door onto the striker. If the door moves up, adjust the striker down or vise versa. If it doesn't move at all and your body lines dont line up than either your hinge bushings are bad or your hinges are bent. You can either replace the hinges or use one of these https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-65800-Door-Adjuster/dp/B000HAUYFO Most body shops have one of these.
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Yeah, I've got the 1/4 pullup resistor. The hall and optical sensors basically work the same way. I've got the car running and idling really well, but I'm not too sure about adjusting the pots. I've adjusted them according to the diy right up. (7 turns CCW and 2 turns CW on r52(I think)). I think that's just a spot to get it to work properly.
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Depending on your power goals. I've got a 3.0 with a 2.5" down pipe. I believe 2.5" exhaust is rated for 500-600 bhp. I personally believe that using 3" wouldn't hurt anything. A lot of people think the exhaust back pressure would be too low and yada yada. Back pressure is bad for any vehicle. Im pretty sure back pressure has something to do with having a catalytic converter(which I'm sure you dont.) Just make sure you're getting adequate air and you'll be fine. Here's a link about back pressure http://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/exhaust-the-straight-scoop-on-backpressure.168578/
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First Z
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From the album: 85 300zxt
Day I bought it -
From the album: 85 300zxt
New turbo, external wastegate, electric fans, intercooler, and guages installed. -
From the album: 85 300zxt
Megasquirt being a pita -
From the album: 85 300zxt
The only time you'll see the front -
Well that's good to know. I'm glad I don't have to feel like a dumbass when I get obvious sarcastic comments, like how I'm stupid for not knowing the answer to my own question. Now as for the PW stability, would just changing the dead time help? Or would adjusting the current limit and such be the way to go. The current limit I'm using is what the megamanual says to use for low z injectors without resistors in line. I know the megamanual is out of date but I think those are good numbers to start with at the least. Also, the RPM stability. Should I just decrease the latency a bit? Or would I adjust the pots in the board. The whole "hysteresis and the other one (I forgot)" have me lost. Mind you, I am using the VR conditioner circuit and not the opto circuit.
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Wasn't necessarily referring to just the first post. If you read through the first page you'll see what I'm talking about. I hooked up my AAC valve back on to the intake (no wires connected) and ran a line to my intake. Fires right up and idles great. Like I was thinking, the intake wasn't getting enough air to idle properly. I believe I fixed the sporadic pulse widths as well. I adjusted my dead time from 0.7ms to 1.2ms. The PW still tends to jump around by maybe 0.5 How would I be able to stabilize it even further to where it jumps maybe <0.1 at idle. Also my RPMs seem to also jump around by maybe 20-30. Would I stabilize that by increasing/decreasing the latency? Or by adjusting the trim pots on the board? I'm still new to this forum and I understand that some of my questions can be answered by looking at msextra or in the manual. I find it easier to grasp when someone explains it in their terms or points me in the right direction. Do people get pissed off about these types of questions?
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I meant to say, how are their cars running and idling properly with the air regulator and iacv removed only using their stock ecu? You'd think it'd hardly run without any of that. Here's a link to one post. https://z31performance.com/forum/z31-basics/basic-modifications-basic-questions-aka-the-newbie-forum/7356-stock-crap-that-can-be-removed
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Pictures of the bay, as you can see, there's hardly any vacuum lines anywhere and you can see the block off plates.
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Same here And yeah, it was just a hunch about bypassing the throttle. But how do you suppose people running their stock ecus are doing it? It seems to me that all they're doing is unplugging it and making block off plate for it and it runs great (besides cold startup I guess) but my car doesn't like any setting I give it for air/Fuel wise at operating temp. It will die every time unless I'm giving it a little throttle
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I believe that the pwm valve was there just so air can bypass the throttle plate and reach the intake directly. I'm thinking of 3 ways I can make it work without an idle valve. 1. Weld a bung to the block off plate where the aac valve was and feed a line from the intake pipe bung to the plenum. That'll mean that my intake has ambient air whether the throttle is open or not. 2. Adjust my butterfly valve so it's somewhat open while idling. 3. Replace the block off plate with the aac valve and figure a way to run the pwm valve correctly(as stated above, it didn't run very good while it was connected to the MS) although I like the look waay more without that big ass valve
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Do you have a blueprint for one of those fake feet? I'm very intrigued by that. I haven't hooked my idle valve up to megasquirt because I can't figure out how to wire it up. I'm pretty positive I had only the pwm valve and the aac and no iac. I wired my pwm valve in but the car ran better with it unplugged.
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Haha you've got a point. I think that the air valves not being wired up might have been wide open to allow more air into the intake. Plus the aac valve had the idle screw on it. But like i said, I've heard of people removing all the idle "shit" (with the stock ecu) and it running just fine.
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Alrighty. I had custom made my intake pipe to have two bungs on it (1 for AAC, the other for the air regulator) I've capped both, the hard line vacuum lines and coolant lines have been removed as well. I'm not at my car right now and have no pictures of the throttle body. The only line to the throttle body and intake pipe is the coolant line for the TB. After work tonight, I'll upload the new firmware. But for where the car is sitting now, I don't have internet access, would that be an issue? Or is the firmware a software that can be downloaded and uploaded without internet? And do you have a quick guide as to how that's done? (Sometimes the MS manual goes over my head) JUST KIDDING, I FOUND THE DIY EXPLANATION, WE'RE GOOD HERE I'm just puzzled because prior to removing all the intake shit, the car idled fairly well without me having to adjust anything. I did remove a few unused vacuum lines that went to the vacuum pump?(above the carbon canister) and plugged them. They weren't plugged to anything since ive started this megasquirt project, but I only plugged the lines and hadn't gotten around to removing them yet.
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It's an 85 300zx turbo. I have a stock fuel system, stock ignition system (except for drop in DiY wheel), bigger turbo, intercooler, 38mm wastegate, AEM wideband. I want to run 15psi until it runs really well, then I'll switch to e85 with an upgraded fuel system and throw a bit more boost at it. The reason for the main table being only for an NA is because I plan to use dual table for both fuel and ignition. I'm just trying to get the car to run before I mess with any boost. I've deleted the maf, air regulator, stock ecu, power transistor, idle valve and egr valve. TunerStudios says that low z injectors normally have .7 ms dead time. But a longer dead time would be less fuel correct? Also, my pulse width numbers seem to be very erratic, and jump around alot. I'm not sure if that is normal or not as well as my duty cycle. The car hardly wants to start. When I blip the throttle it will fire right up and stay running as long as I have my throttle somewhat open. I would then adjust for less fuel and then it would start to run stupid lean and hunt around. I have to do this with the throttle open about 10% or else it will die. It almost seems that the intake just isn't getting enough air. I've heard of people deleting their idle valve with the stock ecu and the car fires right up like nothing is different. Also, the first datalog labeled "idle" is with all the idle valves on the car but not wired in as well as the egr (without a vacuum line to activate it, so basically it's just there). This just furthers my hunch on the intake not getting enough air to hold an idle. As for the firmware, I'm not really familiar with updating the firmware but I've read that it isn't all that necessary, especially if you've got the car running really well. (Which in my case, I dont)
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Hey guys, I'm having idle issues where I can't keep the car running and it never seems to want to catch. Either it runs too rich and dies or runs too lean and runs very badly. I have to keep steady pressure on the throttle to keep it from dying. Clearly that means that I need more air, so I would lower my VE values and it wouldn't seem to help any. The car ran better and would actually idle around 600rpm with all the idle valves on the plenum, but none of them were wired up. I've since took them all out, as well as the egr valve, and blocked all the holes off. I have my tune and a few datalogs. The datalog labeled IDLE(not idle1 or idle2) is when the car had the idle valves on the car but not wired up to anything. The others are without the idle valves. My injector PW seems very jumpy as well as the dead time. I have them grounded directly to the MS. They are low z injectors so I chose to limit the current in TunerStudios instead of using drop resistors. I made sure no ground wire or sensor wire was in contact with any noise issues(dizzy, spark plug wires, coil). I messed with the ASE and WUE to try and stabalize my afr's and keep the damn thing running, but I've had no luck with it so far. I have an MS2/Extra v3.57 Firmware 3.3.0 straight from DIY. CurrentTune1.zip idle.zip idle1.zip idle3.zip
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Shit yeah, same flow rate I'm looking at as well since I plan to be running E85 soon! I guess if I had done some digging and cross referencing, I could have found my answer just like you found it. I'll also double check with Injector Dynamics in the morning. Thanks!
