S30Stig

Bump. Cannon intake manifold is sold. A few other things I'll let go FOR FREE if anyone is in NJ and wants to pick them up: entire '72 OEM suspension including front and rear strut assemblies, front and rear lower control arms, front engine crossmember and original sway bar.

Bump. The cannon intake manifold is spoken for. Also available are front and rear strut assemblies and lower control arms as well as a front engine cross-member.Obviously a pain to ship so I'll take just about any offer for a local pickup.

Bump. Steering wheel is sold.

I have several things for sale I have removed from my Z over the years. Everything is located in New Jersey and mostly negotiable (I'm not up to date on most of these prices so here's what would make me happy). Weber 32/36 DGV carburetors with E88 manifolds, balance tube and linkage that should be complete. These could probably stand to be rebuilt but did run when I took them off ~2 months ago to install triples. $250 Unused Cannon triple Weber DCOE manifold with linkage and carburetor mounting/insulation kits: $250 sale pending Old Canon exhaust manifold. My research tells me it is a Canon manifold which haven't been produced in some time. Comes with a collector to a 2.5" exhaust: $150 Four Eagle Alloy wheels. My last measurement put them at 7.5" wide with 4x114.3 and 4x100 patterns. All of the tires pictured with these are 225/50R15. Two of the tires are badly scalloped although the other two are Toyo Proxes4 and in decent shape. The tires can be dismounted and discarded if desired, I don't expect anything for them. $200 240Z master brake cylinder. Came off my '72. No leaks or bleeding between seals when it was removed around May. I went with a 15/16th's cylinder for bigger brakes: $50 240Z distributor with a Pertronix electric ignition conversion box and 3 year old NGK plug wires. Upgraded to a 123 Ignition unit: $75 Finally, the pièce de résistance, one fabulous aftermarket 'Z' steering wheel. I don't know a thing about this other than it will bolt right in place of a factory steering wheel and use the original horn contacts. It was the first thing I took off my car so a $20 bill would thrill me: $20 SOLD

No kidding. If its still in NJ I hope to see it around.

If you decide to do adjustable suspension at any point I can vouch Techno Toy Tuning as rossman has said. Silver Mine Motors has a ton of brake options at a few different levels and price points like jhm said. Only thing I could think to add that hasn't been mentioned is Apex Engineered. They're still new but fantastic quality from my experience and if you ever want to do an engine swap their cross-member has swap-able engine mount points.

WTB a triple carb setup. Preferably something complete but willing to entertain partial sets of just carbs or just a manifold to put together something unique. I had ordered new OER carbs a week ago but RHD Japan decided to tell me after I placed my order and they approved it that the price had gone up a few hundred dollars so I'm searching for alternatives. Thank you.

It definitely wasn't easy to get a decent reading. With the engine fully dressed and in the bay I didn't have anywhere good to attach a dial indicator or have a magnetic base handy so we ended up making this jerry-rigged contraption to hold the indicator in a good position. It uses two bolts from the cam cover to hold itself down and worked well for something thrown together. Figured someone might get a good chuckle out of it here...

Tell that to the 123ignition distributor sitting next to me and the fuel fittings going out today! There's suddenly a lot going on at once for my Z. I was trying to measure directly from the cam which is probably why I was getting such strange numbers then. I imagine a proper valve adjustment would be key in measuring real lift since lash has an affect on that measurement as you mentioned. Also, and you'll have to excuse the ignorance of youth and lesser experience, but because I was originally only trying to find the lift and duration from on the cam I figured TDC was irrelevant to this case; only the starting and ending degrees of the measurement. I wasn't trying to degree the cam itself or change cam timing, just to get a better idea of what cam is in there since that was the original direction I was pointed to in picking a starting venturi set.

We'll have to hope so! I just bit the bullet on a set at 34mm. Hopefully the worst case scenario now would be having to change them out for the next size up or down.

Thank you jonbill. That makes good sense to me. In my use I wonder if I should go with a slightly smaller venturi. Using Frank Honsowetz's method and considering I don't really go over 6k on the street I came up with a 34mm venturi size: sqrt(458.79 * 6,000 / 1,000) * 0.65 = 34.103 Even though this would probably limit the 6-7k range, my cam definitely doesn't have any hidden power up there and if the slightly smaller size makes for easier tuning and or more driveability then that tradeoff could work. However if that 2mm reduction in size would affect things across the whole rpm range then it may be better to stick with 36mm.

I am in the process of picking out new carbs for my 240Z with a 'Stage I' Datsun Spirit motor. It's an L24 based 2.7L stroker that has been (in my opinion) burdened with the Weber DGV setup that came with my Z. At the time of setting up this motor I found myself unable to replace the carbs the car came with but I'm now in the position to do it right. After some back and forth I thought I would go with some Z-Therapy SU carbs since they should be plenty for the engine and I've heard nothing but great things about them. The problem is I don't really have 4-5 months to wait for a set. I also don't have experience with sidedrafts which would be my second preference. So after reaching out to a few people and dredging old forum posts I got in touch with Josel from "SidedraftSpecialties" in CA about getting a new set of 45mm OER carbs. He explained to me that the most critical choice in picking a set that will run well, particularly on a mild 2.7, is the choice of venturi size which would naturally be based on the size of the camshaft. So here's my problem: I don't know my cam specs. I've reached out to Datsun Spirit who even found my old measurement and spec sheet which was able to narrow things down to it being a "DSI274 non drilled cam". Unfortunately he didn't seem to have a cam card anywhere for this particular cam or recall the lift and duration. The cam itself has "Japan" and "E30" in raised letters along with an "A" stamp near the firewall so I'm assuming this may be a re-grind cam. After deciding to measure it myself I got (I think) inconclusive results. Using a dial indicator and measuring directly on the cam in the car I found an intake and exhaust lift of .317" but a duration of 195 degrees measuring from .050" of lift from of base circle back to .050" of lift. I could see the .317 lift because the engine is pretty mild but the 195 degree duration doesn't make sense when the original "A" cam specs I find say the original duration should be about 248 degrees. I tried measuring from .006" to .006" which gave me 289 degrees which seems a little long for a mild cam. I could assume that "DSI274" refers to a 274 degree advertised duration, not too far off from 289, but we all know what happens when you assume things. What am I doing wrong in this case? It's been a few years since I had to measure a cam but I feel like I'm missing something. Should I be measuring duration and lift from the moment the rocker arm moves from and back to .050"? Or does taking these measurements straight from the cam base circle suffice? Was the advertised duration of these L-series cams based on a standard before the .050" standard I remember being taught about? I appreciate any advice at this point because time is a factor for me but I'd rather do it right in the end. EDIT: I'll eat some of my own words before someone else makes me.... Just found this wonderful thread about cam timing with a degree wheel and dial indicator by BRAAP and others: Pretty much narrows my questions down to should my .050" measurement always be taken from the top of the valve retainer?

I'm not sure what it's worth but I'm interested. From what little I found on them at jdmjunkies it looks like they're from I would also like to find a finned Kakimoto or Kameari type valve cover eventually and this would go great with that and the OER's I'm about to order. Shoot me a PM if you want to just sell it and we'll see if we're close on value. As far as coilovers I'm not sure what you're looking for but if you need some original cores I have a complete original suspension with struts and control arms that I would be happy to trade for.

Techno Toy Tuning stopped taking orders for them because of lead times according to a phone-call I had with them a few months ago. So unless they've picked up the brand again, I think Circuit Dreamer is your best bet currently. They even carry some in stock (sometimes).

I noticed what looks to be that same white car for sale on craigslist in Whitestone, Queens in NY. I'd never heard of the "Primadonna" Z cars before and ironically my search led me here. If anyone is interested, here's the link to the current ad: https://newyork.craigslist.org/que/cto/5955165173.html It definitely looks like the same car in auxilary's pictures minus the fan coolers on the wheels.

Because there aren't enough options for you to choose from already, I run Joe Gibbs Driven conventional 10w-40 break-in or hot rod oil on recommendation from my engine builder. I have a Datsun Spirit 2.7L 'stage 1' motor and the car seems very happy with that syrup. It is $10-11 a quart off amazon and supposedly the 'hot rod' oil is the 'brake-in' oil with a different label for the same price.

I'm fortunate enough to have a garage for winter storage right now so salt and rain really never touch the car. It's the unexpected 10-15 minutes of standstill traffic that's all to common in NJ that has me concerned. I think I'll try to fab up a plate to go between the tank and pipes once I go ahead with the kit. Two different layers of air should be plenty of insulation even if I end up sitting in a little traffic.

Hello everyone! I'm doing a slow restoration on my 1972 240Z and I'm at the point of sorting out the exhaust. I believe we're going to go with the twice pipe setup for 3-2 headers from thezstore.com. This kit from what I understand recommends that you widen the opening in the rear fender to accommodate both pipes which is something I definitely don't want to do. My solution would be to modify the piping in the kit so that I have a center-exit exhaust which would go with the retro-racer look I'm after with my car. The only concern I have would be that there would be more heat in a much closer proximity to the stock fuel tank. So what would be the best insulation for the exhaust? I would assume header wrap would be plenty being that far down the exhaust system. Any input is greatly appreciated as I'm used to lifted trucks with miles of space between everything. Thanks in advance!