rytherwr

I'm with ya, Tim.

I'm too far gone for this option, although I appreciate the thought. I already have the vlsd diff installed, front mount made, custom driveshaft installed, Moser axles (waiting on...you guessed it! R230 inner cv joints)and companion flanges adapted. I believe I have found some re-manned. Pricey, but gotta go with the flow, I guess.

Many thanks, Mike. I've been all over the Web. I've got one of the sites but don't have the other. Sure appreciate your time. Wayne

Yes, Sirs. (as radar would say) I have an ad in the classified and look a couple of times a day. No joy. Tim and I have been pm-ing for about a month and we aren't having much luck. His first source doesn't have any and his fall-back source hasn't answered up yet. I appreciate the advice. Wayne

Mike, Not sure when I will get done. NOBODY'S PAYING ATTENTION TO MY PLEADINGS ABOUT 4 R230 INNER CV JOINTS! I started last July and wanted to finish it by June of this year, however, I am behind schedule as I am caught up with other things at work. Still hoping to see July or Aug though. Wayne

ZTard, Ask and ye shall receive. You don't have to clearance as much as this, but it was already in the CNC so went ahead with it. You can easily do well with a notch that is a little wider than the rod. The bolt or nut is what would hit if not clearanced. Pls don't forget about clearancing the top of the rod bolts that are toward the camshaft. They make funny noises when they hit. Wayne

See?? It CAN get on the ground before it grows wings! Couple of pics actually on the ground with the vette rear and quarters roughed in. Think it will come out ok. STILL can't talk anyone into selling me 4 R230 inner CV joints! I think this thing is going to be a pain to push around but will be good on gas, ya think? Wayne

All I have to say is "WOW"! Sure is a motivator to finish mine!! Superb!! Wayne

Many thanks for the research and info. I don't think many of us realized the R230 issue was this murky. Sure appreciate the help. Wayne

RacerX Look under Pics for DCarrow. A little more complete. working on the blending as we speak. Wayne

Thanks, folks. I appreciate. More so seeing as it is a work in progress and has a long way to go. Must be on the right track. The G-Nose came in two pieces upper and lower. I am working on engineering a solution to attach the hood, upper and lower G-Nose together and have them as one piece so they all move together when I open the hood. I believe it will work. Hey, nullbound, some pretty darn cool people choose those wheels, eh? 8) The reason it is still in the air is I am working on my last piece of the puzzle to put my axles in. Can't seem to locate 4 R230 6-bolt cv joints. That's all I am lacking. Any information as to where I can get 4 of them would be GREATLY appreciated. THEN I can put it on the ground Wayne

Couple of pics to show the G-nose on the other end of the 82 vette rear to answer DCarrow's request. Wayne

Tim, The vent is in the cap...little round button next to the twist thingy. No problems so far. If it becomes a problem, I will re-install 280z stock system and vent through it. Rufus, Main hoop is an Alston and fabbed the rest. Will post some pics when I get home and find them. To keep things straight and stay of the moderator's S---list, I will post under body, kits and paint forum:? Wayne

I use the same one as Tim. Sending unit is 0-90 ohm. I mounted mine up through the cargo area and centered it because I wanted to run symetrical dual exhaust and I didn't want the sump to hang below the valance. I will make a cover to go over the cell with an access door for refueling to keep everything out of the passenger compartment. Pics here. You can see the fi return line, fuel door and the sending unit all on top.

I can only see two of the pictures but don't need to see more. I just got done doing similar work and my hat's off to you! Misery loves company and now I don't feel so bad. Great job!!!

First things first......for the doubters and/naysayers pls read the motto at the bottom. Spent 35 years as a U.S. Marine and I KNOW the answer to the question.......NOBODY!!!!! Having said that, I am DEFINITELY not a naysayer (couldn't fly until we flew, right?) ..however I AM a realist and my pea-brain/experience have shown me that without a plan to get to the end state, ya ain't gonna make it. Given the variables I saw in your first post, my recommendation is to spend every waking moment you can possibly spend hugging up to the folks who do speed (not drugs....., MPH ) for a living and educating yourself on the considerations that must be dealt with in order to safely go fast. That means all types of competition, because there is a cross-pollination that happens which is extremely useful. The logical place to begin is the august pages of this superb site! I am an old fart and I have learned and IMMENSE amount of stuff in just the year I have been a member. There is a common thread to be gleaned from reading through the posts and that is that projects are never, never, ever what they start out as nor are they what they seem in the beginning! In a nutshell "STUFF HAPPENS" and 3/4 of the battle is acknowledging that fact and dealing with it. So start right here, read and heed. You will be able to pick out very quickly who is BSing and who the players are. Why do you think you see most of the same names as moderators on most of the Forums? Most importantly, DON'T EVER GIVE UP!!!! That doesn't mean be stupid, it means you need to be adaptable and flexible in your plans and your goals, possibly to the point of gradually working your way up to the end-state as opposed to the 'big bang theory' trying to do it all at once. However, if you are serious, your desired 240 MPH is the goal and everything else you do should be logically designed to get you there. If you follow that rabbit, you will surely have learned a huge amount of useful information and applicable methodologies by the time you get there or decide the cost in headaches, money, time and effort is too much. Bottom Line? GO FOR IT!!! Use your head, acquire the knowledge, gain the experience and beat butt!!!

Tim, Thanks for the kind words. I see you've had some experience with Showcars. I can't say anything good about them and thought I would give warning. H-m-m-m-m..........if I could just find some R230 inner cv joints ) Wayne

Thanks for the kudo's, folks. Long way to go yet. Considered the gas filler option and decided not to clutter up the rear. Not sure what I am going to do with the empty space yet. Maybe nothing. Yes, going to go from the rear of the wheel opening to the apex of the outside corner of the bumper and blend in. Just came in from permanently afixing the left rear quarter and will get a full side shot tomorrow of the entire g-nose will show also. Still ugly as all get-out, but you will be able to see how the pieces fit together. Obviously got some filling to do, but not bad. Got all the fiberglass from Canada at a place called Showcars-Bodyparts. Here is the info: http://Http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html . e-mail is Showcars@idirect.com and phone is (905) 857-6345. Now, having given the info, I must tell you that they are a bear to deal with. I had to keep on them about every week to get my stuff to me. For instance, I ordered two front fenders, G-nose and cowl induction hood around 7 Dec 03 and didn't get them until April 04! Not good Deal with those folks at your own risk. The reason I dealt with them was because I couldn't seem to find the bulged fenders I needed to give me the look I wanted for the 10.5 in wide rear tires. Later

Hey, glad it piques some interest. Ikone, it is 1 5/8 in wider on each side than a 78 280z at its widest point. Datsunboy77, it is a reproduction piece out of an Ecklers 2004 spring/summer catalog, no. 204. They have most any vette fiberglass piece part you could want as well as a lot of other stuff too. I chose the 82 over the older models because of the built in spoiler. For the wide-body kit, a more boxy look might be a better fit such as a gen IV or V. For sure, it brings a different look to the rear and is not too difficult to manage. Go for it!

I thought the same thing about a later rear at first, but the later model turned out to be too boxy and doesn't lend itself to the contours of the rear quarters. As you can see, the fiberglass Z rear quarters can be conformed to the outside contours of the vette rear. The pictures you see with the exhaust holes in the valance show the rear as it is attached on sides, top and bottom. Never seen one before so thought I'd try it. Now that you mention it tannji, you're right. At first glance, it looks like the Maverick. When you see the whole car with the G-nose front and cowl induction hood, it brings a different perspective. Wayne

Work in progress

Many thanks, Neil. That may be exactly what I have to do but I want to pursue all the options before I go there. I appreciate. Wayne

Tim is working on some R230 cv joints for me. Thanks to all the smart folks out there, I think I have come to the conclusion that I have an R200 VLSD that LOOKS like an R230 and MOUNTS like an R230. I like the idea of the 4:08's with a 700R4 so I am going to try an adaptor between the 5-bolt R200 output flanges and the 6-bolt R230 CV ends before I actually give up and getting an actual R230. The reason I am kinda stuck is because I already have the Moser axles that will fit the 6-bolt cv ends. Already have a mock-up of the adaptor. Does anyone know if the bolt circles on the 5-bolt and 6-bolt pattern are the same diameter? If they are, then there will be one common hole that a bolt will go all the way through. The adaptor will be 1/2" thick and I will thread bolt holes for the non-common holes. 5-bolt will go in from one side and the 6-bolt will go in from the other side. If the bolt patterns are not the same diameter, then back to the drawing board. What fun we have, eh? Wayne

Many thanks for the input, folks. Surprising I haven't seen this before. Probably not looking in the right place. Good to have it out in the open. I agree with Z-Tard....can make this work as well as anything else us zingy folks like to try and the R200V is certainly more plentiful, at least in the Southeast. I believe I will take Tim's advice and try an adaptor between the R200V 5 bolt output flanges and the inner R230 6 bolt outer housing flanges. I have a couple of ideas, some ducats and a good machinist who is a masochist. Any ideas or if you have done this before, please post. When I get to an end-state, I will post the results so it may help another poor soul keep their sanity. Regards, Wayne

WOW! Looks like I opened a can of worms on this one! To all....many thanks for the knowledge, I think I understand. Would love to take Tim240Z up on the offer but I live in GA and not sure it is worth the freight yet. If I can't find anything closer, may have to re-visit. Brings up another question: I haven't seen Ross C's complete system assembled and am wondering if I would have room for a 3/8ths adapter plate between the 5 bolt output flange and the 6 bolt CV end? Anybody know? Sure do appreciate. FYI, I have a '78 280Z, 383 chevy(10:1 cr, al 195cc heads, 1 3/4 block huggers, etc), after market FI system, 700r4, full cage, fiberglass front end with cowl-induction hood, fiberglass rear quarters to cover the 10.5 inch Mickey Thompson's, 16 Gal fuel cell, '65 Vette under-car 2.5" chambered exhaust (sounds BAD), '82 vette rear facia/bumper, Denny's aluminum driveshaft w/1310 joints and I THOUGHT an R-230 adapted to the 280Z companion flanges until you guys set me straight. Oh well, there's always a way. Again, many thanks.