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zeeboost

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Posts posted by zeeboost

    350z Salvage

    in Body Kits & Paint

    Posted

    I came across this exact same type of deal a few months ago - damage looks almost identical except mine had a dent in the roof area as well. IIRC, my estimate was around $3k-4k in parts, but that included getting all replacement parts from the junkyard (including dash and steering wheel from airbags) and doing the work myself. With other hidden / misc costs, I decided to pass. It was an '07 and he was asking around $5500 with salvage title.

    Blow out your fans...

    in Non Tech Board

    Posted

    Thanks for posting this - it motivated me to tear apart the laptop and clean it today. I've owned it for roughly 1.5 years now and have watched the temps keep creeping higher and higher. This morning, GPU temps were 105*C and core temp was around 93*C. As of right now, GPU and core are both 57* C :) Just like a Z after a tuneup, she runs sooo much better now.

    LSx s30 Longtube group buy thread

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    Ok, so ask yourself this :

     

    Is 6 horsepower and 3 ft lbs of torque worth $350? In my opinion, that's money better spent elsewhere. You did also state that he changed his Y pipe, which could more than accommodate for the increased hp/tq numbers.

     

    my .02

     

    True, but I hardly think the Y-pipe alone can be responsible for that much of an increase. I agree completely the cost vs marginal gains argument...however that was also for a stock engine with no modifications. Even something simple such as a head / cam swap should yield better results. I was also inquiring if the 1 7/8" could be had at a cheaper cost if the group buy was switched to those primaries instead (I'm guessing the price was $350 there due to it being an option, instead of the standard production), because like you said an extra $350 is a little hard to swallow for the primary increase.

     

     

    I could not have put it any better myself. I'm ok with 1 3/4 or 1 7/8 if everyone decides to go that route. I have 1 3/4 on my LS7 Z06 and can't complain at all, I can get to my plugs without any issues and don't have clearance problems. My friend choose the 1 7/8 on the same car and his headers hit the underside of the car sometimes when idling due to clearance issues. Pretty anoying when he spent $1600 on a set of longtubes. Like the article says the horsepower numbers are identical untill over 4800 rpm and honestly for how long do most cars stay over 4800 rpm unless its a drag car. I think a lot of people get sucked into numbers and loose touch of fuctionality on the street.

     

    Anyways I'm in either way, just wanted to share my opinion.

     

    Most people opt for the proper long tube headers to maximize power under WOT, and I would assume that in WOT situations most people shift after 4800rpms. People in this group buy want to purchase these in the interests of more power. Shorties are already available for our cars - if horsepower and optimized WOT performance isn't a priority to them, I'd imagine most people would just stick with what's already on the market and much cheaper than longtubes. Driveability is another factor - unfortunately I could not find any hard, concrete data (again, because the main interest is for WOT application).

     

    read numerous lsx related posts from various websites [which a google search provided] this weekend discussing the 1 ¾ vs. 1 ⅞ primary tube battle. old discussion, repeatedly hashed back and forth-there is a ton of information out there and not all of it fact based.

     

    in a perfect z world, we would test both size headers with identical exhaust on the same car. then on various engine configurations [greater displacement, heads, cam, turbo & supercharged]. unfortunately budget prevents us from doing this-hence the draw to a group buy!

     

    spoke with the builder again this morning and asked him specifically about [the majority of us on the] thread and what he felt [in his experience] would provide the best ‘fit’-with room to ‘grow’ [think upgrades like; throttle body, intake, heads, cam, etc.]. he responded saying 1 ¾. he then told me about an lsx vette they built which is a drag car that consistently runs 10’s, ~800 rwhp supercharged and runs 1 ¾’s with a dual 3†exhaust and that if the owner thought he could go faster would have gone to the 1 ⅞’s.

     

    i then asked if, for my engine [2001 ls1, no; ac, cats or ps], ported throttle body and a mild street tune-330 rwhp, 360 rwtq, would i be restricted with 1 ¾ if i were to later upgrade with; cam/tb/intake? he said no. good enough for me.

     

    like i stated initially, if we had fat budget then extensive testing could be performed and we could then determine best application for our lsx z’s.

     

    of course, if that was the case [$$$$] then we would all have our own built to perfectly meet our specific z’s!

     

     

    Reading those debates can get exhausting, huh? ;)

     

    I understand that we only have limited data to work with on the lsx builds (SBCs are a different story). And I would agree that 1 3/4" headers wouldn't cause a restriction...but the flow may not be optimized, and there could be more power on tap to take advantage of that. The only data I found supports that. I have no doubt that they have a drag vette with 800rwhp running the smaller primaries. My question is how much more could it have with the larger primaries? I don't expect them to do any testing with it, but it seems pretty likely that with a supercharged lsx, more power could be on tap using 1 7/8". I would've rather heard that the owner "didn't" make any more power with 1 7/8" headers instead of the owner didn't "think" he could make any more power. I've read on the lsx forums that the vette owners are pretty loyal to the 1 3/4" headers and typically defend them under any circumstance. No clue on the reasoning as I have not searched the corvette forums to confirm this. The lsx forums seemed unbiased enough to gather information from there.

     

    If most of you are satisfied with the 1 3/4" headers, that's fine. My argument was that since the point of these headers are to maximize power output, since these guys can clearly weld up a 1 7/8" set, and since the only data I've found points to 1 7/8" primaries yielding better results, that if the cost could be equal or at least really close to the 1 3/4" headers then it would be in the best interest of the group buy.

    LSx s30 Longtube group buy thread

    in Gen III & IV Chevy V8Z Tech Board

    Posted

    nullbd, will get you added shortly [need the admins to do it].

     

    spoke with builder today regarding primary sizing. here are his thoughts based on 7 years of building, tuning and personal preference.

     

    rwhp under mid 400's, cubic inches under 402, supercharged or turbo'd, 1 3/4 ok.

     

    over the above he'd suggest 1 7/8, and good for low 900's to the rear wheels.

     

    any larger then you lose torque.

     

    cost for the 1 7/8 around $350 additional, if anyone is interested.

     

    Ouch...that's a pretty penny for an extra 1/8" diameter. What if everyone agreed on 1 7/8" instead...would they still cost an extra $350 or would they just cost the original $825.

     

    Reason being, I've read several 1 3/4" vs 1 7/8" debates on the lsx forums. The general consensus is that given a choice between the two, the 7/8" will always be a better choice b/c you don't lose any power and will support current or future mods better than the 3/4. The only dyno graph I could find was where someone changed out his 3/4" for 7/8" and changed his Y-pipe out. It's attached at the bottom, and blue curve is obviously the new setup with the 1 7/8" headers.

     

    ALSO, a speed shop took a stock ls1 (with a FAST intake) that did their own dyno comparison between the two header sizes and found that the 1 7/8" was either equal in power or made more than the 1 5/8" in all RPM ranges. Here's what was said:

     

    "The very first dyno testing we did compared header primaries & power output from 3000 to 6000rpm. The base engine was completely stock 01 engine with only a Fast intake installed. We dyno tested both the Pacesetter 1 3/4" coated long tubes & the TSP 1 7/8" long tube headers. The goal was to see how the larger primaries would effect power on a basically stock engine. To my suprise the 1 7/8" headers made a considerable amount more power than the 1 3/4" headers! Power output was virtually identical untiL 4800 rpm when the 1 7/8" headers began to outpower the smaller 1 3/4" primaries. The 1 7/8" headers made a peak hp of 414.x hp & 421lb ft while the 1 3/4" headers made 408hp & 419 lb ft of torque. While this isn't a huge difference, it definately shows that even on a basically stock car the larger headers are still a good investment! Power under the 4800rpm point was virtually identical! Infact the 3000 rpm numbers were 209hp 366 tq from the 1 3/4" headers & 209hp 359.9 tq!

     

    Both dyno runs were backed up several times & the combos used very similar air fuels & locked in timing at 28 degrees. I thought this was a pretty cool comparision, because the common thought is the 1 7/8" headers is just overkill on anything smaller than stroker setups. This is apparently not the case...."

     

     

     

    The point I'm getting at is I think it would benefit the HBZ community more to make the run for 1 7/8" headers rather than the 1 3/4". I'm not trying to step on anyone's toes, and I do appreciate that people are taking initiative here to get these done (much better than custom, which is what I was planning on), but if the price would be closer to the 1 3/4" then I think more people would opt for the 7/8".

    post-530-004364000 1301139663_thumb.jpg

    My fuel pump works but doesn't

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    Yes, I've been bench testing the pump with a clear liter bottle of fluid, so I can see everything that's going on. The only way I can get it to move fluid normally is by removing the casing off the pump and spinning the shaft with my power drill. If I hook up the electric motor straight to the battery it just spins but doesn't suck anything in, but does slightly when the polarity is reversed.

    My fuel pump works but doesn't

    in Fuel Delivery

    Posted

    Cliffnotes - I can spin the shaft of the fuel pump with my power drill and it works fine. I hook it up to a battery, motor kicks like it's got plenty of juice and sounds healthy, but doesn't suck in any fuel.

     

     

    More detailed version:

     

    Okay, in my '83 280zxt that got left out in a field, the gas cap was also off, so I've been trying to clean out all the sediments that accumulated in there. I read that the inlet to the fuel pump has a little screen in it that can get clogged up, so I took the four screws off the cap to check it out and make sure everything is clean. When I put it back together, I haven't been able to get the pump to work at all (worked fine before removal). I'll spare you the details of all the testing that I've done, but here's where I'm at now:

     

    I took the outer casing off and hooked the shaft of the motor to my power drill. The top portion was assembled together, just the casing was off. I put a hose on the pump inlet, stuck it in a bottle of water, spun the drill watched it suck the water in just like it was designed to. So I put the casing back on, wired the motor up to the battery (still with the hose in the water) and I got nothing but air bubbles. When I had tried this before, I never saw air bubbles or any other type of movement - this just started happening after I spun it with the drill. So then I reversed the polarity (makes sense, because it looks like it's pushing air, right?) and though the motor made a terrible noise, it sucked water in. The motor would keep dying on me if I left it connected for longer than a couple of seconds with the polarity reversed. After a few seconds it reached the point where it wouldn't suck in any more water. By the way, when I hooked up the pump normally, it would kick to the left, so I'm guessing it spins counter clockwise. I'm pretty sure I was spinning the drill clockwise when I got it to work.

     

    This whole time nothing came out of the outlet. So I removed the outlet, wired the pump normally and I had a little bit of water dribbling out, but nothing was being sucked from the bottle. I decided to reverse the polarity again to see what would happen, but this time it sparked pretty bad so I didn't bother with hooking it up backwards again. When examining the outlet, it looks like there's a little check valve in there because I can't see through it. If I blow through it the same direction that the gasoline would flow, no air comes out, so I'm guessing that pressure is required to move the valve up to allow passage for the fuel. If I used a pin to hold the valve up, I can blow through it. Again, this is all assuming there's supposed to be a check valve in there, I really couldn't see what it was, but that's how it acted.

     

     

    I'm on day 2 of messing with this stupid pump and I'm getting nowhere. Can't find any reliable pumps around the area, and don't want to buy some crap from autozone. Plus, I this pump looks and acts like it should work fine, so it's really frustrating me that I can't get it to. If anyone could tell me WHAT THE CRAP IS GOING ON!!!! I would be ever so thankful.

    240Z in Photoshoot

    in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z

    Posted

    There's a pretty big difference between "models" and successful models.

     

    That being said I don't mind looking at girls anyways :D

     

    Agreed

     

    And of course I'll admire beauty when I see it, but something that could pass for a man with implants doesn't tickle my fancy.

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