zeeboost
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Posts posted by zeeboost
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Yeah, I was a bit annoyed when I read the first post. I'm really surprised this hasn't made it to the shed yet.
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It's been a while since I was messing with it, but I have at least a 6 point cage set up for it...may go more, not sure yet. But, I'm not planning on any door bars. I'm 6'5" and enjoy the roominess of the s30 too much to take it for granted. Besides, I know of at least one track around here where I could get away without one (or at least much of one)
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dsommer - I installed the t56 to my sbc 280zx back before the Weir kit was available. Centerforce has a flywheel made just for this swap (though it was a bit pricey at the time at $400ish, and a heavy little booger at 36#, IIRC). AFAIK, that was the only way to do it at the time. (without tons of $$$ in custom machining) But other than the flywheel, I was able to run any T56 pull-type clutch with the factory t56 bellhousing. For the hydraulics, just a good ol' tilton 7/8" master with a generic t5 slave, with the factory roll-pin fitting clipped off, tapped, and threaded for the hydraulic line.
As for the original poster, I don't blame you for not searching the forums, because there's no way in hell you'd find what you're looking for. Out of the 10 or so years this site has been up, we've learned to generally try and avoid discussions of v8 drivetrain swaps in our little babies. This community feels that they were born a Datsun, and should keep the heart of one. I'm the exception though, which isn't surprising...I'm used to being the black sheep. So, I'll cut to the crap and give you what you're looking for. Now, it's not as common of a tranny swap as say a T5 or T56, but it's also not one to be dismissed either. I'm not sure if you've heard of the T2180, but I'm surprised no one else has jumped all over this. It features a generous gear ratio which will be sure to utilize all 280 of your horsies, from screaming stand-still burnout torque in first gear to the perfect cruising gear on the highway. Its durability stands out among the rest. Trust me, if you're ever ready to take the plunge and install a performance CAI/Exhaust, it'll be able to hold up to your new 560hp of blazing fury. Now, the transmission may require a little more massaging of the transmission tunnel than the others, and it may help if you source a bellhousing and maybe some other misc. pieces for the conversion, but it's more than worth it. Hands down, it's a set-it and forget-it transmission. Enough talk already:
Do it. Take the plunge and see if you can show all the other purists on here what a man's drivetrain looks like.
Oh, and sweetride2go - I think the 3.9 goes perfectly with the t56. At highway cruising speeds I'm around 2000-2200rpms. Can't recall what the mph was, seeing as how it's been in the bodyshop for 3 friggin years, but I'll assume that it's 70-75ish.
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I haven't been making steady-enough progress on the car to deem it worthy of its own thread (though I'm aware others have years behind their belt). However, I'm considering starting one once I get the ball rolling with the project. Yes, I'm planning on taking this car to the strip. It won't be a strip only car, but I would like to see how low in the 9s I can get. The car will have a cage...not a full one so that I can still comfortably get in the car, but enough of one that I'll feel I've secured its structural integrity.
Anyways, I'm hoping either BRAAP and/or the doc will chime in here. Instead of studying last night, I searched the internet for these problems and ways to prevent them. I really didn't find any info on how to prevent the main bearing wear, but just several people saying that it happens with superchargers. Surely it isn't that inevitable...there must be some way to help minimize the wear.
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I will be having traction problems either way. First I was wanting to achieve 700-800hp with the maggie and a small shot of nitrous. The ungodly amounts of immediate, low-end torque will be fun at first, but no traction gets old pretty quick. So, I'd prefer to run the centrifugal because it's a more gradual power curve. I'm sure I'll still have wheel spin, but it won't be near the extent of a maggie. Plus the maggie couldn't provide top end pull, which is great about the centrifugals. That, and procharged cars almost always run better times at the track than the maggies. The roots blowers are fun and they have their place, but I've decided it's not what I'm going after right now. With the F1C I should be able to hit 800rwhp pretty easily, and still have more room to grow. There are smaller prochargers achieving the same numbers, but they have to work harder to get there. With the F1 it should be a breeze. From searching ls1tech, the people with cog drives and more aggressive belt setups are the ones who are damaging the crank. I was looking at a SDCE tensioner setup - it's a proven setup that doesn't seem to put much stress on the crank.
Yup, those pulleys need to be perfectly aligned to operate without issue...but I'm not worried about that part yet. While the engine is still on the stand, I'd like to make whatever necessary extra preparations I can - hence the reason for this post
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You're jealous of my Z addiction curse? Man, what I wouldn't give to be down to 3 right now
(Two will be for sale soon enough, though) -
I've decided to take my widebody project a different direction. I've been planning on installing a magnacharger mp122 on top of a forged 370 I have waiting to be dropped in, mated with a built t56. However, after much consideration, I've decided that it would be waay too much low end torque for any traction below 4th gear, so I sold the blower a couple of weeks ago. I'm now in the pursuit of a F1 procharger (most likely F1-C). After reading through ls1tech archives on procharger-associated failures, (I use procharger as a general reference term for any centrifugal supercharger), I noticed one thing a lot of people were having issues with premature front bearing wear and snapping the crank snout. But then others would run their setup without a hiccup for tens of thousands of miles. Is it just because some people adjust the belt too tightly? What are the biggest / most common reasons for these failures?
I know that everyone says to pin the crank, but that can't be the only fix...and I'm sure that doesn't prevent front bearing wear either.
While I have the engine still on a stand, what other precautions can be taken to prevent excessive wear from a centrifugal? I know the old school guys put a BBC snout on, but I haven't read any lsx guys doing that (maybe they have a better cast crank?). That reminds me, I'm using the factory crank, which I've been told should support my power goals.
Anyways, main questions:
What are the biggest / most common reasons for the crank bearing / snout failures?
What other precautions can be taken to prevent excessive front bearing wear from a centrifugal? (About all the engine catastrophes related to roots blowers came from the SBC guys, and their fix would be the BBC snout. I didn't really find any internal LSX failures derived from root blower stress, so I'm assuming centrifugals put more of a load on the crank...or maybe it's just the constant side load.)
AS A SIDE NOTE! I know I've been talking about this project for a few years, and I've slowly been working on it, but my goal by the end of this summer is to take care of the bodywork/paint and have her driveable. So, after finals are over this week, I'll be getting started pronto. This will be the summer of Zs. I also gave my '77 to my brother since he's turning 16 at the end of the month, so I'll need to finish assembling that one as well. Gonna be a busy one!
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Awesome man! My sbc 280zx is jealous. Pics are good, but videos are 10x better
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This settles it - I'm removing the exhaust wrap from my turbo manny. I purchased this manifold from another user on here, and it came with exhaust wrap already on it, so I figured why not. The first couple of months or so of driving with the new turbo setup, I ran the exhaust open turbo (well, it had like a 3 inch long pipe, but still...), so obviously my ringing ears wouldn't notice any small exhaust leaks. But, once I connected the exhaust up, it was more than prominent. After another month I couldn't take it any more and decided to hunt down the leaks. I noticed #6 runner was leaking pretty badly, along with the turbo flange. So I pulled everything and found that almost every runner was warped (didn't even need a straight edge to tell) along with my turbo flange. Even on the gasket you could see soot where exhaust gasses had been blowing by. I'm running a T4 turbo, and I purchased the T4 adapter plate from Boost Logic, a well-known high performance shop in Austin. It's a high-quality adapter ran on high hp supras and whatever else they have come through the shop, so I'm pretty convinced it didn't warp due to inferior material. I've never seen a manifold warped this bad. My previous manifold was on for at least a good 6 years without any leak issues. SO, I'm pretty convinced this was caused from the exhaust wrap. I know there have been a few on this board that say they've been running the wrap without any issues, but I don't know what else it would be...and the wrap makes perfect sense if it's trapping too much heat. So I've had the exhaust runners and flange milled down, bought new gaskets, and will be installing this without the wrap. Guess I'll see how it goes.
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Yay double post!
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I vote for something along the lines of a turbo/super turbo muffler. I've always liked their exhaust note, but to each their own. As for your situation, I feel the same way about my '76 280z:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=csS76v9IUbY
The exhaust setup is headers 3-2-1 headers with 2.5 exhaust to a universal bullet muffler. I'm pretty convinced the muffler is the culprit to the "riceyness" of the exhaust tone (video exaggerates the riceyness a bit, but you get the idea). I put tripple webers on this one, and at WOT and higher rpms, the exhaust almost starts mimic an old-school exotic 6. So, I've left it alone for now - but in conclusion, I figured if I want to make it sound better, I can either crank up the compression and add a larger cam with ported headwork, or just buy a different muffler
As mentioned earlier, my vote is for turbo style muffler. I've always wondered how a spintech would sound on a Z, though. You can be the guinea pig. -
6'5", 190 lbs. and I LOVE the legroom in the s30. I, too, have tried to drive an s2000. I'm lucky I didn't crash the damn thing. I've test driven several different sports cars, and honestly the closest modern one that I felt comfy in was the 350z/g35 coupe. Most of the others I was either too cramped, or it just wasn't comfortable. I wouldn't think twice about buying one of these due to space constraints.
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Though I still don't think I'd like it, he's gotta at least have wheels on it to fill the flairs out.
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Wow, roadtrip with a 5th wheel anyone? Awesome find man.
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I thought it was mentioned earlier in this thread that Speeder has one on his car. It looks like it, anyways. I'm surprised you guys aren't using that for a side profile reference.
Taken from his sig:
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Registered being the key word here. Good luck with that. How'd you get the last name, anyways? Did he take a picture of his truck's rear window?
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Perfect launch control! Haha, this is hilarious.
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Wow, that's a hell of a way to revive a thread. Yeah, what happened?
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Let's see here...
My '72 240zt:
Unfortunately, the lastest pic of my '75 widebody with the tail lights still intact (probably 2 years old):
The most current picture I have is:
My '76 280z
...before the spoiler and wheels were added:
My '82 v8 280zx
As far as the other two, I'm hoping to finish the '77 2+2 for my brother by this summer, and I don't have any recent pics of the '83; only before it went in for paint.
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Yeah, p-factor, I think we may have been doing it wrong. If you notice post #40 in this thread, 280zcar successfully edited his, but when I tried to edit my first post, it just added another one. Maybe PM him for advice, haha.
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*edit* Looks like I get to find a new avatar
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I think this may have been mentioned earlier in the thread, and I don't know if it's a work in progress, or something I need to adjust with my settings, but my subscribed threads (which are now watched threads) only sort by relevance of when I last posted in them, not when the last thread update was. Is there any way to change this back to how it was with the old forum?
Other than that, I think this will be a great substitute for the old one.
F1 returns to the US
in Non Tech Board
Posted · Edited by zeeboost
It's our turn now.