menzzer37

I'm looking for a oil cooler plate. I don't need the lines or the cooler itself, but if anyone has one to spare, shoot me a PM and a price. Thanks

I downoaded ride runner, but where did you get that skin? Mine looks nothing like that.

Could it be an alternator issue where it only kicks on when the alternator starts putting out juice? The alternator is new and worked great before I pulled the motor.

No the lights stay on after they come on. The speedo works but it's mechanical. All other gauges are dead. I still havent got the tach to work with edis yet. But I do not have oil pressure or temp and they are hooked up correctly!

Hi guys. I'm having a stange electrical issue in my 76 (wiring harness from a 77) 280z. I just finished an engine rebuild, turbo, megasquirt, and edis install. None of my dash lights work until I rev the engine up to around 4000 RPM. At this point, the brake light and the charging indicator come on. This is a strange issue and any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks Also, I am not getting any brake lights, turn signal, headlight at anytime either.

I agree. The "hud" phrasing had me confused too. I don't even think that's slang, but most of the words are spelled incorrectly.

I'll second the find! I tried everything to get my Z running. I flipped the coil order from ABC to CBA and it fired right up! The order is definately reversed on some packs. I read through the v3 thread, but must have missed it in the convolution.

I wanted to help clarify on the color heat/absorption comments. Emissivity is the benefit of shiny coatings. Flat or shiny a color does not affect heat transmission, only the ceramic. The color aids in reflecting and associated absorption. A color does not make it radiate more, only absorb more.

IT LIVES! Thank you guys for all your help. Turns out, my ignition fires CAB not ACB like megamanual says. A member sent me a pm and told me to try flipping the coil and it worked! She loud, smelly, and beautiful. Thanks again

Thanks for your help guys. I have posted in the msq forum, but nobody has really taken any interest. I rebuilt the motor so the head has been off, but I'm pretty sure the timing is right. A timing light won't work with edis as it will flash on top and bottom since it's wasted spark. At least that's what megamanual says. I dont have a timing light and havent bought one since I read that (maybe that's wrong, I could be mistaken). My damper has slipped, so I'm not sure the timing mark is accurate. I'm going to go through my injector wiring today and see if I can troubleshoot.

it wont start, so I cannot run it... I have tried a couple of maps off here from cygnus and others, but the engine won't catch. I can get it to gurgle and backfire consistently now but it will not catch and idle. I bought the injectors over a year ago and I can't honestly remember what size they are. I've tripple checked the timing, rewired everything, tried iridium plugs and copper, and played with req fuel for hours.

I'm to the point of paying someone to come look at it. I'm in Warsaw, IN. It's about 2 hours from Indy and Chicago. Anyone close?

bump

Yeah it's a fresh build, but the VE could be off. I have one that I've gotten off here. Here are the engine specs: 300zx turbo injectors (280cc i think?) t3/t4 intercooled EDIS 240sx TB GM sensors I've attached my .MSQ Also, I'm running 97ish KPa while cranking. Is that normal? 280z august.rar

So I've been trying to get my megasquirt setup running and I think impropper cam alignment may be the issue. I keep getting inconsistent backfires. Here's how I timed it: crank key up #1 TDC Cam pin up (old chain) gear on #2 pin hole Line up bright links on dot of crank sproket and #2 dot on Cam sproket. When I crank it over with a breaker bar and my finger over the #1 plug hole, it stops compressing a little before the cam key is straight up. Does that mean the timing is off? Does that mean the valves open just before TDC? Also, the timing mark on the damper is a little to the right of the 0 on the timing marker. Could this be a chain stretch problem? Any help would be great. Thanks!

Ok, so I've got spark, my timing is right and the RPM signal is strong. It tried to catch yesterday but didn't. Now I've got nothing. Any thoughts?

Rose Hulman. #1 for 10 years straight now. Boundaries would be the walls of the TB; ie any edges. If you've ever watched a fluids demo, like a pipe, super smooth edges catch and drag the fluid where slight roughness will allow more laminar flow. The same is true when porting/polishing a head. On the intake side, you want to clean it up, but not to go wild with 1000 grit. Here's a simpler model: I have a Les Paul Ultra where the back of the neck is satin compared to gloss. This allows you to fret fast as smoother surfaces tend to catch and drag. Either way, your TB looks nice and I'm not trying to put you down or anything.

Just putting engineering degree to work.. polished aluminum does have a lower emissivity; however, perfectly polished and smooth surfaces have a higher friction coefficient at boundaries than slighly rough surfaces. It creates turbulence. Not trying to be critical but maybe help with accuracy. It does look great though!

Timing looks good. Moby any suggestions? I have a steady backfire. When I crank, I will get periods of fast spin, like trying to start or I will get a quiet backfire grumble from the exhaust. Plugs are lightly wet, but that could be from playing with the timing.

I've tuned my mixture both ways, but i believe it's a spark issue or possibly another megasquirt fault. I have EDIS, so I thought you didnt have to time that? Either way, I'd like to build a new MSQ file and start from scratch. Here are the specs so that we can begin laying it out. If anyone can give me any advice, I'd be thankful... EDIS-6 300zx low Z injectors (280cc ish) New billet big bore fuel rail ported 240sx tb and tps JAW wideband and bosch walbro 255 external running a sump fuel cell t3/t4 hybrid on stock turbo manifold. stock cam turbo rods/pistons megasquirt 1 extra

well I have fuel, but I'm not timed right... I have a backfire, and a consistent one. I tried adjusting the timing, but with no luck. Any ideas?

That's beautiful! That's the color I want to shoot my Z.

I think I may have discovered the problem: my flood clear value in cranking settings was 0... My normal TPS position closed is at 6, so... Maybe we have a solution? I have yet to check.

Here is my datalog. I see that there is alternating pulse width of 5.8 ocassionally that I cannot explain. Thanks datalog200907281910.zip

I'll put that up tonight after work. Thanks for helping, I'm at a loss. I have a friend who's consulting for B&G and he can't seem to debug the issue over the phone, so maybe you can figure it out. Thanks again