Ken Smith

I didn't know that. R12 I believe is hard to find as I live in California and I think it's probably illegal here. Or very expensive at best. Any ideas on a pressure switch that will work with original type drier? If I can get R12 for a fair price I understand it actually is better than R134. If that's the case I will stick with the R12.

I originally went on 4 seasons website and they didn't show that unit. I'll try and order the one in Canada. Thanks........

Thanks, I'll start looking for one with the 1/4" NPT female port. I really want to keep it original looking. I have the original Receiver/drier and wonder if it can be checked to see if it is still good. Was supposedly just removed from a closed system as all the other components I bought from a salvaged 75 280z. Thanks again for your help.

Do you happen to know which ones will work with the high pressure switch? I'm more concerned with the fittings especially for the pressure switch. I didn't see anything available that has the switch and I don't know if they are all adaptable. Thanks....

I have an a/c system for my 1975 280z that is a factory type that cam out of another 75 280z. I've been told that I should replace the receiver drier since it is 40 years old and probably no good. Problem is it has the low pressure switch and all the new ones do not have this provision along with the same fittings for the copper tubing. I did find a few places that say they have the correct replacement but after trying to buy one they are out of stock. None of the dealers have them either. Anyone have a solution other than swapping out for aftermarket and trying to retro fit the copper lines? Also way to add a low pressure switch that will work with the factory harness? I'm open to suggestions but if you have done this I am all ears.......thanks

The problem with the dryer replacement is the connections. They don't line up with the old dryer and the pressure switch is non-existent. Maybe there is a different way to hook up the pressure switch? My a/c system is not in the car as my 75 never had a/c so I am going by all the parts I collected and also the diagram of how they should fit including Nissan part numbers. I have never had any experience with either r12 or r134a. Nor installing a/c in a car. This is all new to me but starting to learn. I would like to keep it original if possible but I don't want to sacrifice cooling. I did do the Kia blower upgrade and was told I need to replace the dryer and try to find a larger condenser. Thanks....

The only issue I have with leaving the hard lines is the receiver/dryer need replacing so I will not be able to find one that works with the existing fittings and lines.

Due to new 0-ring fittings.....

My 75 has them also. Many have said you can just remove them and save some weight. I guess if you feel a difference you could just re-install them.

Just get the ones from MSA. I have them and they are nice. Also you will need the conversion brackets.

I am doing the factory air in my 75 also. The receiver/drier in no longer available so I will try and find a suitable replacement. Most don't have the electrical pressure connection so makes it difficult. I am also going to convert to r134a since r12 is expensive and hard to find in California. I already replaced the fan/blower motor with the Kia one which I got new from Ebay. Also all new under dash ducting. Just hoping the stock compressor, evaporator, and vacuum is all good. On the fence with replacing the condenser. Not sure there is room to go much bigger. I did add the fan shroud and plan on a pusher up front if the stock fan doesn't do the job. I am guessing with changing to r134a I will need to ditch all the hard lines and replace with new soft lines. Think I will send all my components to an A/C shop to check them before installing. Good luck with yours and post how it goes......

Good question......

I got one window done but no shims.

Perfect....thanks!

I have the quarter window out but can't get the stainless steel frame to open up to remove the glass. I got the 4 screws at the front vertical portion and the 2 screws at the rear but nothing wants to break loose. The rubber is hard as a rock so I tried soaking it in hot water and soap overnight but still won't budge. Any tricks to getting it apart? I have all new rubber if I can get the frame to come apart. Thanks......

Sorry, guess I didn't get my mouse over the correct forum. I did get the 2 screws out after removing the 4 screws. Total of 6 screws. The rear does have an insert that the 2 screws came out of. No rust anywhere, just really hard rubber. Wonder if the internal bracket at the rear slides out?

I have the quarter window out but can't get the stainless steel frame to open up to remove the glass. I got the 4 screws at the front vertical portion and the 2 screws at the rear but nothing wants to break loose. The rubber is hard as a rock so I tried soaking it in hot water and soap overnight but still won't budge. Any tricks to getting it apart? I have all new rubber if I can get the frame to come apart. Thanks......

That's funny. I got mine from them in about 7 or 8 days due to the weekend and Columbus day. Might want to be a little patient. They are well worth the money. Plus, you can call them and they explain how to install them. Very nice people.

Removed old staples and rubber. New rubber from Z Car Source. Used T50 #506 staples. Drilled out holes just enough to fit staples. Starting at rear and working forward inserting staples and using flat head screwdriver push staple in hard with thumb and hold it while bending end of staple with screwdriver. Takes awhile but works great. This is what Z Car Source advised me to do.

I ended up calling Z car source where I bought the rubber from. They told me to drill out the holes with a bit just a tiny bit bigger than the hole and use T50 #506 staples. Then push them in with a flat head screwdriver and bend them over with needle nose pliers. I'll post how that works out. I hope I won't have to replace them again. My staples were originals and had lots of rust and it was a pain to remove them.

I am about to do the same project and have removed the staples but the holes for the staples are round and my staples are not round. Where did you find staples and what size did you use? Also, thinking of gluing the new rubber to the removed metal strip, then pushing the staples through the rubber before trying to attach to the molding. Ideas? Thanks....