MerloZ

What size injectors. It was previously mentioned 440cc were running out with this setup. I'll probably get them from godzillaraceworks along with everything else needed. 550cc??

Ok so not sure if this is exactly what we are talking about but I think it is I set required fuel to 300cc injectors. I've read these injectors flow 330 when clean and at 40.5 psi. That's all about where I'm at but I never cleaned them just ran them for years. Did some autotuning to adjust the cells down and drove a few miles. At 4-5k rpm with a fuel load of 160-180kpa two cells down from the top my pulse width goes over 25 might of even hit 30, and my duty cycle hits 120% I think injectors are the correct answer here right? I did a engine +map log but I'm not sure if that has the injector info on it or not. I didn't see a pulse width or duty cycle log?.

Sounds like something tunerstudio can read on the megasquirt but I'm not exactly sure what I'm looking for. I know I have injector pulse width in milliseconds as a gauge. I'll try to do some quick digging and maybe a data log to see if the injectors flatten out on a graph or something. I wish I had the time to dig into this like I did when I was 16.

Others have told me it's not the injectors and you have said it is so I just don't know

Oh I forgot if I mentioned this in the thread. I replaced the O2 sensor and recalibrated it and I'm no longer making out the ve table. Like I mentioned before right before the "bucking" or the lean condition you think I may have from lack of injector I am at 15 psi and 11 afr at around 120 on the ve table. My old O2 was definitely reading bad and was doing the same thing but much much worse. I know this turbo flows way more air. What is a way I can test if the injectors are maxed out.

Right before it "bucks" it is at 15 psi and 11 afr. While bigger injectors might be the fix it also seems odd. How can 17psi run 440cc injectors out when I hit 15 no issue Only difference I see is timing right?. I know my timing is quite conservative. Anyway I could change fuel numbers and test the injectors or something. I'd rather not just throw money at it Car runs great with this turbo until it hits the top two rows on the ve table. After 4500ish. Just seems odd to me. It really doesn't seem like boost is kicking in and it's going lean. It seems more like the fuel table is fine and at that point it's rich all of a sudden and floods the plugs. I let off the moment it "bucks" It doesn't seem like detonation to me but I guess I've never blown up an engine. I'd say that's a good thing.

Problem still persists. Changed fuel counts from 70-200 still does the same thing for top two fuel rows

I agree and sure if like to not spend money but I posted this to figure out if I need bigger injectors. Below the top two rows of my fuel table my afr reads 11 then spikes lean. Do you think that's actually lean? Or just out of range. 12 psi on the factory turbo didn't seem to be an issue at all for the factory injectors.. hell I pushed 14 on that turbo before with steady 11 afr. These are factory turbo ones not NA ones.

Okay so in the top two rows of my fuel table my car bucks quite hard. I've changed ve table numbers from 70-200 No matter the number my car does the same thing. Rich or lean. While graphing afraid goes down to 11 and then spikes like it goes out of range or something. 82 L28et Intercooled 15 psi on he351c bored out Wastegate hole 255 fuel pump Factory spark Ms2 ECU 240sx throttle body Factory turbo injectors turned up a few psi to like 40 or so Lc2 wideband 3 inch straight pipe I thought I would run out of injector with this turbo but I was previously told I should be ok. Ive been tuning it and I cant figure it out. Does seem rich or lean necessarily it just stops making power and reads out of range.

I'm going to try to re calibrate my sensor. I can't find much for testing online for it. I did recalibrate in the exhaust cold but it does say to do it out of the exhaust. It never read like this before I did this swap but I did do that recalibrattion. Weird because that's always how I've done recalibrations but weirder things are possible.

I notice while watching the wide band on tuner studio while trying to auto-tune. I was adjusting the idle fuel cells. If I adjust them to 12.5 AFR like the engine usually likes at idle. The tuner studio number will sit around there for a few seconds and then go lean and out of rangem I'm not sure what my lc2 gauge is reading as it's hanging. Not sure if it reads 12.5 or if it reads 22 like tunerstudio does. However the lc2 gauge never showed me that issue before.

The injectors have never been cleaned. When I originally built this engine I figured slap it on see if it runs and it always I have ran some fuel system cleaners through the gas previously for that reason. But never professionally cleaned. My injectors are brown, not green so that leads me to believe that they're factory turbo injectors because that's what they came off of. Also I was running 12.5 PSI with the factory turbo. Also, I apologize, I do have a front mount intercooler as well. With the old turbo I at one point ran 15 PSI of boost just for haha's and it did not lean out. . I guess we are thinking a wide band issue, If I had to take a stab at it I would guess it's the sensor. I believe I've cooked one before but it was on the stock. L28 downpipe. Once I read the manual I then bought a bong and put it about 2, 2 and 1/2 ft down the down pipe, it's probably a few inches past the bellhousing after 2 45 turns. A local friend of mine has some car meets and I always go to them and win an exhaust competition from spitting 3 ft flames, I believe this to be the reason the factory turbo went bad. Maybe the wide band is on its way out as well from all the flames?

So I did increase required fuel and it gave me more head room but it didn't seem to affect it. How can I tell factory turbo injectors from non turbo ones? Also yes the turbo is set higher for ten psi but I haven't even been able to hit that yet. The moment its under boost it seems to go lean

So I did increase required fuel and it gave me more head room but it didn't seem to affect it. How can I tell factory turbo injectors from non turbo ones?

The injectors should be stock l28et injectors. I've been running a map from chickenman for years with that setup on the stock turbo. Too many backfires killed the thrust bearing. I will double check the type of injectors I have maybe they had non turbo injectors on the engine when I got it but none of it looked tampered with back then. If not the injectors than what might be the issue? Just the wideband going out of range?

Recently finished a swap of a 2005 Cummins holset he351 onto my car. Swap went pretty smooth. Obviously I read other people need larger injectors but I'm just trying to hit boost a little bit as I've spent a lot this year. I've been trying to tune/ auto tune it in-between things for a week or two and it seems the moment I hit boost it goes lean. I am having trouble and some of it may be the o2 out of range filter on auto tune. I'm unsure if it is too rich or too lean but the o2 out of range comes all all over the board. Annoying but I think that's just my lack of time spent trying to narrow in the VE table it's weird it reads 22 are when it's clearly too rich. For example at idle I richen it and it goes from 11afr to 22 and goes out of range. Anyway. My VE table and engine was seemingly still going lean the moment boost hit. Table kept slowly increasing fuel till it hit 255 I then upped fuel pressure from 37 to 43 in hopes to get some extra CC's out of them thinking that's the issue. I changed required fuel in tuner studio. Original CC setting for injectors was 260 and I upped it to 295. Tried tuning it that way. Obviously autotune leaned things out and then started to richen up the boost area again. Cells Starting at 120 and now we are at 166. Still seemingly going lean. Injectors must be out of flow? It's just odd because I'm at 2psi of boost at that point and the stock turbo was pushing 12-13 psi. Interesting that just the size of the compressor housing is changing afr that much? I believe I know my answer is getting maybe the 440 CC injectors from Godzilla Just wanted to get some other opinions. Maybe I'm missing something. I was hoping to run lower boost maybe 17psi max and keep the stock injectors for now. I will also add in I did a quick table generator, it was maxed out Rich at the bottom (255)and close to that rich under boost. Maybe I'm the 40's everywhere else. It clearly was a bit too lean driving around in the 40's on the ve table but once it hit boost that was the fastest the cars been in a while. So where I'm currently at is maybe with the added fuel pressure I can bump my VE Table up in the 200's and it might be somewhat drivable under boost. If that's not the case I think I need injector upgrades? Let me know your guys thoughts. Thankyou. Stock injectors and fuel rail 240sx throttle body 255lph walbro Trigger wheel Ms2 Lc2 wideband He351 ported and enlarged wastegate Custom adjustable wastegate set top open 5mm at 16psi 3 inch exhaust

I see a few Cummins turbos for sale on marketplace near me and I'm tempted to get one. I see a few threads on them but am unsure of If i absolutely need an external wastegate or if the internal ones are okay. I still have stock injectors and fuel rail as well. Upgraded tranny to sr20 trans and a stronger driveshaft to an r200. Also will I need the 280zx drive axles?

Didnt log it either times as it was so random dodnt have my laptop and by the time i have time to check it out its fixed. Tested with a test light but i doubt its a wire as its directly from the megasquirt with the purple wire in the diy harness. I actually think i checked it at the ecu also last tike it happened but that was a few years ago.

Just took the z out for the first time since fall and a few miles into my trip it cut the fuel pump ground and the car died in a really crappy spot. Luckily a cop helped me push it to a lot for me to figure it out. Jumped the fuel pump relay to get it home and now a day later it works fine.? This has happened once before? Any ideas what setting or physical problem could trigger the ecu to do that?. It cuts out and wont turn back on until the car sits for a day.

This is the third time my crank pulley bolt has come loose i torque it to spec every time and i use loctite?? Im at a loss never had this happen on anything before.

All right so with hours of research. I'm nearly positive the transmission I will be getting is the 71e it's a 93 so it should have wider gears I would hope. Haven't found too much info on that or on gear ratios. But by the looks of the transmission online it looks like it is shorter than the 240sx trans by at least 2 inches. But a short throw shifter from a 240sx will n NOT work. Sadly I really wanted the b&m. But on a hardbody forum countless people have tried all 240sx short throws and the only one that could sort of work is the eBay one that's like 40 bucks and all you use is the new shifter rod. So I just think it's like swapping to a shorter shifter but not actually a short throw. The person I'm getting it from should have it pulled soon. I'm going to bring one of my 4 speeds and a spare driveshaft and clutch disk just to make sure that's all the same because I really can not find any definite answer on much of anything.. but if I can contribute to some info for another decent tranny swap that could potentially be cheaper than a 240sx trans I'll be happy. I'll keep y'all posted

Good news new keyway fits in crank without any wobble . Got a new bolt and wasger from z car depot and the bolt is the same one and threads all the way into the crank. When its all installed should have 3/4 of an inch of thread in the crank

Pulled my motor after work today. The crank key slot is slightly hammered open but i should be able to do something about that. Maybe just for everyones information. Obviously it makes total sense now that i realise what was going on. But ive had to change my ignition timing a few times in megasquirt by about 20 degrees each time. Could not even comprehend why or how. But when the pulley slides forward so can the timing gear on the crank thus rotating the dizzy shaft. Lol. Fml

The old damper was loose as it the keyway slot got worn. Swapped it with another l28et one i had along with the thick washer but no lock washer as when i got this motor it seemed untouched and thats how the balancer was held on. I put the spare on exactly how i had the other one on and torqued it dry. I was driving across town on a very cold morning so no over heating as i was moving right along not just sitting there. Noticed my afr gauge started reading 7.5 and thought it was odd. Probably cause the car was running low on voltage as the alternator was not charging. Which i didnt notice or even care to look at. Parked it noticed blue haze cominf from hood. And the fan wasnt spinning. The pulley along with bolt and washer were hanging in the belt.. amazing. I didnt loose anything but the key. But the pulley chipped a big chuck off of the collar that goes over the crank and inside the seal. So im thinking it needs a lock washer possibly and that my bolt never actually tightened on the balancer it was just bottoming out? But im oulling y motor this week ill measure everything make sure its right.

I dont know if you would call this failing. I mean they r just coming off as if i never even torqued them