MerloZ
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Everything posted by MerloZ
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So my car does have an EIM okay. So cut that out with the resistor then the blue wire should work with the tac?. White and black wire doesnt have to be connected?
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Which one blue or white with black stripe. I think i tried a few combinations and none worked.
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Is it possible to easily wire my 74.5 260z tach to the coil and or megasquirt so my tachometer can work properly. Pretty sure my tach is like a 280z tach not a 240z tach. Blue wire and white with black stripe wire. I connected them to the coil and the car foesnt start with them connected i asdumr this is because its sending voltage to the coil and interfering with the megasquirt spark. Any ideas?. Thanks
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Could my tune possibly work. Has been running damn good recently.. not sure if your using diy auto tunes trigger wheel or not those should be the only different settings as mine is basically stock.
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Hello again. My l28et is running very very rich and im sure of it. Spark plugs are black. I thought i ruined my o2 sensor so i go another one and AFR is still reading at 10. Fuel pressure is perfect. I have stock injectors however i have no resistors in the wires to them and each set of 3 injectors is connected to a 20 amp fuse. My fuel settings should be perfect according to lots of research on the forum. If anyone has used a ms2 on a nearly stock l28et please tell me if you used resistors or not and why. Ive read that the ms2 flyback board should compensate for this but ive also read that its only for 4 injectors?. Vacuum is at 14in/hg when it should be at 19. If i put my stock resistor block in the wiring will that affect anything badly even if its not the issue?
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New o2 and aeromotive FPR installed. Fuel pressure is perfect now and its still running pig rich. This is a megasquirt or wiring issue
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I recomend getting the l28et trigger wheel and following the instructions from DIY. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/hardware/nissan-trigger-disc/ Without you knowing a bunch about the wiring its hard to tell where the issue is. The trigger wheel is super easy to replace but make sure you dont put it in upside down.
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My lc-2 is faulty and im also working on that. Currently it is disabled in tunerstudio. The car is definately running rich. And im nearly certain that all my tunerstudio settings are correct. You say you can tune around higher fuel pressure however the car likes to idle with a VE value of 1. This is clearly very wrong as they should be somewhere around 20. All my injector settings are next to perfect if not perfect. If there is any other settings that could cause running that rich what would it be. Accel enrich? The engine is running very rich the spark plugs get black with soot after less than 30 miles.
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Who said its too much work for me are you joking lol. Ill check vacuum soon.
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My FPR does not leak down nor does it leak into the vacuum line but it is old. I understand that the aeromotives leak down, however why would this be an issue at all, the car doesnt need pressure when the car is off. My stock FPR holds that pressure. Vacuum is measured by my boost gauge and my MAP sensor they both read the same but i have not measure vacuum at the end of the line going to the FPR i doubt its leaking though. all three of these things are connected to the intake manifold.
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Fuel pressure for a stock EFI Z is 37 at WOT! Fuel pressure at idle is supposed to be 30 not 36. with the engine running and the vacuum line plugged and disconnected my FPR should read 37 simulating 0in/Hg or WOT. when i connect wacuum fuel pressure should drop to about 30 psi because the engine idles with a vacuum of about 19 in/Hg. so 10 Psi of fuel too much not 4 psi. I did not rev the engine when i measured pressure i never thought about voltage however, my pump is pumping TOO much at idle so i would like to fix this before i fix getting TOO much with the engine revved up getting more voltage.
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I do have an Ms2 and i do realise that i should be able to tune around it however with fuel pressure at 40 at idle thats 10 psi more than stock and when i lower my VE table numbers the car starts to lean out a bit but the numbers are way too low. at idle a VE number of 1 is still too rich. what does battery voltage have to do with it if the tested fuel pressure with and without the engine running is the same with the FPR connected?
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Whoops sorry you are both right i have 40 psi with vacuum and 44 with vacuum disconnected and crimped. All my fuel lines are 5/16 OD. I dissconected the outlet of the stock FPR and ran the pump (not the engine) with the fuel going into a gas can. So this deletes the return line from the equation and i still get the exact same reading 44 psi. now when i remove the stock FPR and run fuel into the gas can fuel pressure reads at 22 psi. I am now going to order an aeromotive FPR and gauge however do or will i need bigger fuel lines. with the walbro 255 and a 5/16 line from the tank to the fuel rail at full throttle will my stock injectors use more fuel than the 5/16 lines can handle. if thats the case i assume i will also need a larger fuel rail and probably return line correct? thankyou.
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Ok ill try that. But no i have pressure higher with vacuum
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Ive read another post on here that the walbro 255lph worked for them on their l28et 280zx. I have recently megasquirted my car and its running rich due to fuel pressure. My car is an l28et swapped late model 260z. The engine has stock injectors and stock fuel rail. Also the Stock FPR that might be damaged. I have a fuel pressure gauge in line before the injectors and the FPR after the injectors. I have the walbro 255lph pump in line and fuel pressure is reading about 44 without any vacuum disconnected. And around 40 with it disconnected. Anyone have any ideas. Is the pump too much for the fpr or is the fpr bad? . Also i belive all my lines are 5/16. Thankyou
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A huge thanks to Chickenman (Richard) for spending so much time on the computer with me today. Dont know how i could ever repay you. shes gonna go to the car show yayy. best birthday ever. 18 yrs old means they cant take my liscense on the spot.. hehe. here is the data log i last took while goin out for a rip. Composite Log 1.zip
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DIY had a tune i should have downloaded. god damn that would have been nice to know. ive talked to Matt Cramer about this build too im suprised he didnt mention it. MAP sensor is the one that comes with the ms2 i believe its a GM. Also what is the dampening material you are talking about like where is it located what does it do.
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Allright ill do this stuff tmrw. You told last time when it was running i touched no settings in tunerstudio i just moved the dizzy and clicked fixed timing. I adjusted timing by turning the dizzy. I now understand that is wrong to do it like that but thats what i did then. I have not calibrated anything besides tps i didnt even think of that so ill get that done tmrw too.
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Ecu gets power throught a relay and a 3 amp wire it all worked before so its either sumthing stupid that ill find or mahbe a setting? Idk? Okay ill try that data loging stuff tmrw not much time at all today as its easter. The car does not run but its close o think i just gotta play with it a bit. I am running the stock 260z coil i had an aftearket accel one but it leaked oil caused problems then shit the bed. Tomorow and tuesday i should have all the time in the world to work on this and my car.
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merloZ3 all cranking data logs.zipHeres all the logs also torwards the end of my testing i didnt have to turn the key off and on as many times but when i did it was totally random.
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wow well im glad your here ive had my fair share of shocks from welding in a puddle to spark plugs to leaving my finger in between a wall plug when i plug it in.. but okay thakyou for the advice.
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Not exactly sure what a noid light is but ive been using one of those lights that i plug in between the plug wire and the plug and with that its the same thing after first crank i get no spark through it. I dont have a jim stim but i have a basic stim.
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I managed to set the timing at 10 btdc like u wanted right.. #1 angle of 375.. does that sound right??. Engine sometimes seems like it sparks at the wrong time when cranking and it jolts the engine to a stop. Like pre detonation of some sort. That bad thing.
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I allready ran into that issue last week and fixed it. I leave my key in the run position and im using a starter button to start it. Wouldnt that bypass it.