MerloZ
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Everything posted by MerloZ
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okay good idea with bypassing the fuel rail. im going out in just a minute to try everything chickenman told me.if it runs i assume the fuel pressure will go down a little and if not ill bypass it.
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Chickenman. im sorry for being so uneducated. I used someone elses tune because when i clicked create new tune, tunerstudio basically yelled at me and told me its a bad idea. it said warning creating a tune from scratch is not a good idea you may want to start with a similar setup. So please understand im just trying to listen to what everything is telling me and it seems as if im running in circles. but im glad i have a genious like you to tell me what to actually to do.
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Okay everyone i just got home from work and i put a temporary fuel pressure gauge in line for now. And im sorry if im like offending anyone by seeming as if im rushing to get this car running but in a way i am. I am by no means trying to be rude i apreciate all of your information very much. Understand that im a busy 17 yr old with a nearly booked schedule and trying to comprehend this learning curve is a challenge but i will in no way give up. I went ms2 more for learning than for my car... lol anyway. I cranked it over and i got 44psi without the injectors firing. Which is high but not too high right??. Stock is 37psi running i think. Chicken man i will download your latest file you gave me and see what happens. I will be back with a data log too. But first i gotta read all this stuff. Also yes i connected all the sensors. I now have coolant,o2,tps, and iat for sensors. Again. Thanks for all the help.
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I told you my boost control is the stock wastegate at 6.8 psi. I have a boost gauge so i wont go over 5. Im sorry i know i havnt done too much research but ive done as much as i can. Im a busy kid and guite honestly i have no idea how you guys have time to read all this information. I ordered a FPR just in case. Ive read quite a bit over the last few months but clearly its not enough. Im trying to at least be able to limp this car to a car show 10 miles down my road on the 23rd lol. Also chicken man, why should i set timing to 10BTDC i understand what you said and how to do it but what about the actual dizzy dont i have to turn that to 10 BTDC also?? I thought l28et was supposed to be set at 17-22 BTDC??? Right now my timing light flashes at 19 BTDC and my fixed timing matches that.. right. Ughh. So much confusion. So many questions
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Also Chickenman what do you mean log everything. i havnt really explored the data logging portion of the ms2. Can it be logging all the time without the computer hooked up?
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Allright im back inside from the garage. everything is wired up and working properly. The jb weld seems to be working better than i thought and i didnt see any leaking. After i burnt off the excess fuel from the spark plugs and engine i let them both sit exposed to air for 2 days. I didnt have a T fitting to use with my pressure gauge so i couldnt sucsessfuly test that. i will properly test that later tomorow. So i put my injector fuses back in and hoped for the best. With all the correct settings in the tune the car started for like 3 seconds and sounded good. then it wouldnt start after that. i pull the plugs and they are soaked yet again. at this point it has to be the fuel pump supplying too much pressure. both pressure and return line look to be 3/8 now that i looked at them. so in that case i need a new adjustable FPR right?
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Okay cool thanks so much for maiking me a tune. I working on fixing some of my setting right now. Then i will go wire up the lc2 along with the coolant temp sensor and hope for the best.i JB welded the crackedhousing and put the GM sensor in. Obviously i wont trust it too much but it should work good enough for now.and for boost regulator i have the stock wastegate which i believe is set at 6.8 psi
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Here are the specs for my setup engine- 2,753 cc stock l28et Injectors- 259cc TunerStudio settings (Batch fire / wated spark or single coil) Settings under Basic Setup -> Tach Input / Ignition Settings: Spark mode: Toothed Wheel Ignition input capture: Falling Edge Spark output will depend on what output setup you’re using. BIP373s and QuadSparks both use Going High / Inverted.Getting this setting wrong can damage the ignition module and/or coils. If the ignition module or coils get hot with the key on and the engine off, turn the key off immediately and select the opposite output setting. Settings under Basic Setup -> Trigger Wheel Settings: Trigger wheel arrangement: Single wheel with missing tooth Trigger wheel teeth: 12 Missing Teeth: 1 Tooth #1 angle: 345 (This varies slightly between individual engines. Check with a timing light and adjust as needed.) Wheel speed: Crank wheel Injector specs (found on this forum) noteven sure what they mean yet lol.- Topen(MS)-1.2 PWM current limit-30% PWM threshold(ms)- 1.5
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Correct i have an Ms2 v3.0 but i assembled that myself. i ran into some trouble but its back to working order thanks to Matt at DIY. Yes the expansion board you are talking about i believe is the ms2 daughter card. there is no added on mystery drivers aside from the spark setup DIY told me i needed for the l28et dizzy.
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Okay i will try that. Stock injectors 269cc i believe.
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This is just a few pics of my car/ engine. 74 late model 260z. Got it when i was 15 fully restored it in a little over a year aside from tranny and engien rebuilds. However now it obviously has a rebuilt engine. The engine swap was the winter project. The car was in terrible condition rust and body wise. I did about 90 percent of everything myself. But could have done i all i was just determined to drive it to a car show. And i did without brakes haha.
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Okay thankyou i well get working on all that tomorow. I did copy the tune file to my version but alot of stuff didnt work so. I physically copied every single setting. Is that okay?. Obviously some are wrong probably due to the axis being inverted and similar stuff like that, that just doesnt correspond with the new version. I used jb weld on my thermostat housing and looks like it is gonna do the trick. (For now at least). And no im not twisting the wires that would be a nightmare oh my god. Im using heat shrink crimps. I would solder them and heat shrink them but ive never gotten the hang of that. So tomorow if all goes well it will be wired up to all sensors. I will test fuel pressure. And possibly get a log file if i can get i to run again. If i have time i will find all the proper specs and settings and post them here. I know most of them right now but ill wait till i have them all. However the inletand outlet of the FPR are only like quarter inch line so how could adding a bigger pressure and return line create any difference until i switch FPR's. Also anyone know of good FPR's that wont out a hole in my pocket.
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That setting is correct to what my tune file says i saw that and it looked wrong and i know 269cc is the correct number but that file came from another person so i figured id better not mess with something that suposedly worked for someone else.
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Also off the top of my head the pressure line is 3/8 and return islike 5mm or sunthin like that.
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Okay so i couldnt really test anything today. I was installing the gm coolant temp sensor and i cracked the friggin housing. I started to wire the piggy for it. When i get time i will also wire in the o2 sensor. Today was i had some time but now i wont have time till thursday or friday. Thankyou for the quick replies its very very apreciated and im super glad your helping me out. Did you look at the tune file.
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No real reason i dont have a coolant sensor. i guess i didnt feel like tapping a 3/8 hole but today i realised how dumb im being so i went to NAPA and got one with a pigtail just a minuete ago. im going to connect that today. is it a bad or good idea to leave the lc2 seperate from the ms2 for now or should i connect it to the wiring harness. Right now its just going to the gauge. Also is it possible that my walbro 255 lph pump is making too much pressure even if the stock fpr is working? i was thinking that could be why its rich also. Here is the file.tune.zip
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Ms2 v3 3.4.2
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Im sorry. I uploaded the tune file but i guess i dont know how to do that properly. I have iat sensor, tps, dizzy, coil and injectors wired into the megasquirt. I will try and upload the file again. Once u get home from school.
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Hello, Can anyone smarter than me take a look at this tune and tell me what is wrong with it for my build. I have a pretty much stock 82 l28et stock injectors DIY wiring harness i put together. iac sensor 240sx 65mm throttle body and tps DIY trigger wheel single coil lc2 wideband (not wired to ms2) walbro 255 lph inline fuel pump no other sensors are connected to the MS2 Ive been messing around with some other peoples tunes and came up with this. This started the previously warm car yesterday and i set my timing on the car with this project. its set to around 19 btdc because it was running so rough. The car was running very rich and was backfiring with every change in throttle. i assume the ignition settings might be wrong and the fuel map is too rich. ive scaled down the fuel map and it didnt seem to change much at all. could their possibly be other more hidden settings that i also have to change. Today i tried to start it and it just kept flooding itself no matter what spark settings i change or if i scale down the fuel map. Im new to this type of stuff so any help is apreciated. ive been researching so much and tried so many things but nothing is working. thankyou.
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Ms2 extra. 3.4.2 Changing the nbers on the VE table seem to not effect how the car runs
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I got my l28et running. However all the settings confuse me. Yhe car runs but quite bad. I have the afr, VE , and ignition tables copied from one persons file. For spark settings i have it set up according to DIY autotune for the trigger disc setup. And the rest of the file is from another persons similar setup. People say to just copy fuel tables to a new file instead of trying to run someone elses tune. I copied every setting from the simialer tune aside from the tables and the spark settings. Could those be the reason the car seems to constantly run rich. The car is backfireing and crackleing alot. Timing is pretty solid. And plug wires are correct. Also by decreasing the VE table values it seems to almost make no difference in how it runs. I know all this is very vauge but any help is apreciated as always. Thanks
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Thankyou for your replies they all have helped. I now realise my fuel lines were backwards so the fuel wasnt even getting to the injectors thats why i bypassed it. It is a turbo cars regulator its the stock one. This all makes sense i just kinda needed to be guided on what to do but i know enough to actually do it. I copied a full tune onto a new file 3.4.2. But i am now having actual ecu issues possibly fried something in it. I am emailing matt from DIY. Trying to sort it out and then i will try to fire it again. Thankyou a bunch fellas
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Today was very unsucsessful. I tested for spark and fuel. Not getting fuel but i hear the injectors ticking. Anyway. I realised that the map foes not match my firmware version. 3.4.2 so i assimed thats part if not all of the problem. I go to change it and all of a sudden my ms2 is failing to connect no matter what i do. I spent 3 hours troubleshooting today and got no where. Smh
