zboi
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Posts posted by zboi
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2 hours ago, MichaelsVintage said:
Hi, what's the ratio of the R180?
3.364
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bump for price reduction
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Parts taken off of a 73 240z:
Location:
Durham North Carolina
!** I'll sell everything together for $50 for local pickup **!
R180 rear end with axles -$30
Stock refurbished radiator -$40SOLD2x rear aluminum drums - $50
Frigiking dealer added AC unit - $25
Expansion tank with hoses -$25
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July 15 2018 is when I donated.
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I'm a donating member. I've donated $20. Yet my ability to post in the for sale section has been removed. I sent messages through the site support email but no one has responded. What is the deal?
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On 9/2/2019 at 9:15 PM, JQADDINGMACHINE said:
it cools wonderfully like this with no shroud and a small fan I pulled from what I think was a Kia Optima at a junkyard. high 90 degree days in traffic I never saw over 215f coolant temp. I think the 2 factory vents on my 280z hood really help extract heat from the engine bay.
Impressive that that is cooling well. Well I'll be going the smaller fan, stock radiator, less work route then. Shame I already did some now unnecessary trimming to the core support.
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Trying to find out how everyone with a turbo ls engine are doing as far as cooling. Especially if using a stock size radiator.
I am doing a turbo swap and can just barely squeeze in a stock sized radiator in the stock location but can only fit 1 14" fan offset to one side. Otherwise I can get a slightly longer but narrower radiator ("double pass" style with side tanks) to fit if installed at an angle. It can fit a 16" fan in that position, but obviously is going to be a bit of work to mount. Any thoughts on which route to go?
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I did the cx kit, was cheap and easy initially but is now causing difficulties. It mounts the engine high and the motor mounts make it so you cant use factory ac mounting locations as well as limiting the alternator setback. Looking now the apex engineered piece looks better and will allow you to run better suspension. Seems it may still cause interference with the AC though.
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16x8 I'd guess, with whatever the maximum possible negative offset is. May not even be stock suspension, look how little of the tire is actually in the rear wheel well.
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How much does the rear kit weigh? Whats the noise like on the cantilever suspension? It is right behind the drivers head.
Also how would you adjust toe on the rear? The uper mount wount allow it since both arms are tied to each other where they mount the knuckle. I only see it allowing minor adjustment by flexing the bushing. You may want to throw a balljoint up there instead. Would also just need one upper leg with that it seems.
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I have an original 240z radiator that has been cleaned and restored (oil cooler not included) and a R180 rear from a 73 240z. The R180 comes with the axles. Shipping of the rear is probably not doable but I could ship the radiator.
-$100 for each
-Located in Durham North Carolina
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On 1/15/2019 at 2:54 AM, Invincibleextremes said:
The super 8.8 bolts in just fine. Measuring the axles and will be getting them cut and splined.
What axles are you cutting? I thought the stock mustang ones were hollow.
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That isnt a g-nose
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Sounds like you have a lot more learning to do. All ls motors share the same mount pattern on the block, but yes there are many cars with ls motors and hence many mount styles. Easiest thing is to look at some pictures of ls swaps on here and you can see how things line up.
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The only flares I can find are screw on fiberglass ones. Are yours steel or fiberglass?
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Where did you get those fender flares from? I didn't want to go the bolt on route and was looking for something like what you have.
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Seems to have gone up in price a lot, any roll bars that weld to the floor and the rear strut towers suggested?
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So before anyone says anything I know there is apparently threads out there about this, but when I searched I got 950+ results and none were about a roll bar.
Regardless, is this still the recommended roll bar, and has the design changed over the years? From their website it looks like it attaches to the floor instead on to the wheel arches, and also seems to cost a lot more than before. Is Johnc still a dealer and can sell theses for a better price?
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Well you could continue to just blindly replace everything, or you could just hook up a logger to the car and see what is actually happening. Seeing as how you didn't even notice your map sensor unplugged before, I think its safe to assume the wiring on it is questionable. You may have swapped your front O2s with the back O2 plugs or something or cut some wires, or not have the power hooked up to the sensor.
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I have been doing some custom stuff to the rear suspension of my 240z, and long story short I need shorter struts for clearance reasons. Ideally I would like a strut cartridge that is 6" shorter in length than the stock rear 240z strut. Please let me know if you know something that fits the bill. I've seen that the front struts for a 92 MR2 are supposed to be 20.125" in length which I think is close to 3" shorter, but I really would like 6" shorter.
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Don't worry about it, that should be well within the CV axle's range of articulation.
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I have a few A arms...
What I really need is the McPherson strut thing
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Do you need the whole strut? It sounds like you may need the A arm too.It's to wet today but I think Saturday is going to be nice.
If you want to pull the parts I will let you have the strut the A arm and the axle for $65
I'd take you up on that. My only concern is what if the pin is frozen real bad in that one too. Its a fair bit of work getting all that taken off.
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The threads got mashed from being beaten on and pressed, and then I welded a rod to them to try to twist it so it would break free and it just snapped the bolt. This thing is seriously stuck in there bad.
73 240z stock parts
in Parts for Sale
Posted
bump for price reductions