zboi
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Posts posted by zboi
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On 1/5/2023 at 2:24 PM, Mayolives said:
I have rear arms from a 73 here in N. Myrtle Beach. Yours for the taking away.
Tried to message you, but says you can't receive messages.
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Maybe, I know when I am looking to buy something I search all the forums in the classifieds section only. I don't look in the other sections.
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I still am unable to post on the classifieds. I think this is a widespread issue and is detrimental to the forum as a whole, as buying and selling parts is a big part of a forum.
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Looking for a rear control arm.
I'm located in Durham NC, so if anyone is local that would be even better. -
I donated $20 yesterday, not seeing my status change to post in the classifieds though. Not really seeing much activity in the classifieds at all. I know before this was broken and the admin needed to manually change status.
Can an admin change my status?
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Hood is the stock hood with fiberglass vents bonded in. I can only squeeze a 2" pipe between the firewall and passenger exhaust manifold so would need to transition the exhaust down big time. Seems like it would kill the power, also would need to rewire the car as a bunch of factory looms are there asking to be melted (and a brake line). When I had it coming out of the hood before it was only about 1" above the hoodline, was working fine without residue on the windshield or fumes. Maybe that was alleviated some due to all the high pressure under the hood also shooting out of that hole, may not have the same effect with dedicated vents now. Only place I could dump it otherwise is down into the ground in front of the steering rack.
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I have a turbo ls 240z. Right now I have the turbo dumping kinda out the hood, through hood vents. My hood is like this one:
Problem now is the hood vents are getting melted, and a bit of the fumes are getting into the car. I can either cut an opening in one of the vents to have the exhaust fully exit the hood (I had it that way before I put the hood vents on). Or have it come out the fender near the battery. I don't really want to do the fender exhaust since my battery area is mint and it probably wouldn't be good for the value of the car, but that said it would be the best place for it as there would be no worries of fumes or rain.
What are your opinions?
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My experiences with any transmission Ford has touched in the past 8 years has been negative. Not to say they broke, but just really wonky shifting behavior and poor feel. Have you driven anything with this transmission before?
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You would be better off going for the 8l90e if that is your goal, they are similar size. I wouldn't waste money hopping up the l28, it will net you far less $/hp than an ls.
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17 hours ago, rturbo 930 said:
I had seen those, but that is not an option. Firstly 1.5" is too much, secondly that kit is a huge job and removes the use of a rear bumper.
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I am running 275s in the rear, and the tires just barely scuff the inner quarter. I could get away with flaring the fenders, but they are all full of bondo and thus any attempt to flare results in cracking bondo. That said, its the perfect opportunity to hide them with some flares or replace them.
So question is, is there any quarters that come with small flares built in? Otherwise I need to find some small flares (like 1cm-1inch), but all I see are bigger 2"+ flares.
Anybody have recommendations on what I can run.
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A 4l60e barely fits, mostly due to the pan width at the bottom. Any reason that you want those extra two gears and extra weight?
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Where: Cary NC
Price: $250
I have an aluminum rear hatch louver assembly taken off my 280z.
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Tire to fender lip was getting contact, as was strut body to rim. The wheels are rota rkr 5 x 114.3, max I could get them in was -20 offset. I got one side pretty well fitted now. Have a cm of clearance between the tire and inner tub, and maybe 4mm between strut and rim. Tire tucks for the most part.
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Car is street and track days use. I'm running 17x9.5 -20mm offset rear wheels, 275/40 tire. I was getting contact on the wheel lip at about an inch of before hitting the inner wheel tub. I don't want fender flares, and to get them to tuck with this size I need to get them right next to the inner wheel tub. I have stock rear struts with coil over sleeves on them, so 3" diameter springs and 10" long. Right now the springs end right at the bottom of that pocket the strut goes in, which is also right where the wheel lip is about. Maybe a shorter spring would also help.
What length coilover springs do people run?
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I'm running a knuckle off a different vehicle so get to attach the strut to the top of it any way I want. I also plan on using a camber plate to slide the strut further inboard towards the diff, I have coilovers on the car so the diameter of the strut assembly is smaller. My main concern is the force being applied to the strut tower. It will place more force in the vertical plane, not sure if that matters though.
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Side to side when looking at the car from the back.
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Is there any negative effects of changing the angle on the mcpherson strut? I want to make my rear ones near vertical to make clearance for a wider wheel.
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Anyone know why they would put a heim joint in the circled location? It allows the hub to pivot up and down without the control arm moving.
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On 4/27/2020 at 7:08 PM, fusion said:
I did email ohmster many days ago and asked him to respond. I am surprised he chose not to.
I brought up these issues when I received my cradle. The response I got was:
"I'll ask the engineering team to revisit the cradle design, but as far as costumers are concerned, we have sold close to 50 kits of the standard (32 shipped), and 28 of the double wishbone (14 shipped) with 0 complaints besides powder-coating getting damaged, and/or hardware missing. Plus we are the only company that designed a rear differential subframe, and only company that designed a double wishbone set up in a car that never came with it. You could go with Z car depot that the front mounting tabs will bend and tear under high power loads or could go with T3s kit which was known to bend the front mounts and tear in a similar way as the Z car one."Which sounds to me like they don't care as long as people buy them. Worth noting, I've heard complaints that they didn't have any axles to ship with these kits until now, so most likely there has been no real road time with any of these kits yet.
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22 hours ago, zboi said:
There is the stock bushing on the front of the diff to the cradle, but then there is just a rubber bushing shoved in as a washer between the diff cover bolts to the mounting tab, which will not provide any dampening in the direction of torque.
I suggest you take the time to read what I wrote @tim.d
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There is no bushing where the front of the cradle attaches. There is only bushing on the mustache bar. Thus the cradle is half solid mounted half soft mounted. There is the stock bushing on the front of the diff to the cradle, but then there is just a rubber bushing shoved in as a washer between the diff cover bolts to the mounting tab, which will not provide any dampening in the direction of torque. They oddly kept the clamshell mounts on the front to bolt the cradle to the car, but without a bushing what is the point? A bushing will not fit in there as they made the cradle tubing so large. They should have just welded the clam to the cradle. These obvious flaws indicate that there was no "engineering" done when this was designed.
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The kit sucks, doesn't fit a 240z. Will only allow 275 tires in stock wheel well (for the fancy cantilever version). The bushings are done wrong and don't function. The company has the worst sales rep I have ever dealt with, been waiting a year to get all my stuff in, and I'm still waiting...
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Taking everything to the dump in another week. Speak up if now if your interested in anything before its gone.
Techno toy tuning rear big brake kit
in Parts for Sale
Posted · Edited by zboi
Location: Durham, NC
Price: $400 OBO
I have a partial techno toy tuning big rear brake kit for sale. It's all the custom parts of the kit (mounting bracket and rotors) as well as the hardware. You'll just need the off the shelf parts like the calipers and pads ~$370. I can provide the part numbers for them if desired.
These are new!