zboi
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Posts posted by zboi
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1 hour ago, Brad-ManQ45 said:
When you can get over 600 hp with a ported stock manifold I don't see getting an aftermarket one...particularly since Boone has done a before/after...
Who is Boone and where are the results? Stock turbo manifolds go for ~$400 these days, in questionable condition..
@Zetsaz Thanks for providing examples. Have they been driving their cars a lot, and for a couple years?
Doesn't sound like there are any other vendor offerings then. I have been leaning towards the NA manifold + crossover. Seems aftermarket only has long tube headers that merge too far back to be worth modifying.
Not really interested in intakes, though since you mention, I imagine the protunerz one with its significantly shorter looking runners would be really bad for these cars. A shame cause it would make fitting DBW throttle body easy. Milkfab one looks nice, maybe someone will buy it.
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I'm asking for people with experience with them guys, not some emotional crap. Yes everyone knows the head design sucks, yes people with lots of money buy it, but if anything someone shilling out big bucks on a l28 is not the ideal model for intelligent choices.
I will reiterate, I have asked actual people running protunerz manifold and have posted the actual findings. If you look at the photos of theirs you will see the turbo is literally millimeters from the brake distribution block, wheras the stock turbo manifold and CX one are much further away.
I would like actual experience from someone with CX or some other brands.
Also as you stated, any person with a brain would look at the L-series and think "why don't we put the exhaust/turbo on the other side?" Further enforcing that these people should not be held highly for design choices. -
Anyone running aftermarket turbo manifold?
I see the ones at protunerz and cx racing.Protunerz one is very poorly engineered, places turbo right next to intake and brake distribution block. Have found someone running it, confirmed brakes get boiled and on top of that it is full of cracks (not surprised seeing that 6 into 1 T3 junction).
CX racings manifold looks far better, but says it only works with their intake. Anyone try that or any other ones? -
You would need to get some external ignition box to do boost retard. Probably easiest to go 4 barrel intake and a factory blow thru carb.
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7 minutes ago, 72turboz said:
To be fair I destroyed the first crank in my block.
We talking snapped or just beating up the journals?
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Ok, so answer is yes... sort of. Stock injectors will do 275hp when fuel pressure is cranked to 80psi. Stock computer is crap but you can fiddle with the AFM spring to make it work. Ignition timing will be wonky due to vacuum advance seeing boost, but a check valve can be used to kinda mitigate this. Would be better with L28et components, but can be ghetto rigged on normal L28e.
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Is there any factory system that easily goes on these motors?
Seems like an LS system can be moved over, as you can change cylinder count to 6 in the tune (btw the newer model atlas 4.2s used the same ECU).
Would be kind of hilarious though buying an LS just to take off the harness, sensors, coils etc and leave behind the V8, but it is cheaper and superior to most aftermarket offerings.
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10 hours ago, NewZed said:
Kind of extreme from a guy who has no apparent experience building engines. I assume that you read something on the internet and absorbed it as your own. You were asking how to install a turbo just a few days ago.
Nothing wrong with questioning somebody's comment but if you're going to fake expertise try to do a better job. Better yet, just don't. And there's no need for the insulting tone.
Wow, I've built plenty of engines. I've built 1000 hp turbo LS motors. I've put out tuning guides even. Your the guy who posts a one word answer. I asked a simple question, are the injectors big enough and is the computer smart enough. Your the dude been insulting, and nothing is worse than a bunch of people throwing out a bunch of unfounded "buy this, upgrade that" crap. Show me an L series with a bent rod or broken crank.
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But really need to see those other lower boost runs, if shape of graph is changing then that will make it much easier to diagnose.
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People really need to stop with the whole build the bottom end up crap. We are talking about like 300hp people! No matter what you do you are never going to hurt the crank or rods. Were talking 50hp per piston/rod/crank journal. Don't throw money away!
That said your dyno results are interesting, your cam profile clearly seems to be aimed towards higher RPM yet your power falls off pretty quick. Do you have some more Dyno sheets with less boost? You should see power increasing pretty linearly across the board with each increase of boost. If power is increasing at the low end but not up top then there is a clear restriction. First try with exhaust off, if your lucky that will help. I think you may be running out of spark though.
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Yes it will be exactly like a normal gen V LS but with 2 less cylinders and a balance shaft. They are much rarer so harder to find cheap.
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I'm not seeing any heat shields in that picture. Were they taken off? The temps you posted look good, but where is the IAT sensor installed? Air temp could be much higher by the time it gets near/in the intake manifold.
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It is not possible for HP and TQ to remain the same as RPM increases. Dyno operator is doing something wrong.
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I take it they looked at rpm vs MPH to confirm clutch not slipping? Do you have an IAT sensor, or knock sensor? If your getting too hot or hitting knock then that is just all that motor can do. Be nice to see a picture of the motor. These engines with reverse-flow heads are real bad for heat soak, you'll want to try to minimize that as much as possible with header wrap, heat shields, CAI, turbo blanket, etc.
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Doesn't sound like valve float. Can you confirm that you noticed increased boost pressure when you cranked it up? The only way you are going to stop making power is when your clutch is slipping, you run out of fuel, or run out of turbo The more backpressure you have, the less you will be able to get from your turbo. If you were out of fuel that would be easily seen by climbing AF ratio.
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I guess I should be more technical. My only real concern is how well the stock system meters air. Is the stock AFM okay under boost?
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Looking for a camshaft that will fit an L28. Not looking to really spend any money though so hoping someone can be generous.
Located in Durham NC. -
I figure this has been done, but search feature wasn't working.
I am wondering what is needed to slap a small turbo on an L28. Can I just do that and not need to change injectors or computer? -
It seems the vintage air compact is popular so I'm leaning towards putting one in.
My question is about the air vent that the original blower sucks air in from the cowl through. Does the vintage air need to use this fresh air intake? Or do I block off that duct when I install aftermarket AC?
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I ordered a few carbon pieces off of here, and despite taking over 6 months to arrive (and still waiting on some) the quality is pretty poor.
First off the parts are not full carbon fiber, but instead fiberglass, with a top layer of carbon (maybe, it could be fake carbon). On top of that their is either a huge amount of resin on some of the parts, or some sort of clear plastic shell on the outside. As you can see along the edge of the part in the first picture, there is a few millimeters of void between the carbon fiber and the actual edge of the part. Seems unlikely that such a massive amount of resin would actually be used which is why I wonder if there is some plastic outer layer.
The weave is also all messed up, air bubbles, voids, surface imperfections, frayed fiberglass hairs extruding on all the cuts. I asked for a refund citing their "100% satisfaction guarantee no questions asked" and was told that they will not cancel my other half of my order and have not provided me any return number for what I have. There is a refund policy tab on their site with some very strict wording that contradicts the money back guarantee.
All that said buyer beware.
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I'm starting to lean towards doing 245/45R16 on all 4 corners. Now to see if I can get new spindles and rotor hats for the front and find a wheel with the right offset.
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I have a TR6060, Ford 8.8 with 3.55 in the back and a Detroit trutrac. Realistically the car will be mostly street. I would like to track it though. I don't forsee being able to do tire rotations any time soon as I have the stock 4 lugs up front with AZC brakes, and 5 lugs in the rear. I've been wondering if this is a good time to just change all the wheels to something lighter too.
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I run ultra high performance all season tires, nothing too fancy. I do spin the tires when the boost kicks in, but only if I try. My turbo spools pretty gently, it's a cheap cast impeller one. I'd consider the traction very satisfactory as is, I always think how much better it grips than my old 78 Camaro did.
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I'm having a dilemma. Right now I have 225/50R16 fronts and 275/40R17 rears. I have a turbo LS, maybe at 600-700hp.
The rears are 17x9.5 -20mm rota wheels, but now that I have changed my suspension, the offset looks kinda horrible. I think I would need more like +10mm offset to have them tuck correctly. That said rota doesn't make any wheel in that offset.
Do you think I should keep a 275mm tire in the back and find a wheel that works? Or go to a 245/45R16? I personally think 16 inch is the perfect size, although the 17 is ok with the high negative offset. All that said performance is my top priority, so if going down to 245 is going to be a noticable traction loss I'd rather not.
Factory EMS from modern cars
in Other EMS
Posted
Dug into this more. Seems all LS run ECUs can be set to 6 cylinder mode. Earlier ones only allowed for 6 or 8 cylinder mode, later 58x systems allow 0-8 cylinders.
Earlier ones had some potential advantages, such as cable throttle body, simple 1x cam sensor. LS1s came with long injectors that will go in aftermarket fuel rails.
The 24x wheel though is a strange 2 piece deal with unique toothing for the signal, which may be harder to fit.
58x systems are DBW with a normal 1 piece wheel with even spacing. But have an odd 4x cam sensor with custom spacings.
From what I can tell on 58x system is that the crank sensor should be set so TDC of the prior cylinder (1-6-5-4-3-2 on GMs) so TDC of 2 or 20 teeth on the wheel. I'm not sure what it is on the 24x system.