gmorrone1214

So I checked my grounds again, and the bottom circled one was not connected 😐. However, after connecting it as in the picture, to the top of the starter, still no start. I am however just getting a single click sound coming from the starter. It does not even sound as if the gear is sticking out. Also again verified not a battery problem since I jumped it directly from my truck battery. Maybe not having the ground connected and trying to run the starter damaged it and I need a new one?

Hello everyone, long story short my starter went bad and I replaced it with a new unit. However, when trying to start the vehicle there is only one single loud click (sounds as if the starter gear is moving out of the starter but it is not spinning the motor). I confirmed this by using a remote start and jumping the terminals, which results in the same issue, single loud click as if the starter gear is moving. I also took off the starter cleaned the areas with a wire wheel on a dremel, and cleaned up ground wire. Still same outcome. Then I tested the voltage at the battery when activating the starter and the volts stayed at 11.8-12.4 volts. I took the starter to autozone to check if it was functioning, which on their tester I witnessed the gear move out and spin freely 3 separate occasions. Threw it back in and still same result. Then checked to see if the engine was frozen for some reason (was driving car prior to this), and it spins over freely. Lost at what to do next....any help is appreciated, really trying to get this up and running with the new HY35 turbo.

Thank you, I appreciate the quick reply's. Not that many S130's up here in Alaska, nor S30. Debating on the manual or the power rack and pinion, I know that a lot of the power racks need rebuilds fairly often.

Hello everyone, I am trying to find out if a 240-280z manual rack and pinion with the cross-member will fit the S130. I want to replace the reciprocating power steering because it is leaking and I also need room for a bigger turbo upgrade. I know that the zx also had a manual R&P, but I just found a good deal on the 240z set and need to know if it will fit the zx.

Yes sir I have.

I acutally changed it using the proto area after posting that picture. So now the resistors sit in there with leads to the appropriate holes. Jumpers are as followed: VR Sensor: -VRIN to Tachselect -TSEL to VROUT Single High Output Coil -IGBTOUT to IGN -330r 1/4w res IGBTin and top of R26 Power -S12c to JS9(+12c)

About to start up the car this weekend, just have to finishing wiring the distributor and the fuel pump and then its good to go. May be a dumb question but wiring the distributor as per this diagram ----The 12v+(B/W): Guessing this is switched? I am using the relay board, so is there any slots I can plug it into or just find a random 12v switch wire?

How would I wire this to Megasquirt? The middle pin should be the signal wire, but how do I know which pin is the ground and the other power?

Just ran into a clearance problem that I do not see addressed in other forums. The way the steering is set up (outlined in red) there is no way that I can fit this hy35 holset in there. Is the swap that I need manual rack and pinion to make this fit? Did not think this was going to be a problem with the swap ugh 😤

Test it with a screwdriver (poke around at it) and see if it is completely rusted out structurally. If you can mig weld , or weld in general it isn't a hard fix. And if you dont want to patch fix it they also have complete floor boards and rails you can weld on.

Roger that. About to wire it up in the ZX and have chickenman help with the tune.

Delete please, got the part.

Just as an update I got the board firmware downloaded and hooked up to Tuner Studio. When using the megastim and moving the adjusters the corresponding gauges in the studio move, all besides the RPM (Well starts to then stops , says it needs to be calibrated). However none of my LED's on the Board or the megastim light up, is this normal? Also the board now has the motherboard along with R43 for High output coil.

Set up for single high output coil 82 turbo dizzy no PWM idle

Did you ever get the HY35 exhaust flange welded up and downpipe made? Currently looking to install the same setup in my vehicle.

Powered it with the battery and all is well. Checked the voltage according to the hardware manual and everything checks out. All that is left is installing the transistor for the single coil setup. Once I have the modifications done to the jumper wires I will upload a picture just to make sure that it is correct.

I was trying to do that step however I am not getting any power to PCB at all. With the 9v in the stim, I am not even getting a reading at the + terminal of the stim when it is connected to MS2 board. Ill just bench test it with a 12v battery and the 1amp fuse to the 28pin to see if the stim is the problem.

Okay ill make sure to do that once I get the resistor. So I went to test the board and I plug the stim in with a 9v and noting happens. I am not even getting any power readings at the stim. Isn't the stim not powered until connected to the board? If so even when connected I still do not have any power being drawn. I saw the stim manual on how to use it and it says I have to plug the other port into the computer and upload the firmware and studio, shouldn't I be able to just check for voltage without doing all of that? Only reason I ask is because my PC does not have a CD port on it, waiting for my laptop to arrive.

So my kit came with the BIP373 (Q16), it also came with BIP373 330o 1/4w, so i wont have to purchase the kit. Do I use the BIP373 330 1/4w at all? Instead of on the + wire from the VR sensor which leads to (DB37 pin24), where on the board would I solder the resistor? For what its worth thanks for your help, along with chickenman and everyone else.

Yeah Ill definitely contact you once I get it installed! So I should get the BIP373 coil driver. Should I also get the updated trigger wheel? And to build the board I should set it up as below correct? You said to use VR Conditioner So I would need to set the board as a VR Sensor instead of the Opt-in/Opt-out a) Solder a link between VRIN and TACHSELECT b) Solder a wire between VrOUT and TSEL With a small screwdriver, turn the pots, R52 and R56, about 12 turns anticlockwise (sometimes you may feel a "click" when the end position is reached, they can't be damaged by turning too far.) This sets them up for mostVR sensors.

You only need one 7 pin (or 8 pin) HEI module to use a VR dizzy with the V2.2 megasquirt. I did this setup in a few chevy TPI engines. The basics are the same, the dizzy used a VR sensor. The 7 pin HEI picks up that signal and sends a trigger signal to the megasquirt for rpm/tach. The megasquirt controls the 7 pin module to fire the coil. Look at this picture from the link that Matt gave for the 7 pin: ----Is this the setup I should be looking for with the distributor? However on the MS website they have this wiring diagram but there is no HEI is the wiring diagram even though it is for HEI. https://www.diyautotune.com/support/tech/install/nissan-datsun/megasquirt-your-280zx-turbo/ Wiring The input side of things will be the same as mobythevan’s setup– it’s the output side of things that will change. Here’s a diagram of how to wire it all up if you’re laying out your own wiring harness. This diagram assumes you are splicing the connector from the OEM Nissan wiring – color designations are for the Nissan wiring harness, notthe MegaSquirt wiring. ----Sorry, I am just a little confused on the ignition aspect of the MS.

Thanks chickenman for posting that link , I have been using http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm to assemble the board. Currently I am using the stock coil and ignition module from a 81 l28e with a 83 turbo distributor.

Hello everyone, I am a little confused on step 22 of assembly guide of the Megasquirt board. Talking about the ignition control module with MS2 Isnt the ignition control the sensor on the Distributor? I do not see any wiring diagrams for MS2 that show distributor, coil and igniter. So I am not sure on which connection to make on the board since : The ignition signal going to MegaSquirt-II to the DB37 pin 24, as usual. This is connected to pin 14 of the 40 pin socket (IRQ), and pin #1 of the MC9S12C32 processor. The signal from MegaSquirt-II™ to the module comes out on: Pin #17 of the 40 pin socket (labeled IGN), and is connected to the 5th hole of the JP1 header (pin 8 of the MC9S12C32). It MAY be connected to DB37 pin #30 with V2.2 main boards, if jumpered as recommended. Pin #36 on the DB37 (JS10 jumpered to IGN) for V3.0 main boards if not using the high current ignition driver circuit (HEI/EDIS/etc.), Pin #36 of the DB37 for V3.0 main boards (IGBTOUT jumpered to IGN) for V3.0 main boards if using the IGBT high current ignition driver circuit. Note: If you are not using the high-current circuit to directly control a coil, you likely need to to add a pull-up resistor (which allows the signal to go both high and low, rather than floating and low). Am i suppose to do the second bullet since it is a V3 board not using high current?

Yup, the resistance does not change.

From the Megamanual To hook up your throttle position sensor (TPS), disconnect the TPS, and use a digital multi-meter. Switch it to measure resistance. The resistance between two of the connections will stay the same when the throttle is moved If you read a high resistance which gets lower as you open the throttle, then disconnected wire is the one which goes to ground, the other one which had the continuous resistance goes to the +5 Vref from the MegaSquirt® EFI Controller, and the remaining wire is the TPS sense wire So I have a high resistance which gets lower as I open the throttle, however the other one does not have the continuous resistance. Instead it steadily increases when the throttle in opened.