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Everything posted by gmorrone1214

  1. Awsome swap! Looking to do this myself! What did did you do for the motor mounts and trans? Also what trans are you running?
  2. Nope, haven't touched it since I installed the turbo distributor for mega-squirt last year and set the timing. That's why I was mind blown, since I haven't messed with anything timing related.
  3. HA stupid and basic you say....well it was that simple. As stated above, its just crazy that the car was running perfect on the previous tooth angle which I set at 10deg with a 387 tooth angle with single high output coil setup....
  4. Problem Solved!! It was the timing. Went back and checked the timing, set tooth angle to 0 and car was at TDC 0 Deg. To get it to 10deg I now have a tooth angle of exactly 220. Turned over and started instantly! Man, am I relieved, thanks for all the help from everyone! Weird thing is the car was running on the previous tooth angle with no issues at all which is strange..... Well now time to start tuning for boost and pray I do not blow the engine 😁
  5. As per chickenman using the method to set inital timing to 10 deg using fixed timing and a timing light I had to go to 387 to get to tooth angle to 10 deg. Did this all last year and had the car running with these setting running 10lbs of boost (on that setup with high output single coil). As I stated the only thing changed was the ignition output. I mean is 387 bad? I will verify the timing tomorrow. I read somewhere that I may need a different type of timing light to wasted spark, is that true?
  6. Testing the outputs all of the coils spark in their respective channels. I then took all the spark plugs out and grounded them to make sure they were sparking on actual ignition events (read a post on the megasquirt forums someone had an issue where it would spark on testing output but not on ignition cycle) however, not the case. All spark plugs were firing. The VERY weird part was I had on plug in the cylinder head with 5 removed and was cranking it over.....well the vehicle actually turned over a ran for a split second ON ONE CYLINDER?! Craziest part is that the ignition coil (clinder 6) that I tested I just randomly put it into cylinder #4... which makes no sense on how the vehicle would turn over. I went over the outputs and everything is going to the respective cylinders. 1-6 A, 2-5 B and 3-4 C. I will post the attempts again, looks like the wideband is reading around ~10 when cranking which is super rich. However, I got it to read in the 13-14 and still would not turn over.
  7. I mean the car was running perfect before I switched to LS2 coils (Wasted Spark). Baseline tune was situated and had perfect startup (warmup) with a PWM idle valve. But I have not checked timing again since I originally set it and haven't touched anything with the settings. Not sure if I have to change any of the injector setting now due to the change to wasted spark.... Pulled plugs and replaced with a fresh set. Just tried to crank over, still having the same issue. Pulled the plugs and there was a little bit of gas on the end, nothing extreme (I mean I figured it may start allowing more air in, and still nothing) I have a wide-band, but no reading due to no start. https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B44ltrAZLqiAbGt4cWR2N2FUdU1RYjg0UHZiel8tS0ZlQmlz Video of spark
  8. Got it all wired up and am getting spark to all plugs. However, the car will not start. It is hiccuping and wants to start but wont turn over completly. Spark A 1-6, B 2-5, C 3-4. Posted my MSQ and start log as well. Not sure if it matters but the dizzy cap is on with no wires (this wont cause an issue right?) Any help would be appreciated. Wasted Spark - No Start.msl CurrentTune.msq
  9. Got the coils attached with a homemade bracket I fabbed up. Will fishing off wiring it through the relay board tomorrow and will post an update.
  10. Thanks for the Info. I went with the LS coils and installed using Logic spark output- FET driver method using the TC4427AEPA. I installed it all yesterday and used the stim to verify if the circuits were working. All verified to be producing outputs via to LED illuminating. Now its time for the fun part of in-cooperating it into my relay board wiring. So on the relay board S5 relates to pin 36 which is Spark A. Spark B and C however are SPR3 and SPR2. SPR 3 and SPR 2 are both ground wires on the relay board connector at pins 4 and 5. Would I be able to splice the wires coming from pin 4 and 5 from the relay board harness and wire them into Wire Pin 31 ( IAC2B, S4 on relay board) and wire pin 29 (IAC2A, S3 on relay board). Im trying to keep everything running through the relay board as to not have a rats nest of wires coming out of the DIY relay board harness. References are attached. Relay Board Schematic.pdf
  11. Does anyone happen to know about running LSx(1) coils, logical spark. I have read multiple threads and I cannot find a definite answer. Question is: Can I run Ls1 Coils, as wasted spark, without the 3 BIP, and run off the dizzy VR sensor? I believe the answer is yes and I would have to mod the board for logical spark output.
  12. Gollum, question for you on your build. I have been trying to find the answer with COP LSx coils being ran off of MS2 V3. I could run this in a wasted spark output still using the distributor to obtain the timing correct? I would also need to wire in 3 BIP 373 also?
  13. LMK if you are going to cut some of these flanges. I am also looking to do a custom intake manifold.
  14. Just installed the new BIP373, car fired right up. Not sure as to why the BIP373 burned out. It did look as if a part of the mica where the bolt goes through was ripped a little and was then burned on the heatsink where the rip was.
  15. Post a log of cranking and idle. Also, I do not see it in your post but did you set the timing under fixed prior to using the table? Also your VE table values do not look like they may be helping since near idle vac the difference in values are around 10 which will cause the wideband to jump. Post a log so we can see your idle and be able to help more accurately.
  16. So my build I used the relay board and did not wire directly to the DB37 main harness. However, I actually had to separate the tach wire grounds (pin 1 and 2) from the sensor grounds on pin 17 or 18 cant remember which I used. Reason being I was getting noise introduced into TPS sensor from the ground of the TACH. It was so bad that it was always activating my AE. However, I was using the relay board and from that wiring diagram, the relay board does route them to pin 1-2 but rather with all the sensors (TPS, CLT, IAT), causing issues.
  17. So my build I used the relay board and did not wire directly to the DB37 main harness. However, I actually had to separate the tach wire grounds (pin 1 and 2) from the sensor grounds on pin 17 or 18 cant remember which I used. Reason being I was getting noise introduced into TPS sensor from the ground of the TACH. However, I was using the relay board and from that wiring diagram it did not route them to pin 1-2 but rather with all the sensors, causing issues. But yes the grounds all go back to the board, they just have different pins to use to separate low from high voltage proximity.
  18. Just posting an update and also an issue 😑. "Had" the car running on the build from this thread but also added PWM IAC (TIP120) to the board as well, which was amazing for idle tuning. Car was running on the board build for the past 4 months and I finally got my water/meth installed and was starting to tune for boost with the HY35 turbo setup. Now out of no where I am getting a really weak spark from the coil to distributor. Color is orange and blue sometimes, very erratic, super weak(have to hold it really tight to a ground), and will not travel to a spark plug end. I checked the coil resistance and that checked out. I also used the test mode in tuner studio and it fires the coil but the spark is super weak. I also put a test light on the neg coil while testing and it doesn't dim on/off, reading the volts they drop but does not fully ground out. Thoughts may be the bip373? Is there a way to check if it is fully functional (ohms reading). I thought they were pretty bulletproof? I read a bunch of threads also about it grounding out on the heatsink. I pulled off the bip373 and double checked for burs. It is mica insulated with the metal screw and insert. I ordered another bip373 already assuming that may be the issue. Any thoughts or advice moving forward?
  19. Did you ever fix this issue? Kinda getting the same problem. Have spark to the distributor but not to the plugs. Can has been running for the past months and now just out of no where I only get spark to the distributor cap. MS2 V3 L28et.
  20. How would I go about this? I checked the FSM and it just showed how to test the plugs not the cap.
  21. Hopefully someone can give me some insight to the current issue I am having. Running L28et, MS2 V3, relay board, single High output coil, 280zx distributor. BLUF: All of a sudden getting no spark to the plugs. I also get spark from the coil to the distributor (grounded the cable to the engine block and there is a continuous spark, but I cannot get any spark to any of the plug wires) My guess is the distributor cap itself. Can you test the distributor cap for continuity? I am not getting any readings from the center post to any of the spark plug wires. The wires are reading fine. Do the distributor caps just go bad? Any guidance or help is appreciated!
  22. You were right, it was the 12v cable to the starter itself that was bad. I checked it again this time with a test light and it was not coming on at the 12v at the starter. However, my multi-meter was reading 12v there.... Replaced it and now works like a charm
  23. I am going to try and do the relay mod as above because there is no way that the wiring is wrong. I have had the car driving over the past 2 years and have not changed anything with the wiring besides megasquirt, which I wired up and have been running in the car for over a year. That other red wire goes to the megasquirt board, with the other yellow one as the engine ground.
  24. So I decided to test the starter again off the car. I hooked up the ground the the starter and then placed the positive on the solenoid switch, which just resulted in the gear pushing out and not spinning. Then I hooked up the positive of the battery to the positive side of the starter and used a screwdriver to bridge onto the solenoid, which resulted in the starter motor spinning. Verified that it still worked, so I hooked it back up to the flywheel. Here comes the strange part. So with it attached normally as above in the photos, I cannot get the starter to spin. I tired to just just the positive terminal with the solenoid, which results in nothing happening at all, no sparks or engaging of the starter. I thought maybe no power is going to the positive side of the terminal. Nope 12.2 volts at the positive terminal of the starter. Just to be safe I used a dremel polishing disk and cleaned up the connectors. However, I got the starter to spin the motor over! But there is only one way I can get it to do that. I have to hook up a jumper cable from my truck battery to the positive side of the starter and then jumper it to the starter solenoid (i didn't touch the jumper cable when doing this). I have no idea how to fix this problem since it shows the volts at the starter, and when using the ignition to turn over the engine all I get is a single click, however I know the starter motor will work...
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