240zdan

Its definetley the coil packs. They stock Nissan coil packs fail after 20+years and short out to the engine block. You can usually see this by removing the coil cover and going for a good drive at night, pull over in a dark spot and you will see the coils arc. I personally went with splitfires as I found a set used for cheap. No more issues since. I also vented my coil cover. I think LS coils would be fine heatwise or even brand new OEM nissan coils woudl last a while. I haven't researched the cheap yellow coilpacks on ebay.

Either way you do it, wont turn out pretty. Youll have to run the hose through the interior of the car losing your trunk space. Im not sure what kind of fuel cell will fit in your spare tire well. Cutting out the well is pretty much unavoidable. Me personally, I would try to install a RX7 tank or Jeep tank. Or make a custom aluminum tank with the fuel fill on the side outside of the vehicle. Stay away from those top fill cheap "fuel cells", only install a certified fuel cell if you're running a track that requires it. http://lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion_files/240Z_Conversion_Fuel_System.htm

Running a .82. The GTX3576r is a great turbo, and it really needs the .82 to let that compressor wheel do its job. The GTX compressor wheel really only is more efficient at higher pressure ratios, and at the pressure ratios it becomes efficent a .63 will be choking it slightly. The GTX will not spool faster than a standard cast wheel of the same size. In fact I found it spools even slower. Parts of the reason Garret came out with the GTX3576R is because the GTX 76mm wheel is more suited to a GT35 turbine since its ability to flow so much air at higher PRs is there. The GTX3071R is the one to get if youre looking to make lower power but quicker spool. Both GTX3582 and GTX3076 are not a good choice IMO. I prefer to run larger ar turbine housings and play with the compressor wheel size to determine my spool/ability to make topend power. Right now I am running a PTE 5830 with .82AR. I have tried the PTE 6235r, PTE 5830r, GTX3582R, and GTX 3576R. The GTX 3576R destroyed the 3582r in every way possible and just felt way better. The GTX wheels work really good at higher boost but I found alot more response with a standard 6 blade splitter wheel, especially at lower sub 20psi boost levels. All turbos were running .82AR and the current one is a 5830r with .82 which spools very very quickly and doesnt die up top (~450hp) Another turbo to consider is the SPA, using a 7 blade wheel which offers very nice response. The PTE has shifted to 7 blades now IIRC as well. EFR turbos are 7 blade, along with most newer OEM Holsets. Tells you something. This is on a 2.6L RB but I really think it would apply to the L series as well. Leave the .63 for the honda guys. Drive pressure is never a good thing on our motors and is a band aid fix for quicker spool. You want a free flowing exhaust housing/turbine wheel for your displacement and the smallest yet most efficient compressor wheel for your power goals for the ultimate package. Just remember you cont compare a 58/76mm 11 blade gtx to a 58/76 7 or 6 blade. The design is completley different and the GTX wont spool the same as say a 6 or 7 blade yet make more power from my opinion/experience. In the end, dont expect the 11 blade GTX to work any magic on your motor, it has one purpose and that is to be efficient at HIGH boost. This is why EVO guys love them. Combined with E85 they have a potent turbo in a small package. Its also a very very quiet charger. Might be a good thing if youre into stealth. All said and done the GTX wheel design was originally made for an OE diesel application where high efficiency at high PRs and noise was a concern, keep that in mind when spending the 3k on one.

100% agree with this. Seeing as the OP has gone with a lift pump tp force fuel into the walbro, and the lift pump now has a prefilter, I suspect he will have a reliable and robust fuel system. Some may hate the hassle of running two pumps, but if you want to keep your tank OEM and unmodified its the only way to go. A walbro inline with low micron paper fram that has to pull UP on top of that is a big nono. these walbros almost need a boost on the inlet to work the way they should.

yeah that setup is nice. Keeps the pump surrounded with fuel and helps with cooling too. Less space required as well. Ideally if I had my spare tire well Id have mounted the carter externally to the frame rail and that surge tank/pump inside the spare tire well. I pondered the idea of installing this but the external walbro inline works well for me and was a cheaper option.

Very NICE! Just gota make an aluminum cover for it and dynamit it really well to keep noise out. My carter I can barely hear but the walbro does whine a bit. That fuel system will do very well with autox/slick tires and will help to ease the load on the walbro. Post pics of the completed install. You may have to relocate the top fitting to the side to make everything clear? Youll be happy with it in the end. Those walbros just arent meant to draw fuel up from the tank and need a little help from a low psi high volume pump like the carter which is a workhorse, then I find they work extremely well. One issue I see though will be fuel filter maintenance. When you remove the fuel filter you will have tons of fuel spilling in your spare tire well. It may be a good idea to install the filter outside of the vehicle. Alternatively you could install a union fitting between the fuel filter and tank outside of the vehicle and drain the fuel from your surge system that way before removing and inspecting the filter. I try to clean mine every few months or so and always find a bit of junk in there. One more thign I forgot to mention is make sure the fuel return line going from surge tank back into tank is large and unrestricted. You want the fuel to be able to escape back into the tank from the surge tank with as little restriction to promotote fresh fuel entering it from the carter. This will help keep fuel temps in the surge tank under control. A fuel tank with 1/3 or higher helps alot too.

Thanks. I spent a while researching and designing it. So far I am very happy. I can slide the car, brake hard, accelerate, all with the tank on E on rs3 tires pushing it to the limits and zero pump surge. One of the best mods I did to the car. If I had to put slicks on the car and go on a road course the fuel system woudl be the last thing on my mind. I know its up to the task. To answer your question: Yes the lift pump pulls fuel out of the main tank and circulates it through the surge tank. Since the lift pump is designed to pull fuel up it does the magority of the work. The carter floods the surge tank. Additionally the excess fuel from the efi system returns back to the surge tank. This means means the surge tank is ALWAYS full (if not under slight pressure). That means the walbro is forced to take in fuel from the inlet. It runs quiet, consistent, and draws less amps. It doesnt matter how hard you corner, the 4l tank is walys ready to give the walbro what it needs since it has two sources, the carter and the return from the efi. If the efi pump fails, the motor will not start/run. If the carter pump fails, the efi pump will suck the surge tank dry until it runs out of fuel. Neither is likely to blow the motor. I much prefer a setup like this to a sump/fuel cell as it retains factory fuel tank/fuel fill/fuel guage. It has been dead reliable since the day I installed it, and I swear my walbro is 3x quieter, even under heat.

Absolutley zero problems with mine. OP you shoudl consider what I did. You dont need to hack up your floor you could probably get away with installing the stuff in ur spare tirewell. Then your fuel system will be rock solid and surge free! http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/124196-my-custom-fuel-setup/ I used this type of prefilter http://pitstopusa.com/i-22954486-edelbrock-replacement-fuel-filter-blue-anodized-aluminum.html I do not remeber the microns, but from my reseach you cannot go to small as the inlet of the walbro needs FLOW. You only want to keep major contamination out at best. If you restrict the inlet with a paper filter you will get major cavitation (from my experience) and thats why you are losing pressure. A tank clean may be a good idea as well though. If you're passing rust through your fuel system your filters/pump and injectors will all eventually clog.

Holy crap. All the poor guy has to do is put a screen mesh type prefilter from edelbrock or aeromotive (which I have been running for years, my walbros lasted my 8 years and still going) so he can enjoy his car. You guys should start your own thread and argue there.

Carter 4594 works well as a lift pump to get the walbro the fuel flow it needs. I have one on my car feeding into a 4l surge tank, then a walbro picks fuel out of the surge tank. Its an extremely effective setup and I get no fuel starvation under high Gs even with an empty tank. I agree with ditching the prefilter all together. Shouldn't need one in this scenario. You definetley want-8 inlet, and try to ditch any bends in the lines/fittings if you can.

Is there any paticular reason you want the fuel cell? I originally installed a RCI "fuel cell" into my car, only to remove it and put the stock tank back in along with a surge tank and two pumps. You could easil fit a surge tank in the spare tire location and cover it with a piece of aluminum. This way you dont have to hack up your floor and you will have a fuel system that will work under extreme Gs.

nice project. what type of "fuel cell" are you putting in the car, and will it fill from the factory location?

thats not right, walbros do whine when they get loud but your fuel pressure dropping to zero means theres an obstruction on the inlet/outlet somewhere, or perhaps a voltage loss? need to do more diag EDIT: I just watched your video. That clear prefilter is definetley causing it. You need a mesh screen type prefilter. No paper or brass. Try to minimize the fittings with bends and run the largest line you can to it.

its a steal. buy it whether you plan on restoring it or not

I have my limiter set to 7600 and hit it occasionally, but avoid it if possible. I usually rev to 7000 as my turbo (gt30r) runs out of steam above that. 500hp is easily doable with 7000-7200rpms on a RB.