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carguyinok

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About carguyinok

  • Birthday 01/27/1972

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  1. I have a cherry picker style engine lift & the chain hoist that I can hang from a beam inside the shop. I can say they bolth have their place with ease of a job. The roll around floor unit is very nice for pulling a motor and getting it moved around once it's out. But then again the chain hoist is very nice for the final install and getting things lined up. I say this because you have nothing on the floor around the car. So that frees up alot of working space. Then again with a chain hoist alone you would need ta push the car in and out place. Plus you then need the room to move the car from under the motor. If you go chain hoist make sure you have a beam that can take it!!!!! I have seen that go wrong before. Just think of the damage that could happen if that beam lets go. If your lucky no one gets hurt or killed. But your ride could look like a monster truck just drove over the front of your car along with the motor damage from the fall. Also, I have found with my 240Zs... You need the front of the car jacked up for the legs of the picker too get under the Z. The car just sits too low for most of the units I have used for the job. With that your going VERY high with the motor for clearing the front end. So keep your lifting chains on the motor short or you could find yourself in a bind. If it was me I would go chain hoist.... You can hang it and leave it with the chains tied up. No space needed for storage. Plus then you have a mini crane for getting heavy items in and outa truck beds. I even use mine for loading motorcycles into trucks so..... Hope it helps and good luck.
  2. Well, after a few phone calls I have found that the Hooker mounts are still out there. Bad news is they must be made of gold and silver @ almost $250.00 ......................
  3. Thank you all. I had plans for going with the turbo 350. But, now it looks like the project is getting the turbo 400. I have a feeling that I am looking for the Scarab motor mounts, hooker, or I am just going to end up building my own mounts. Between the cutting of the hood latch and just how much trans tunnel work the 400 will cause I will keep it forward. I know it's not alot of work on eather job. But once I start cutting into the car any plans I had for going back stock are out the window. I may never go back stock with this car. I cant say 100% yes or no on that. But I do know it's a very nice choice that I would like to have. See I also own a 73 240Z & thats my true V8 240Z. With plans for a full tube subframe and ground up build. But, the 72 I am working on was just for a fun summer toy this year. I had a fresh L28 stroker motor from the 73. I put that motor in my 72 just this last week. After a few hot laps in our parking lot I found that it had a bad headgasket. But not untill it had wipped out the cam and put alot of metal into the whole motor. So now I am just going with the sbc swap on this one because I have almost everything that I need. But rather then pumping all my HP parts and money into this one I just want to get it done as a fun driver for now. Then I can get back on track with the 73. Once thats done I have a feeling that it would be nice having a stock 240Z parked with her at the shop. But if I cut this one up that wont happen so....... I hope this helps some of you understand why I am doing what I am. Sure, it may sound silly for some. But it's the road I have picked. Like I have said this ones just for some fun times and having a driver for the summer. But one that can also get back in stock shape without alot of work.
  4. I maybe new here on this site and also new with doing my 1st SBC 240Z swap at this time. But I am also very far from new with custom cars and high HP rides. Not that he needs it.... But I would 2nd EVERYTHING Paul just said. I could only think of one add that could help you with your goals. Whats your own background on past projects? Also, what are your friends into for projects? I ask this because I think you should stick with what you know and what your friends are working with. Bolth for what you and your friends know and the resorce's you all may have for parts and helping hands. Myself, I am have always been a GM guy. Corvettes and street rods have always been in my life. Now I can also say the same for the 240Z. My friends are also into American HP. Most of them are GM and some Ford and a few Dodge guys. So, with that I have real people that I can lean on for advice, hands on help, and a good deal on a part here and there. So I am going SBC 350 on my Z. I have ALOT of friends that are in love with the project and helping in anyway they can. If I was going with the import style swap I would be lost. I would also be spending ALOT more money and not have near the help I do now. Now, thats for me. If I was into imports and thats what my friends are working with then I would take that road. Thats just my .02 on how you can get you project DONE not just started. Hope it helps you.
  5. Thank you for the time JT1. I have been doing searchs here and they are all plugged up with postings that have nothing too do with what I was asking or looking for. I love the site and have found the people here very helpful. I just cant say the same for the search...... So, it's all over the header and how you are looking to run your exhaust? I could care in the least about the exhaust headers and the route they take. I make my own headers and can run them damn near anyplace I please with just a few small changes. For me I am looking at keeping this car as pure as I can. I say this because I am looking at going back with the L28 and stock 4 speed at some point. So if I can keep from cutting and notching on the car I would go that way. I dont mind getting a longer driveshaft made. I just wanted to make sure that the car can still handle the curves without alot of work at the wheel. The motor going in is nothing more then a stock 74 350 with fresh internals a mild cam and 4 bbl carb. I am not looking for 14 mile records or a road racer. Just a fun little driver thats gona have some get-up n go when I ask for it. Thank you again for your time and help. I will try another search and keep my fingers crossed. If anyone has a link or two I would be VERY thankful for that. By the way JT1, I love the movie 2nd hand loins it's a classic IMO.
  6. Sounds crude lol. I think I will end up cutting and building a box on that part. But dose the dent you made get in the way of the seat inside? I think it would still be aways forward of that but thought I woud ask.
  7. Thats what I was wondering about. I wasnt sure if it would throw it off that much or not. Now I see I was thinking correct with where the motor would sit by how your balancer is over the rack. That was my guess of where it would end up after mocking it up. Nice job, how did you deal with the transmission clearance on the shifting linkage? After looking it over tonight I think thats about my only real issue with setting it back. Other then that it looks rather cut n dry.
  8. OK, people I have a 72 240Z that I am doing a SBC swap with. I also happen to have an extra empty 350 block for my mock-up work. I did bolt an oilpan on the block so I could see just where things would be. I only wish I had an empty transmission case.... That's a heavy part for playing with. So, tonight I started with just the raw block with oilpan and the stock motor mount plates for the 350. I set the 350 mounts over the Z frame rail mounts and let the motor rest on those points up front. Then took a strap and hooked it around the hood latch for holding up the back. This also let me raise and lower the rear as I wish. I was very shocked at just how close it was with just doing this. Then after some playing around and looking I pushed the transmission under and got it bolted onto the block. Now as I looked over the info on the JTR kit and parts they talk about set back plates. I dont understand why you would go back. The only reason I could thinkof was for fan clearance. But, If I was to bring the whole package forward just 1" or 2" It would clear up many more of my headaches. One thing that would do is put the tail of my transmission within reach of building a mount that could use the stock trans mount of the Z. It would also help me with clearance for the shift linkage on the transmission and the trans tunnel on the Z. If you look at the underside shot you can see the linkage touching the tunnel. Now keep in mind the whole package will raise another good 1-2" with motor mounts on. So pushing it back would only make it worse. Also, going forward would give me clearance for keeping my stock hood latch. Now I have plans on electric fans for cooling and an electric water pump aswell. So I do have the room for pulling it forward the 1-2" I just mounted a stock waterpump so I would have alittle gauge for now. Anyway, Would this be throwing off balance? Or are there other reasons for setting the motor back vs. forward. I am not looking for a 1/4 mile car here. Just a fun street car. Thank you for the time.
  9. My 72 240Z that I picked up about 2 weeks ago now. 99% rust free. This is how I found it sitting. The PO's kid pulled the side trim and had tossed body filler in the holes. Then he spray painted the whole car blue. After I sanded the filler and paint off her I put a coat of flat black on her till I can pick a color. This is my 73 240 that I have been sitting on since 02. She looks solid but the front frame rails are gone. So now I have been waiting ta go with a tube subframe and a SBC swap.
  10. OK, so I had just come across one of the cleanest 240Zs I had seen in years!!!! She had a locked up L28 under the hood and I just happened to be sitting on a L28 stroker motor. So I made a deal and took the car home about two weeks ago. Well after taking my sweet ass time installing my stroker motor I fired it up for the first time tonight. Lets just say I was less then a happy camper when I found out that my L28 stroker had a bad headgasket:shock: Now I also had been collecting parts for my 73 240Z v8 project for the last few years. So, now knowing that I dont have a good L28 the new 72 is getting done ASAP with the parts I have set aside for the 73. I was going for a custom tube frame on the 73 because of front frame rail rust. But with money tight and a rust free 240Z sitting in front of me I thought what the hell I have the parts. Why not!!!!! I have a short turbo 350 transmission with a 350 SBC for the project. I would say that I have about 85-90% of the parts I need for getting this thing done. About the only thing I am missing at this point is mounts. Bolth for the motor and the transmission. One thought I have is going with a front motor plate. But rather then jumpping in and making the order I felt I should ask here first. Is the plate a good choice? Or should I be looking at mounts? Eather way I was planing on going solid mount. But dose one make it an easier install over the other? Also, what about the transmission mount? Thank you in advance. O-yah, I almost forgot. No I am not new at doing this kind of thing and playing with custom stuff. I am a part of a hot rod shop and custom shop here in Miami OK. We have taken over an old Chevy dealership here in town and we have been going strong for many years now. My last build was a 1940 pont. that I called a race rod. This is how I found my 72 240Z a few weeks ago. The PO's kid thought he could pop the side trim off the car and toss body filler in the holes. Then he painted the car with blue spraypaint. Yes, it's rust free. After I put alittle time in getting his paint and filler off the car I shot it with flat black untill I can pick a good color. I also installed some seats thinking I had a good stroker motor going in. Yes, we do know about the drag strip aswell. Running mid 9's all motor. We also do alittle fiberglass work. I hope you can tell from the projects we have done in the past that this Z will be a fun little car once we get going on her. Again thank you in advance for the help. Also, please feel free and ask for help on anything you think we could do so with. Later People.
  11. I cant tell you for pounds. But know my 73 240 is just a shell sitting in my shop and I can lift up the front or rear of the car alone and move it from one side too another. I would say well under 500lbs for mine. But then again it's a 240. 280's do have a few more pounds. But I cant see it being that much more in shell form.
  12. Here are some links from CZCC that may help you. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=31464&highlight=SU+turbo http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22581&highlight=carb+forced+induction
  13. Sorry it took me a few days. I didnt have any help yet. So just putting the tape on the floor and eyeballing it I came up with about 62" from outer hub-outer hub. I should have some help later tonight and get you a dead on number. I will go over it good later tonight. I will get the size of the mounting cage, distance between mounts, and how deep it would need too sit.
  14. OK, so here are the real Wire wheels that I found the car sitting on. I have my bean mags on her for now
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