demon

It's a 2 pinion clutch-type LSD, definitely not CV's!

I recently acquired a 4.11 R180 LSD differential which apparently came from a Japanese vehicle of some sort. The halfshafts required however seem to be some sort of weird snap-ring type - I already had the "old" type R180 shafts as well as the R200 snap-ring type but neither fit. Anyone have any idea what these are and where I can get some? Someone has suggested they may be from a 200SX. Thanks in advance...

Ron! Yea, I sold it I have something super secret in the works! Well not really, but it should be done this week then I'll show you all

*sheds a tear* Hopefully my replacement for it will do the job

My SR20 powered Z using a 75 7" brake booster and an '81 master cylinder has a strange condition occuring. When there is no vaccum to the booster (car is off) the pedal is fairly stiff and the brakes work correctly. When I start the car and there is good vaccum (~-20mm/hg) the pedal goes straight to the floor and does nothing. Any ideas? Thanks in advance.

Hence the last sentence of my post... "Any info appreciated, car is for strict track duty only." Just for reference, I found out from Autopower that the two are completely different - the U-Weld kit is *not* legal for SCCA/NASA competition, while the full cage is.

Apologies if this has already been answered, searched as much as possible and found no answer. I currently have an Autopower bolt-in rollbar which I have not yet installed - http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60170&Category_Code=AP170 My question is, does anyone know if the "U-Weld Rollcage Kit ( http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=60170C&Category_Code=AP170 ) " when welded to the above mentioned Rollbar results in the equivalent of the full bolt-in rollcage they offer ( http://www.ioportracing.com/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=83170&Category_Code=AP170 ), or are they completely different pieces and would it benefit me to simply purchase the full rollcage? Any info appreciated, car is for strict track duty only.

Hah! That's pretty much accurate What I can safely say though is that of all the fabricators I have used over the years John's work is second to none. There is probably not a single other person in the world who I would rather have work on my car from a quality and care standpoint - his work has been top notch for me and I can do nothing more than recommend him wholeheartedly. With regards to Dave @ Arizona Z car - he has been incredibely supportive and helpful many months since I bought his parts. I purchased his Wilwood brake kit, solid diff mount, and aluminum radiator and have to say they are all superb quality parts and Dave has been exceptionally helpful throughout. Sure you can probably piece this stuff together for alot less money, but knowing its actually put together by someone who tests and has used this stuff in this application is well worth the added cost in my opinion. Erik Messley recommended the Koni double adjustable shocks to me with his caster/camber plates. Again, this setup is not particularly cheap and probably unnecessary for a mostly street car. When I first began my SR20 260Z project it was a "street/track car", then it was a "track/street car" and now is strictly a track car. I don't believe its possible to reach an acceptable compromise and it's definitely something worth thinking about before you even think about doing any mods. Of course having another car or two will help if you intend to do what I did.

Thanks Ron! The biggest reason I went with this is due to the weight saving - I think the entire dash with gauges in must weigh around 30-40lbs less than the stock piece. I am hoping to get the car in at under 2000lbs

Apart from the engine, turbo, transmission, ecu, suspension, brakes, fuel cell, rollcage, and paint...I guess our cars are pretty similar

There are some pics of the fiberglass dash here: http://www.fototime.com/inv/8AEEF3372087EF3 Here's a teaser...

Yea, what Ron said! I had a limited amount of time given my bodyshop situation, but was warned ahead of time. Having said that, any competent bodyshop would have been able to perform the same work and it now looks superb. I didn't mean to come off as degrading in my previous post if that is what prompted this one! I'll have some pics for you guys this evening, hopefully with most of my gauges installed!

Mine was white when it arrived - I had my bodyshop tidy it up (it was VERY rough) and spray it satin black, along with my zg flares and euro-style bumpers. I'll also post some other pictures of my gauge and switchpanel layout when I get a chance.

I'll have some pictures of my fiberglass dash up probably tommorow (Friday) - just got it back from the bodyshop all nicely finished and painted. I have so many parts my head is going to explode

It's Electron Blue from the Corvette Z06.

SR20 you say? http://www.fototime.com/inv/53AADE7048A7A61

JohnC will have to chime in here as I didn't trust my welding enough to do this myself. I believe it was a collaborative effort between John and Erik (Messley, who recommended my setup). Sorry to hear about your problems!

Just so you know, I am using CCW's (17x10 rear, 17x9 front) with sectioned struts, GC Coilovers, EMI Racing camber plates, and Koni 8610 shocks and do not have any such clearance problems. On not-quite-the-highest ride height setting using 10" 175lb springs there is a good 1/2"+ clearance from the fender. I left it this way and managed to roll the car to the bodyshop with not a hint of rubbing. There's also probably another inch worth of height I could increase if I could get my hand in there properly Just my $0.02, but higher spring rates are probably not the correct answer to your problem.

SHHHHHH!!

OR you could take a grinder to the gland nut while the assembly is in place and end up taking a chunk out of the shock shaft and having to buy a new shock... ...but John's way sounds a bit more intelligent

John (at CCW) is a great guy and very diligent with his customers. I recieved my 17x10/9 a couple of weeks ago and was actually planning on selling them, but decided to increase the quality of my shock selection rather than sacrifice my wheel selection. I am sure you will be very happy with them!

This is what I use: http://www.arizonazcar.com/radiator.html It's top quality, huge, and very light...couldn't ask for more