demon

Maybe I'll actually get to drive this one huh

Car is kinda for sale again (if I get the right price!): http://classifieds.hybridz.org/showproduct.php?product=1938&cat=8&page=1

Right click, save as...

Hi guys, listed it in the classifieds section. I've become swamped with work, moved office and house and generally don't see myself having time to do anything with the Z anytime soon. Accepting offers over $20k Pics: http://www.fototime.com/inv/359168BE0F63EC6 Classified link: http://hybridz.org/nuke/modules.php?op=modload&name=zClassifieds&file=detail&cat=52&de=705 Email: amir@ggl.com

Are these the same sizes as the 8610 series shocks? I have a set of these on the Z right now but would be very curious to see if the double adjustable 8611's are physically the same dimensions.

Nah, just fishing to see what the market is like...I always say the car is for sale at the right price

Don't know if any of you guys have been to one of these, but it's the 6th year of the annual Socal Sports Car Meet hosted by my good friend Mani. More info on the link below, it would be cool to have a nice Z turn out! http://www.socalsportscars.com/viewtopic.php?p=18#18

Actually I am well versed with the JGTC and have been watching it this year quite alot...not on Speed btw. The Skyline (which has now been replaced by the 350Z in the JGTC) actually ran a VQ33DET which is a destroked turbo version of the VQ35 found in the G35 and 350Z. The SR20DET's they run in GT300 class have EXTREME valvetrain modifications - by extreme i mean redrilling the head to accept a shim/bucket arrangement, using a CA18 camshaft and a ton of other stuff. There is basically nothing even close to stock about the SR valvetrain in those cars. I don't believe the Skyline has ever run the RB26 in JGTC (but I could be mistaken), much like the Supra used the 4 cylinder 3SGTE for weight and balance. FYI, the Supra now uses a 5.3L V8 with a rear mounted transmission in JGTC. Comparing a near-stock RB26 with any JGTC engine is really not appropriate.

A few comments...firstly, the Skyline that was at Buttonwillow was the Signal/Tanabe car brought in directly from Japan. The driver was pseudo-famous JGTC/D1 driver Tarzan Yamada. These guys definitely know what they were doing and the car was set up EXTREMELY well. Unfortunately though the RB26 powered cars seem to have a poor rate of atrition at the racetrack as I have never seen one complete any kind of event in one piece. RB Motoring/Sean Morris had their R32 Skyline there too which suffered rod knock immediately upon starting the car and didn't even make it a lap. That isn't to say the RB isnt a great engine - it is - but I do agree with John in saying that the RB/SR motors are somewhat mythical in their reliable power output. Coming from the Supra world I am all too familiar with the 2JZ legends that are floating around - none of these engines are without SERIOUS problems. If I could do it all again I would probably use a CA18DET - this is an amazing little engine. It's basically a 4 cylinder version of the RB26 with an iron block (weighs less than the SR's aluminum...), great head design and valvetrain, and extremely robust with massive rpm potential. The SR's head design is so shambolic that any time I approach 7000rpm I become afraid of rocker arms flying out. Incidentially though Erik Messley just got done setting up my car and weighing it in the process. With a full tank of gas (15 gallon cell) the car weighed 2150lbs. I would almost certainly go with an RB26 if it wasnt for the 250+lb weight penalty it would give me. Currently I have some offers on the SR20 and will switch to a CA18 if it makes any sense.

I am in need of a Koni 8610-1149 shock as used frequently by Erik Messley. I nicked one of mine with a grinder, lost a replacement, and now the car is waiting for alignment with a potentially blown shock. Koni is 2 weeks out on a replacement, I am hoping that someone can overnight me their shock and I will replace when stocks are available. Thanks in advance!

How would you recommend doing this? I am assuming that shimming it is sub-optimal.

I'm with you but I suggested the 280 hubs to Dave who disregarded them. Apparently grinding off the control arm is in his instructions for the brake kit (which I have, of course, lost) so I can only assume that several people have also done this OR are just unaware that it is in fact the control arm-rotor that is rubbing (it took me and John a while to figure it out).

Well I just spoke with Dave at Arizona Z Car and showed him the above picture - he basically said that any part of the control arm outboard of the balljoint is extraneous and can be ground down. I am a *little* concerned about doing this but he seems to have sold quite a few of these and used them himself which provides SOME reassurance. Any ideas?

I'm running Arizona Z Car's wilwood front and rear brake kit. I am also using 3/4" bumpsteer spacers in the front. At certain limits of steering the control arm is touching the rotor as seen by the groove in the picture below. Has anyone else had this problem? I have ground as much as I am comfortable grinding from the lip of the control arm...the only other solution I could see would be to shim the hat -> hub mount but that doesn't seem particularly safe to me. Any ideas? [/img]

Actually I am...the turbo builds boost quite early and you can feel it has plenty of room even at redline which comes very very quickly (I have already hit the limiter a bunch of times by accident!). Remains to be seen how it feels on the track, but I can't see myself being below 5000rpm much of the time!

I am considering doing something a little different (cant say what that is yet!), but odds are I will end up keeping the setup. The guy who ended up using "Buy it now" emailed me 1 minute later asking me to cancel his bid

That's the idea...who knows WHAT will happen between now and April '05

After a year of blood, sweat, tears, massive expenditure, and all around frustration the "ZR20" is finished! (well, almost...) I'd like to thank in no particular order the following people for helping make the car what it has become: John Coffey for his advice, fabrication, and all around goodguy-ness...betamotorsports.com for fabrication! Needless to say this car would not even be close to finished without his help. Ian Sweeney for his support, shop access, advice, tools and parts...fusion-racing.com for all your parts! Without Ian's help there is also no chance that I would have finished this project at all. Wayne @ Phase 2 Motortrend - best SR20/240SX specialist by far, and an overall nice guy. Always makes me feel comfortable when a vendor tells me that a) I am stupid, and I shouldn't buy that part Mani Jayasinghe for continued advice and help throughout the project. Dave @ Arizona Z Car for his support and help months after buying his parts. Perry @ Weddle Autobody in Whittier, CA for doing tons of stuff to the car without hesitation or even invoicing me! Best bodyshop around! Erik Messley for constantly suggesting something new that put my project back a few months and hopefully setting up the suspension this coming week! Without further ado, here are the pictures:

10-8-03 --- CHEVRON, 100 S. GLENOAKS BLVD., BURBANK Son of a bitch! This is where I fill up with gas 90% of the time as it is next to where I work. Can we sue them or something?

I've got a set of 200SX arms & axles' date=' but they are snap ring style CVs that went with the R180. Interesting.[/quote'] Hmm, it's possible that it was in fact intended for CV's. So far the best solution is to machine a groove into my old set of R180 halfshafts to accept a snap-ring and tap and block off the hole that is currently there for the bolt holding the halfshaft to the diff. It's entirely possible that a set of halfshafts for this differential in a Z car do not currently exist!