montyz81

So. I got the car running, but the tach doesn’t work When I hook up the ignition coil, what do I do to keep the tachometer working? Connecting the factory wiring along with the megasquirt coil wires causes problems. The spark plugs seem to fire at the wrong time. Without the factory wiring hooked up, the engine seems to run smooth. What do I need to do to get the tach working again. Thank you for any advise you can give me.

All, I am installing a megasquirt system in my 81 turbo (has an 82 engine in it). When I hook up the ignition coil, what do I do to keep the tachometer working? Connecting the factory wiring Along with the megasquirt coil wires causes problems. The spark plugs seem to fire at the wrong time. Without the factory wiring hooked up, the engine seems to run smooth. What do I need to do to get the tach working again. Thank you for any advise you can give me.

Anybody? I want to make sure I don’t fry anything attached to the original wiring Loom or the new Megasquirt system.

All, I am installing a megasquirt system in my 81 turbo (has an 82 engine in it). When I hook up the ignition coil, do I keep the factory wires hooked up along with the the new MS wiring? I’m assuming I need to in order to keep the tachometer working. thank you for your help.

I think I am right behind you.

I did call JWT and they told me to take out the dropping resistor. I did and it is now running much better. Sorry for my ignorance, but what is BOV?

SO I found out that the dropping resistor block on the 1981 Turbo is not needed on the 1982. The car runs much better and has power mostly through the power ban. I am still having a hard time starting the car. I have a new fuel pump on the car, but now I am suspecting it is either Fuel Pressure Regulator or Fuel Dampener. Can someone tell me how to test each of these? Would I have to test the fuel pressure before and after the FPR? It looks difficult to do after the FPR.

I have an 81Zt now with a rebuilt 82Zt engine and 5 Speed recently installed. The car idles horribly and runs much better under load with some hesitation. I have been trying to troubleshoot the lumpy idle and am starting to think I might have some corrosion in the wiring. I have checked requisite sensors included in the idle control circuit and so far they all check out. I have run a smoke test and the vacuum checks out. I can pull the plug off the CHTS and the idle speed will pick up immediately and the engine will run smooth (just installed a brand new CHTS). The car has been running with a